Thursday, November 18, 2021

Tutorial: Quilted Logan Bag

My intention with the simplicity of the Logan Bag sewing pattern design is that it is easy to customize. I have too many pattern hacks and custom fabrics in mind for one woman, but this one made it to the top of my to-do list. The rectangular front pocket panel is just asking to be chopped up and put back together with pretty scraps. I'm not much of a quilter (yet?!), but I thought I'd share my process and the template to make your own quilted Logan Bag. There are templates for both the Mini and Standard sizes. The one I'm showing here is Standard, it's just the right size for bigger knitting projects, and I have a sweater on my list for winter knitting. 
I made a few test quilt blocks with scrap fabric before settling on the final fabric. I used a denim from my stash that is dark on the right side, and light on the wrong side. I used the wrong side to make the contrasting lighter pieces. I made a sandwich of the denim, a single layer of cotton quilt batting for a little loft, and fusible interfacing for structure. The whole bag is quilted with simple lines 1" apart. After making the quilted additions to the exterior I just sewed the pattern as written. It's a simple way to customize the Logan Bag. You will need the full Logan Bag pattern to do this pattern hack. Tutorial instructions are in a handy pdf you can store with your Logan Bag pattern. 

The quilted pocket design is a play on the classic flying geese quilt block, and inspired by the stacked triangle texture of the Fragment Scarf. It brings making full circle to carry knitting in a homemade bag inspired by knitting! 

I've made up a few more Hardware & Supply kits for Christmas giving. To sweeten your holiday making, I'm offering free US shipping on the Hardware & Supply Kit while the current inventory lasts. The pattern and kit would be a lovely holiday gift for your sewing bestie, or sew one up for a knitting friend.
Get the tutorial here:
Get the full pattern here:
Get the kit here:

Consider this your quilted Logan Bag starting point. Let the creativity flow. As always, I would love to see where this pattern takes you. Share your finished bags using the hashtags #wholeclothloganbag & #wholeclothpatterns. Be sure to tag me @_wholecloth.

 



Saturday, November 13, 2021

Handmade Fall Layers

I made some pants, and I really like them. I actually have a lot to say about these pants. They're self-drafted, but I think I'll leave all of that for a topic specific post. Today, I'm just going to go over the specifics of this outfit, and ease myself back into outfit posts. 
The pants are the newest garment I've sewn. I wanted some pull on tapered pants. I had two different strategies for creating them. The approach I took with these pants was to taper my self-drafted wide leg pants pattern. It was the easiest way to get to the end result, and I'm pretty happy with them. I used the Dani Pants leg lining it up just below the hip where the leg widths were the same and used that to taper the leg. I usually do a 26" inseam when I make these with wide legs, but added 1" for this version. I also added a few inches for a fold up cuffed hem. 

I've been sewing this self-drafted pattern since 2015. This is probably my 10th or 11th pair including shorts versions. You can read more about the drafting process here. The time and effort I put into drafting my own has definitely paid off.
I've been tinkering with a couple different approaches to pull on tapered pants. After a few iterations I learned for my own experience and basted the pants together, before cutting the pockets, to check the fit before I went all in with the finish. It would be a real bummer to serge up the sides only to discover my feet don't fit though the leg openings. That didn't actually happen, but I'm beginning to anticipate failure, and learn from mistakes. 

The fabric is Robert Kaufman14 wale corduroy in Rust from fabric. com. It'slovely fabric. I love, love, LOVE the color. I've been searching for nail polish this color all through the fall, but pants work just as well.  I was a little worried the nappy fabric would attract lint, but so far that concern seems unfounded. The are wearing very well. 

I'm wearing them with my Hilary Top, pattern by Tessuti Fabrics, that I've blogged before. This fabric goes with everything and nothing and works well with the color of these pants. 

The sweater is the one off (actually 2), no pattern, version of the kids' Passing Showers Tee. I won't share much about this as I still have the best intentions of sharing more about  making this size at some point, but don't feel like figuring it out not. 

