Thursday, November 1, 2018

Simplicity 8723 Harry Potter Halloween Costume

Harry Potter. This costume feels inevitable. I think we have been reading HP continuously since 2015. We're reading book 7 at bedtime now, so each of us will have read the entire series individually and together. J is not a big fan of dress up (unlike his sister), and usually asks for a completely impossible costume like a black hole, or dark matter (made it, but never posted the full costume). This year I tried to steer him toward a classic like a ghost or Dracula, but Harry Potter was the only idea that resinated. The second he put on the robe and had the wand in his hand he caught the Halloween spirit enough to forget that half his costume was his catholic school uniform. :)

The robe pattern is Simplicity 8723, it's got the entire size range, and I suspect I will be sewing this pattern again in the future. I used stash buttons, and a hair tie to make the closure, and the Gryffindor patch is from Amazon. I altered the pattern to make full underlining pieces for the front and a deeper facing for the back. I know my HP would want to rush off in search of horcruxes or candy and I didn't want the 4 inch front facing giving him away as a fraud. I hand stitched the lining and the facing. If I had planned ahead I could have done more on the machine but it was late and I was flying by the seat of my pants. Next time I would deepen the arm opening. It's pretty snug for something you're supposed to wear a sweater and button-down under. I also deepened the right pocket to accommodate his 11" hand whittled wand. His is ancient and mysterious lilac from the backyard at the farm. He also peeled the bark with his pocket knife (they're not as dangerous as you might think).

The exterior fabric is gabardine suiting in solid black from Fabric.com*. I had black Kona cotton in my cart, but changed my mind at the last minute. I hate how polyester it is, but I love the weight and drape. It really feels like real clothing feel of the finished robe. I'm telling myself the polyester is authentic school uniform material. The lining is Robert Kaufman Kona Cotton in Crimson* from Fabric.com*. I bought and used a full 2 yards for the hood and lining. I think the color is the perfect Gryffindor shade of burgundy. 

Robe Pattern: Simplicity 8723
Robe Fabric: Gaberdine Suiting in Solid Black from Fabric.com*
Robe Lining: Robert Kaufman Kona Cotton in Crimson from Fabric.com*
Gryffindor Patch: Amazon

*Fabric.com links are affiliate links.

Wednesday, October 31, 2018

Handmade Classic Witch Halloween Costume

Halloween is the best worst holiday. Parents making themselves crazy over an outfit their kid will wear once. It's stupid, and I love it. I remember my mom at the sewing machine late into the night before trick-or-treat sewing 5 handmade fantasies. In 7th grade she made me the most amazing Captain Hook costume, it had a red 3/4 jacket, and a hook made with a coat hanger, duct tape, and the bottom of a 2 liter bottle of soda (remember those?). All pure mom imagination without the benefit of craft blogs or pinterest. I tend to go overboard on Halloween, but I just don't care. Childhood is fleeting, the image of L at 8:30 this morning walking through Target in this costume as if she were the queen of South Philadelphia will sustain me well into old age. I hope she thinks of it when she is panic buying Halloween supplies for her own kids. 
This costume is a lot of pieces. I like to make costumes that can easily adapt to another fantasy and become dress up clothes the other 364 days of the year. The top is the Janie Dress from Mouse House Creations that I converted to a hi/lo peplum and added bells sleeves. It's sewn with stretch crushed velvet from Fabric.com. L could wear the top with leggings or a more sane skirt as a slightly fabulous regular outfit too.

The skirt is an improvised tutu. I bought 15 yards of black matte tulle at Joann, divided it into 5 layers, so each layer was 3 yards around. I gathered that into a 36" waistband, then used elastic to gather it down to L's waist size. The daisy tulle is a vintage fabric from my MIL's stash that followed L home the last time she visited. It's a nice bit of detail in the sea of black.

I made L a witch hat years ago, and I share the pattern HERE. This is more or less the same process but I sized up for a big kid sized head. The whole thing is sewn from acrylic felt with black ric rac around the brim. The pointed crown is a single layer of felt that I reinforced with fusible interfacing, the brim is two layers with a circle of thick reinforcing sewn in between to keep the brim from flopping. We used left over tulle from the skirt to decorate the hat with some spiders are the spoils of past Halloweens and a vintage button from L's collection.
Lydia took charge of the accessories. She made the broom herself months ago. She cut down a little black walnut tree, scrapped most of the bark off of it with her pocket knife, and wrote "fire bolt" on the end with a sharpie. For the bristles she used the spine of the walnut leaves that she tied on with yarn. She also made the choker from a scrap of the shirt fabric. 


Top Fabric: Stretch Panne Velvet Velour in Black from Fabric.com*

Dress Pattern: Improvised
Dress Top Fabric: Vintage 
Dress Under Fabric: Black Matte Tulle from Joann Fabric

Hat Pattern: Improvised
Hat Fabric: Acrylic Felt from Joann Fabrics

*Fabric.com links are affiliate links.

