Tuesday, February 20, 2024

How- to Make Double Fold Bias Tape Video Tutorial


Follow this video tutorial to make your own double fold bias tape for a perfect handmade seam finish. Learn what fabric to use for bias tape, how-to find the bias of your fabric, and how to make your own 1/2" double fold bias tape with common sewing tools, no gadgets needed. This technique is perfect for making the short lengths of bias tape required for bag sewing, and is used in the Wholecloth Patterns Fairmount Bag

Why make your own bias tape?

Bias bound seams are a durable and professional looking finish for bag sewing. They are also a great way to add character to your bag and continue the exterior color scheme on the interior of the bag. 

What is the best fabric for making bias tape?

Light weight woven cotton such as shirting, lawn, batiste or quilting cotton is best fabric for making bias tape. Finished bias tape has 4 layers of fabric, these light weight fabrics maintain a low profile when applied to a finished seam. Avoid heavy or bulky fabrics that will result in a bulky finished seam. Use a fabric like cotton that holds a crisp crease when ironed. You'll want your bias tape to hold its shape when you work with it, and a crisp fold will make 

In the video I use this light weight cotton hand block printed fabric from Indian Stores on Etsy. It coordinates nicely with this hand block print from the same shop. 

Tools for making bias tape.

To make your own double fold bias tape you'll need a ruler, scissors, a fabric marker and in iron. These are all basic tools you probably already have in your sewing kit. There are bias tape making gadgets, that you may want to try if you're making yards of bias tape for quilt or garment sewing, but for this tutorial we'll focus on the low tech way to make it yourself. It's perfect for the small quantities of bais tape used for bag making. 

The bias bound seam finish is used on the
 Wholecloth Patterns Fairmount Bag. 

Friday, February 16, 2024

Bag Making: New Wholecloth Patterns Fairmount Bag Sewing Pattern

The new
sewing pattern is available in the shop!

The Fairmount Bag sewing pattern provides complete print at home PDF pattern pieces and full illustrated instructions for sewing your own crescent shaped bag. The adjustable strap allows it to be worn cross body as a sling bag, or on one shoulder as a hobo bag. It has a full length top zipper for easy access to the large interior. The arched sides follow the curve of the body. The pleated bottom panel creates a subtle wedge shape to minimize bulk, and maximize cargo. View A has piping along the bottom curve to define the shape, and a fully lined interior with a zip pocket. View B features quilted side panels to define the shape, and a quilted interior with a split open pocket. Both views have bias bound interior seams for a complete finish and a wide adjustable strap. 

The sewing pattern includes:
- clear step by step illustrated instructions
- PDF pattern to print and assemble at home using your home printer 
- instruction to sew 2 views of Wholecloth Fairmount Bag
- instructions to make coordinating bias binding, piping, and strap, or you can substitute ready-made
- instructions in inches and centimeters

Finished Bag Dimensions: 13 x 6 1/2 x 3 1/2 in (33 x 16.5 x 9 cm)

Get the pattern:

Exterior:
The exterior of View A (left) has piping around the curved edge to define the crescent shape. View B (right) uses a quilted body to maintain that curve. Both views have a full top zipper, 1 1/2" self made strap (substitute webbing), a pleated bottom panel, an optional key ring loop.

Interior: 
View A (left) has a full lining and an interior zipper pocket. View B (right) has an open pocket. You can easily use both pocket styles on either bag. Both views have bias bound edges so your bag looks good inside and out. 

Supplies: 
The Fairmount Bag top zipper measures 13". You can either shorten a longer zipper or use 14" (13 inches of zipper plus the seam allowance) of zipper tape. You'll find a full video tutorial for shortening a metal zipper on the Wholecloth Patterns Youtube channel. The pattern includes instructions of making your own custom piping, bias binding, strap, and ring loop. You can easily substitute similar quantities of ready made. 