Not gonna lie, wearing 3 handmade piece has me feeling pretty proud of myself. Wearing 2 pieces of my own design has me feeling so smug I can barely stand to be in the same room with myself. It's got volume, it's got texture, it's mixed media. What's not to love? I could, and probably should, feign humility, but this outfit makes me feel like a million bucks. 

Outfit Details:
Pants Pattern: Self-drafted some details here
Pants Fabric: Robert Kaufman 14 Wale Corduroy in Rust from Fabric. com

Shirt Pattern: Hilary Top by Tessuti Fabrics
Shirt Fabric: Block Print Cotton from Etsy
Shirt Details: Here

Sweater Pattern: My own
Sweater Yarn: O-wool Balance color Natural

Friday, October 15, 2021

Bag Making: How-to Tie the Fisherman's Knot

The Logan Bag is a drawstring bucket backpack with a continuous cord that closes the top opening of the bag and acts as the shoulder straps. Using the fisherman's knot to fasten the ends of the drawstring makes the shoulder straps adjustable.  



There is no one right way to tie the knot, and any knot that holds the ends of the string together will do just fine. But, I thought I'd share the fisherman's knot. It's my favorite knot for the Logan bag. After trying a few different knots, fancy and plain, I settled on this one as working best for me. 

I like the fisherman's knot for two reasons. First, it allows you to adjust the length of the shoulder straps.  Moving the knots a few inches lets you to wear the bag comfortably in many different ways. I usually lengthen mine to wear the bag across my body, but make them as short as possible to wear it on one shoulder. I can make this change on the move with this simple knot.  I also like it's low profile. It's basically two simple overhand knots, that are less bulky than a single know. The smaller knots naturally follow the pull of the drawstring. Even with the thick rope of the Standard Logan Bag the two small knots blend into the design of the bag. Of course, you'll want to trim final length of the drawstring to fit your body and preference.

Below you'll find a handy video tutorial that shows the adjustable straps in action, and how to tie the fisherman's knot. I've also got step by step photographs if pausing a video isn't your thing. I'm using the same drawstring that comes in the Hardware & Supply Kit for the Mini Logan Bag. 




How-to Tie the Fisherman's Knot

This image is really the key to the fisherman's knot. It is basically two overhand knots tied around the opposite string. 


When the knots are tightened you can pull the knots away from each other to shorten the loop of rope. 


Or pull the the strings to lengthen. 

Logan Bag Sewing Pattern
Head on over to the Wholecloth Patterns store to get your copy of the Logan Bag sewing pattern. 

Get the pattern!


The Logan Bag Hardware and Supply Kit has all the hardware, installation tools, and notions you'll need (including the drawstring) to make either the Standard or Mini Logan Bag. 

Get the kit!
















Wednesday, September 29, 2021

Bag Making: Logan Bag Hardware & Supply Kit

The Logan Bag drawstring bucket backpack has quite the list of hardware and supplies. There is a snap front pocket,  zippered interior pocket, and eyelets along the opening. It's got a drawstring closure, and optional self made piping around the bottom. Heavy duty fusible stabilizer helps keep the shape of the base. I chose components that are easily sourced from craft shops and online suppliers, but you might not be able to find everything at one store. To make sewing your Logan Bag even easier, I've assembled a kit for one stop Logan Bag hardware and supply shopping. The components were selected with ease of installation and professional finish in mind. 

Wholecloth Patterns Logan Bag drawstring bucket backpack sewing pattern

Standard Contents: 
2 heavy duty snaps (1 extra for practice)
1 snap tool
7” zipper
10 extra large eyelets 
1 eyelet tool
10” square of stabilizer
⅜” drawstring  
01 Piping Filler Cord

Wholecloth Patterns Logan bag drawstring bucket backpack sewing pattern
Mini Contents: 
2 heavy duty snaps (1 extra for practice)
1 snap tool
5” zipper
12 large  eyelets (2 extra for practice)
1 eyelet tool
6” square of stabilizer
1/4” drawstring 
00 Piping Filler Cord


The specialty tools needed to install the snaps and eyelets are included in the kit. A few common household and sewing tools are also necessary. You will need to have a hammer to install the hardware, x-acto knife to make the eyelet openings, a cutting mat or wood block to cut and hammer on, tailor's chalk for marking the placement of the hardware, a piping foot or zipper foot to make your own piping, and a heavy duty needle (such as 110/18 or 100/16) to make sewing through many layers of heavy duty fabric possible. It's also nice, but not mandatory, to have clips for holding thick fabrics together that might be difficult with pins. 