Tuesday, October 16, 2018

Handmade Baby Gift

When my newest niece was born I hustled off to the yarn store to treat myself to try something new (to me). I bought the fingerling weight Loft from Brooklyn Tweed in Camper. It's got little fleck of other colors in it knitting into a really dynamic fabric. So I did a little math and converted my Simple Ribbed Pixie Bonnet pattern to the light weight yarn. Thing is, one little hat doesn't look like a very satisfying gift. I went shopping for something else to add to the present and I saw this sweet fleece vest. It didn't come in baby sizes, the lining was the wrong color, and I don't feel good about giving cheap stuff to tiny babies, so I made one with fabrics from my stash.

A hand knit pixie bonnet and a home sewn vest make a great baby gift, all tucked into a bento bag that Mama can use to stash a spare diaper and wipes later on. All fabric & pattern details below.

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Hat Pattern: Simple Ribbed Pixie Bonnet by SweetKM
Hat Yarn: Brooklyn Tweed Loft in Camper from Loop Yarn in Philadelphia
Hat Button: Vintage

Bag Pattern: Wholecloth Bento Bag by SweetKM
Bag Fabric: Robert Kaufman Essex Linen Blend from Fabric.com*

Vest Pattern: Improvised
Vest Fabric: Michael Miller Organic Sherpa Fleece from Fabric.com*
Vest Lining: Long Stashed Cotton Print (similar)
Vest Binding: Robert Kaufman Essex Linen Blend from Fabric.com*


*Fabric.com links are affiliate links.


Tuesday, September 25, 2018

Ladder Stripe Lou Box Top & Wide Leg Pants

Since moving early last summer, I have collected quite a stash of uncut yardage purchased with big plans and the best intentions, but no actual time to sew. (There's no better way to quantify a fabric hoarding problem than to move!) This fall I'm determined to work through that guilty pile with a little something to refresh my fall wardrobe. These are my go-to self-drafted pants, and my very favorite pattern to hack, the Lou Box Top from Sew DIY.
The pants are my standard wide leg pants pattern that I drafted a few years ago. I am so heavily invested in this style (current count - 6), can we all please agree that they will never go out of style?! I used the medium weight Tencel Twill II from Blackbird Fabrics for this version. This Camel color is sold out, but I'm also loving Penny. I wanted something a bit more substantial for fall than my linen versions, but with a drape that doesn't stifle the width. This fabric is so swishy and soft I'm tempted to make a pair in every color!
I saw a top similar to this one somewhere on the internet, and I've had it tucked into a dusty little corner of my brain ever since. The Lou Box Top is basically two pieces, a front and a back. I cut each piece parallel to the center line about 2 inches from the neck opening. Then added a seam allowance to each side of the cut. I cut the outer piece parallel to the grain of the fabric, and the center piece perpendicular to the grain to create this ladder stripe pattern. To make the button back I added 2" to the center back. I used a 1" strip of fusible interfacing 1/2" from the raw edge of the center back pieces for the button placket. Then turned a 1/2" fold, then a 1" fold one each side of the back. Then stitched as close to the fold as I could to sew down the placket. I was torn as to weather I should match the buttons/holes to the stripe pattern but in the end decided that made the buttons either awkwardly close, or awkwardly far apart so I just spaced them 3". You'll find a few images for how-to make the hack at the end of this post. 

The fabric is a yarn dyed cotton linen stripe from Fabric.com*. It's the perfect weight for an unstructured top, but it is a tad see through on the white stripes. I was careful to position a thick blue stripe across my bust line. 

HOW-TO HACK THE LOU BOX TOP
click for larger image



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Details:
Shirt Pattern: Lou Box Top from Sew DIY
Shirt Fabric: Cotton/Linen Stripe from Fabric.com*
Pants Pattern: Self-drafted Wide Leg Pants
Pants Fabric: Tencel Twill II in Camel from Blackbird Fabrics

*Fabric.com links are affiliate links.




Wednesday, September 12, 2018

The New Ali Sweatshirt Sewing Pattern From Sew DIY

The new Ali Sweatshirt from Sew DIY is making all my loungewear dreams come true. I'm going through a sewing for comfort phase (or have I always been in one?!), elastic waist paints, loose fitting tees, and now cozy sweatshirts. It was 95 degrees with drenching humidity the day I took these photos (which explains the drastic departure in hair styling), but even in the summer an easy wearing sweatshirt comes in handy. This is a little something to throw into the tote bag for the fireworks, or use as a beach coverup. The sand won't be an issue in a easy washing french terry knit. 

The Ali Sweatshirt construction is a nice little twist on your basic pullover. There is a two piece back yoke that pushes the shoulder seam a bit to the front. Those seam lines along with a two piece sleeve, and drop shoulder add a bit of subtle (my favorite kind) detail to the lines of the top. 
I made this as a pattern tester and I know Beth has tweaked the length since then so I won't get into how I altered mine. I love the exaggerated width and cropped length. I wore the Ali with my self-drafted shorts and Adventure Tanks all through an unusually chilly week in August when I was at my family's farm. Having a simple sweatshirt that I could wear over just about anything made it easy to pack light. 