Difficulty: 
The Fairmount Bag is a good fit for intermediate sewists. It involves 2 ways to insert a zipper, applying bias binding along a curve, precision stitching where the straps meet the bag, and sewing through many layers of fabric at the (optional) key ring loop. That said, a determined sewist with a few patterns under their belt could take it one step at a time. 

Sewalong: 
I'm planning a full video sewalong making the Fairmount bag from start to finish. The tutorial will make this pattern more accessible to less experienced sewists. Sign up for the newsletter to be notified of the final dates for the sewalong. 
The Fairmount Bag sewing pattern is 20% off until Friday, February 23, 2024. No code necessary.




Monday, February 12, 2024

Sewing Tutorial : How-to Shorten a Metal Zipper

In the Wholecloth Patterns How-to Shorten a Metal Zipper video tutorial we'll cover the parts of a zipper, widths of zippers, lengths of zippers, and finally how to pull out some teeth, replace the top zipper stops and shorten that zipper in a way that looks as good as new. You can find the full youtube tutorial for shortening a metal zipper here. Below I'll give you the run down of the tools and supplies I used in the video. 

Where to Buy Metal Zippers for Bag Making.

Etsy has a great selection of shops selling zippers of every type. It's an easy place to shop for a specific length or color from many different stores. 

Zip It on Etsy. - Zip It has a large inventory of sizes, lengths, tape colors and metal finishes to choose from. Their shop is well organized so it's easy to sort for the zipper you're looking for. Good price for the quality, fast shipping and prompt customer service. 

Zipper Stop  - More great metal zipper options. The 14 inch #5 zippers I use in the tutorial video are from Zipper Stop. They also have prompt customer service and put together a custom color combo for me.  Zipper Stop is also on Etsy.

Wawak - Wawak has a good selection of metal zippers and (in my experience) fast shipping. 

Where to Buy Loose Zipper Stops

The little nubs above the teeth on the open end of a zipper are called the top zipper stops (see the video for full zipper anatomy). They prevent the slider  from coming off the zipper when it's fully closed. Replacing the stops on a shortened zipper makes it look brand new, and maintains its durability. The Etsy store Zipper Stop also sells zipper stops. I bought mine on Amazon for the free shipping. Be sure to buy the same size stops (see video for zipper sizing) as your zipper.  

Where to Buy Needle Nose Pliers

You can find needle nosed pliers at almost any big, or small, box hardware store. After borrowing the pliers from my husband's tool box for years, I finally upgraded to my own mini pair of needle nosed pliers. I've removed zipper teeth with regular pliers before, but it's much easier to precisely remove one tiny metal tooth at a time with pliers with a very narrow tip. I got mine as a set from Amazon. I'm pretty sure these are the pair I was borrowing from my husband. Mine are 5" in total length, very similar to these, these and these

Why Shorten a Zipper

Shorten zippers makes your sewing more efficient. The Wholecloth Patterns Tether Pouch requires 9 zippers to make a full set. It can be hard to find one shop with 3 different lengths of matching zippers in stock, or they aren't sold in sets of 3. It creates a lot of flexibility to buy longer zippers and cut them to the size needed for the pouches. The Wholecloth Patterns Fairmount Bag (coming soon!) uses a 13" top zipper. One way to achieve that size is to buy a 14" (or longer) zipper and shorten it to 13". 



Saturday, December 9, 2023

How-to Add a Lining to the Wholecloth Project Bag


Today we're going to hack the Wholecloth Project Bag sewing pattern by learning how-to add a lining to the bag. I love the simplicity of making a bento bag from a single piece for fabric, but it does take a little extra time to finish the hem, and seam allowances to perfection. Giving the Project Bag a full lining creates a fully reversible bag. It also makes finishing the bag even easier. If you're a new sewist, this is a great place to start with Wholecloth Patterns. 

The video tutorial of this pattern variation is a bonus track to the Wholecloth Project Bag sewalong. After learning how to sew a thoughtfully finished bag, we use the pattern as a base to mix up the finishing.

Get the sewing pattern:

Join the mailing list:

Watch the Sewalong Playlist:

Share what you've made!