Get yours now!


Don't forget the discount!
The Logan Bag sewing pattern is 15% off until Friday, October 1st. Use the code LOGAN15 at checkout to get the launch week discount!

Get yours now!





Saturday, September 25, 2021

Bag Making: Introducing the Logan Bag Sewing Pattern



The new
sewing pattern is now available in the shop!

The Logan Bag

The Wholecloth Logan Bag is a drawstring bucket backpack. It has an easy access snap pocket at the front and a secure zipper pocket on the inside. There is a drawstring closure. The bag can be worn in many ways from backpack to cross body. The pattern come with two sizes of bag. The Standard size is designed to hold everything you need for a day out and about. The Mini will hold all the essentials like your wallet, phone and keys. 

The sewing pattern comes with 2 sizes of print at home PDF pattern, and clear step by step illustrated instructions for creating your bag. This pattern is written for heavy weight fabrics. We recommend 10 oz. canvas or similar. Lighter fabric can be used with the addition of medium weight interfacing. 

The pattern includes:
- step by step illustrated instructions
- print at home and assemble pdf pattern pieces 
- dimensions to draft your own pattern pieces 
- pattern and instruction to sew 2 different sizes of Wholecloth Logan bag.

Finished Bag Dimensions:
Standard: 10"x20"
Mini: 6"x12"

I've been working on this pattern little by little for most of the year. The benefit of the extended time in pattern development is that I've been road testing my bag for months. I love the hands-free convenience of wearing a backpack, and the reach-in accessibility of the drawstring top. It's a great everyday style. 

The bags shown here are made with 10oz cotton canvas. I didn't prewash it to maintain the stiffness of the new fabric. The rigid fabric, and a reinforced base, allow the bag to stand up for easy access, or working as a portable knitting basket. Lighter fabrics will have more slouch, and I recommend reinforcing them with medium weight fusible interfacing for the best result. The blocked construction of the exterior lends itself to highlighting a special print, or color blocking, or even a quilt square (stay tuned!). There are so many possibilities for customizing this bag. 


Logan Bag Hardware & Supplies

This bag calls for quite a bit of specific hardware and supplies. You can buy all of it at a craft store or online, but to make it as easy as possible to get behind the sewing machine I've put together a kit. The Hardware & Supply kit is one stop shopping for all the bits and pieces necessary to sew a Logan Bag

I'll be talking more about the kits later in the week. They are in the shop, and the quantity is limited, so get your Hardware & Supply Kit now!


Logan Bag Pattern Discount
Of course, there is a launch week discount. Use the coupon code LOGAN15 for 15% off the Logan Bag sewing pattern until October 1st. 
Get yours now!

I would love to see where you take this bag (physically  and aesthetically). Share you Logan Bag on Instagram with #wholeclothloganbag & #wholeclothpatterns. And tag me @_wholecloth.





Sunday, August 8, 2021

SweetKM is now Wholecloth Patterns!

A new name for a new creative phase. I have felt the urge to grow for some time, but the name SweetKM was holding me back. It was a reflection of where I once was, but not of where I want to go. After wrestling with new names for a few months (okay, years!), I've decided to double down on a pattern name I really love, the Wholecloth Project Bag. Once the lightbulb turned on, the decision was simple. The name of my pattern line, website, and overall creative presence going forward will be Wholecloth Patterns!