For the sizing I sewed a medium graded to a large at the hips. Next time I think I could get away with a straight medium since I cropped the length to above my hip (i.e. largest measurement). There is also plenty of ease built into this design. 

The fabric is Telio Splendid french terry* in dark gray, and it is as splendid as its name would have you believe. It's a loose, soft weave, and has a nice bit of drape. I pre-washed it once, but next time I would do it twice. I've worn and washed it a lot and it's shrunk a little more. 

I've probably said it before but I love the layout of SewDIY patterns. There is such a clear hierarchy of information with sizes, labels, and notes each given their proper priority that there's no doubt where or what you're cutting. I hate it when you tape up a pattern and everything reads the same. They are the opposite of those Japanese pattern books where all the patterns are printed on top of each other giving me a headsplosion!

Pattern: Ali Sweatshirt from Sew DIY
Fabric: Telio Splendid French Terry in Dark Gray from Fabric.com*
Shorts: Self-Drafted

*Fabric.com links are affiliate links. The opinions are my own. 
I received this pattern for free as a tester for Sew DIY. The opinions are my own. 

Monday, August 13, 2018

Sewing White T-Shirts

Here is another installment of what I did last summer (actually the summer before that, even). I made 3 white t-shirts using two different sewing patterns. White t-shirts are often overlooked for more complicated projects but I think summer is the perfect time for easy, breezy, fast sewing projects.  
I made this white t-shirt during #simplesummersewing that I hosted a few years ago with Petit a Petit + Family basics like this took center stage. A simple t-shirt is perfect for hot weather, quick to sew, and gets lots of wear.
I’m wearing a short sleeve v-neck Lark Tee by Grainline Studio. The kids are wearing School Bus Tees from Oliver + S. J is wearing view A, and L is wearing the more feminine view B sleeve options. I came across some really high quality jersey knit at my local fabric shop in Philadelphia. Fabric this good had to be made into t-shirts immediately! They are the simplest of summer sewing. If you're in the market for a new white tee my new favorite jersey is the Telio Organic Cotton jersey*. It's a bit lighter than this fabric, and has a really nice drape and recovery. 
Adult T-Shirt Pattern: Lark Tee from Grainline Studio
Boy's T-Shirt Pattern: School Bus Tee from Oliver + S
Girl's T-Shirt Pattern: School Bus Tee from Oliver + S
Fabric: Telio Organic Cotton Jersey (substitution) from Fabric.com*

*Fabric.com links are affiliate links. Opinions are my own. 


Monday, August 6, 2018

Denim Basics Dress

During the last few lazy days of summer, when no new sewing is likely to happen over here, I'm bringing a few past sewing projects back to SweetKM that I posted on other sites. I love this Basics Dress from Cali Faye Collection and it's time I post it here. I made this dress as part of Simple Summer Sewing I hosted with Petit a Petit and Family a few years ago. I made this dress at our summer cottage in the middle of the night. It's a quick sew and easy fit perfect for days when the kids would rather be at the pool than at home watching you sew. A tank dress is a summer wardrobe staple that can stand up to the most persistent heat wave. I like this design for its easy wearing drawstring waist, narrow shoulder straps, and scoop back. 

The simple lines of a basic dress make for easy customization and modification. One pattern can become many different garments with the right alterations. I have sewn this pattern before exactly as written, so I was already familiar with the fit and construction. For this version I planned ahead and made a few modifications to fit my own personal style. I added pockets, straightened the shirt tail hem, and used a bias finish on the neck and arm openings rather than the full lining. 
The fabic is Art Gallery Denim, light weight denim in indigo. It’s a classic color, and light weight enough to gather nicely, but heavy enough that it is completely opaque. It’s great for skirts, tops and dresses. 

This pattern calls for a full lining, resulting in an exceptionally clean construction. I didn’t need a lining with this fabric, but I tried to make an equally nice interior even without one. Simple projects are a great place to focus on truly polished seam finishes. I used bias binding at the neck and arm openings, and French seams at the side and shoulder seams. The edges of the added pockets are bound with a few scraps of Liberty London from my stash. The channel for the drawstring is a strip of fabric sewn in with the waist seam, then folded over and stitched to the bodice completely encapsulating any raw edges at the waist. The drawstring is a piece of grosgrain ribbon. I cut the ribbon in half and sewed 4" of elastic into the middle so the waist tie wasn't rigid.

Fast sewing projects, unlike fast fashion, don’t have to be disposable. I’ve been wearing this silhouette for years. With the extra care taken in finishing this dress, I’m confident it is a piece that will survive many wearings, and be a core part of my summer wardrobe. 

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Pattern: Basics Dress by Cali Faye Collection 
Fabric: Art Gallery Fabrics Smooth Denim in Indigo