 

Wednesday, December 6, 2023

Learn to Sew a Wholecloth Project Bag with the Sewalong Video Sewing Tutorial

Are you sewing a Wholecloth Project Bag? You've come to the right place. Below you'll find video tutorials for the Wholecloth Project Bag Sewalong, were I'll teach you how to sew a bento bag with clear video instructions. The sewalong is broken up into 3 easy to follow sections. The first is a short overview to familiarize yourself with the design and plan your bag. The second tackles the pdf sewing pattern pieces. I'll walk you through the process of turning the digital pdf file into a physical pattern, and cutting out the fabric. The third is sewing the actual bag. Each video section includes a list of related links to any noteworthy tools or fabrics. This is a quick sew, and beginner friendly project. The videos will make it accessible to even more sewists. You'll have a set of all 4 sizes by sun down (or sun up depending on what kind of sewist you are!).

Thanks to everyone who followed along with the Wholecloth Project Bag sewalong through the newsletter. I appreciate your attention at this bonkers time of year! If you're sewing a Wholecloth Project bag please use the hashtags to share your work. I would love to see what you make! If you'd like first notice of future Wholecloth Patterns sewalongs and new pattern releases join the email list.  

Get the sewing pattern:

Join the mailing list:

Watch the Sewalong Playlist:

Share what you've made!

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Day 1:  pattern overview, size comparison and fabric recommendations

Notes on Fabric:
You can use just about any woven fabric to make a Wholecloth Project Bag. I go over a few of my favorites in the video, but don't limit yourself to my picks. This quick project is great for experimentation. A crisp new yard and a half (1.5 meters) of 43in/109cm wide fabric will make a whole set of bags. Don't prewash it, you'll need the full width for the extra large bag, and won't want to loose any to shrinkage. A few of the fabrics I said were Essex Linen in the video are cotton/linen Andover Fabrics. This is a very similar fabric and great for bags. 

Day 1 Video Links:

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Day 2: print and assemble the pdf, trace the size we'll make, draft our own pattern and cut the fabric
Notes of Tools:
You'll need a few basic household tools to assemble the pdf. I like to cut the margins from the pdf with plain old scissors and assemble it with plain old tape. I always trace the size I'm going to make (rather than cut the print out) onto architectural tracing paper. It's durable, easy to pin, and inexpensive. The only down side is that you can't iron it. I also used it to draft the pattern in the video. A see-thru ruler is handy when tracing or drafting the pattern. 

Notes on Drafting Instructions:
Most versions of the pattern include a chart and diagram with the dimensions to draft your own pattern on page 2. If your pattern does not have them I would be happy to send you an updated version. Please send an email to wholeclothpatterns@gmail.com and include the Etsy username you used to purchase the pattern. All other information is the same. The drafted sizes are the same as the printed pattern pieces. 

Day 2 Video Links:

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Day 3: We'll sew a Wholecloth Project Bag from start to finish!

Day 3 Video Links:





Thursday, May 4, 2023

3 Ways to Wear the Tauko Magazine Aurora Wrap Dress

 


Tauko Mazine Issue No. 7 is out now. This is the Aurora Wrap Dress sewing pattern designed by Abby Huston (@abby_sews). I was given my choice of an advanced copy of one of the 12 designs in issue 7.  I jumped at the chance to sew the Aurora because I knew it would be versatile in any season. 

The Aurora is an apron style wrap dress that overlaps in the back and the strings wrap around the waist to tie in the front or back. There is a bust dart, thin shoulder straps, and front patch pockets. The flexible fit of the wrap style allows you to wear most any layer under the dress from tanks to tees to button up shirts. The apron front is full coverage allowing you to wear it on its own as a sundress. 

I'm wearing the Aurora with a Fibre Mood Norma Blouse here. I love the puffed sleeves with this silhouette. The fabric of the blouse is very thing and semi sheer. I usually wear it with a cami underneath, but the apron front serves the same purpose. 