What's ahead for Wholecloth Patterns: Moving forward I will be focusing on bag sewing patterns with simple lines, thoughtful details, and lots of potential for customization. To kick off this transition I've got a new bag sewing pattern in the works! Follow @_wholecloth on Instagram for sneak peaks, and as usual, you'll hear about any new patterns first as an email subscriber

What's ahead for the Wholecloth Blog: While I have been spending more time designing, and testing new bag and accessory sewing patterns, I will continue to do outfit posts here. Making my own clothing fuels my creative process, and I love to make and share. 

What's ahead for the Wholecloth Project Bag: A few growing pains are bound to creep into any transitional process. You may have noticed I changed the name of the Wholecloth Bento Bag to the Wholecloth Project Bag. I want to be genuine in all my interactions online and in person. The Japanese inspired name, that felt like a tribute when I first published the pattern,  was not a true reflection of me. It did lead me to the point where I would grow, change, and move forward. It's still the same great pattern, only the name has changed to be a better reflection of myself and my brand. 

I love to see what you've made, please use the hashtag #wholeclothprojectbag going forward and feel free to retag your previous makes. You can tag old and new projects with #wholeclothpatterns!

New blog:
www.wholeclothpatterns.com


Emailing List Signup:

Buy the namesake pattern!





 

Friday, May 7, 2021

Short, Shorter, Shortest: 3 Cropped Mandy Boat Tees


Looking for the most bang for my very limited sewing time, I made a trio of the Tessuti Fabrics Mandy Boat Tee. The Mandy is a super simple knit top with perfectly relaxed proportions. The swingy body, snug arms, and collarbone sweeping neckline make it my wardrobe refresh garment of the moment.  There are 2 sleeve lengths included in this FREE! pattern. I made size 2 (small/medium) for all 3 tops.   I added 1" to the 3/4 length option. The prescribed hem length is around hip length. I cropped mine at 3 different lengths to in search of my crop top ideal with high waisted pants. 

Short
Let's start with the short (which is actually the longest) top. This exercise was meant to be a bit of a length experiment. I knew I wanted cropped tees, but I wasn't quite sure how cropped. I was hedging my bets with the first top and cropped it 5". I pinned up this version to test drive the shorter lengths. After wearing it for a while, I think this one has scissors in it's future. It's a bit too long for what I had in mind. 

I'm wearing this Mandy with my very favorite self-drafted linen pants


Shorter
After trying on the Short version, I cut 2 more inches off the next Shorter top (shortened 7" total). I LOVE this length. It is clearly within the crop top trend but is still totally wearable, and covers all the bits of fairly modest me. This is definitely my cropped Mandy sweet spot. I'm not temped to tuck it in, and it works with my vast collection of high waisted pants and shorts. This will definitely be a warm weather staple. The navy and white stripe cotton jersey is (sold out) from Blackbird Fabrics.

I'm wearing this Mandy with some self-drafted linen shorts I made a few summers ago. 


Shortest

The Shortest top is actually the inspiration for the crop top exercise. I wanted to play with the clashing and coordinating qualities for the burgundy, crimson, and peach of the tencel skirt, and cotton jersey shirt fabrics. I also wanted the top to show a bit of the narrowest part of my waist to get the proportions that I wanted. I think the proportion and color results are spot on. I love the hint of narrow waist juxtaposed with the exaggerated width of the top. The thing I forgot to consider is what is just above this extra high waisted skirt, my boobs! In truth it falls a little short (pun intended) on the wearability scale. I worry I'm just a gentle breeze away from a wardrobe malfunction. I'll certainly wear it with this super high waisted skirt (and a presentable bra), but not with other pants. I think I have enough fabric to make another, slightly longer, one. And I'm not above making or owning 2 nearly identical shirts.

I'm wearing this Mandy with the self-drafted skirt from a couple posts ago. The crimson and peach cotton jersey is from Blackbird Fabrics. The tencel twill skirt fabric is from Fabric.com. 


Supply List:
T-shirt Pattern: Mandy Boat Tee by Tessuti Fabrics

Short:
Cropped 5"
Fabric: From my stash

Shorter:
Cropped 7"
Fabric: Navy and White Cotton Jersey (sold out) from Blackbird Fabrics

Shortest:
Cropped 9"