I can't remember what size I sewed and have already managed to misplace the pattern pieces. But I do remember that I used the darts for the next size down. It's a pretty easy style to paper fit the darts before you cut the fabric. And by that I mean, hold the pattern piece up to your body and compare the darts to your actual bust. I ended up shortening the straps a few inches (a very easy alteration) to get the darts at the proper height. Next time I would lower the waist tie (might still lower it on this dress) and the pockets about 1" to compensate for raising the bodice a bit. My only major alteration was to add a good 6" to the length. The original design hits at about knee length. There was one small error in the length of the back facing, it was easy to fix on my own, but check the errata on the website for guideance.

This design has full coverage in the front so you can wear it as a stand alone sundress. The minimalist styling adds to the carefree summer scenario playing out in my head. I imagine throwing this on after the beach or pool so we can have a drink or run some errands on the walk home. Or, tossing a few beers into these enormous pockets to sip while we bbq out back. 

The fabric is a lightweight cotton blend from my stash. It's fine, and seemed like it would have a decent drape, but it's a bit more stiff than I envisioned. A midweight linen would be perfect for this style. Something with a bit of texture for interest, and a little swish when you walk. 

When I first put this dress on, I had that put on an apron and get stuff done feeling. This is a more practical everyday outfit for groceries, school pick up, and getting stuff done. I'm wearing the Aurora with Penny Socks, and a new Rio Ringer Tee (pattern from True Bias). 

You can order Issue 7 of Tauko Magazine from their website, or find a list of brick and mortar stockiest. The magazine comes with with large format printed pattern sheets. If you order online you also have the choice of adding digital copies of the pattern pieces. I received my copy of this pattern for free, but my thoughts are sincere.




Wednesday, December 21, 2022

Black Linen Matched Set with Ashton Top

It's celebration season. What are you wearing? 

I'll be wearing sneakers, elastic waist pants, and...pearls?! If relaxed sophistication is a look, then that's the target I'm shooting for. The pieces are black linen full length pants, a delicate linen button up, and matching black vest. Accessorized with smooth pearl jewelry and a nubby sherpa fleece bag. Mixed textures, and tailoring held together with a severe black and white palette. 

Maybe I'm sporting a fancy gym teacher vibe, but this outfit is in it for the long haul. 

The Pants: This my standard self-drafted pattern that I have made more than 15 times. FIFTEEN! And, they never let me down. They are pretty much perfect for holiday parties. They're relaxed and still put together, with an elastic waist so I can eat all the cookies, and generous pockets so I can take a couple home. Relevant to no-one but me, I lifted the rise by 1/2", and went with a full length, rather than cropped. I'm gonna say they're perfect now, but I don't want to limit their evolution. The fabric is a linen blend from Joann, purchased for expediency alone. It's nothing remarkable as a textile, but has a good balance of body and swish for these pieces. 

The Top: This is the Ashton Top from Helen's Closet. I made this top when I was on a bit of a matched set kick this summer. By the time I finished it was full on fall and I needed another layer. Luckily, the Ashton Top is roomy enough to wear as a vest. I don't remember what size a sewed, but I do remember that I raised the arm opening a bit. The Ashton is a rock solid woven tank pattern. I've tried a few others and like the fit and construction of this one the best. It's sewn up in a matching matching linen blend from Joann.

The Button Up: This is the Archer Button Up from Grainline Studio. You can read about it here. It's a closet staple and a pattern I've sewn 5 or 6 times. 

The Bag: This is the size large Tether Pouch. It's my favorite size for going out without kids (and sippy cups, and toys, and crayons). It fits all of my essentials. I used a few scraps of Michael Miller Organic Sherpa Fleece. I'm not entirely sure you can still buy this fabric, I've seen a lot of listings like this one. It's a low pile, fine textured cotton fleece that is thin enough to sew the zippers as usual. I did round the corners a little more than specified to decrease bulk. It's a knit, so I did fuse it with mid-weight interfacing for rigidity and structure.