Saturday, May 14, 2022

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer


This matched natural linen Heather Blazer and shorts has been a long time coming. I made the shorts last summer because the pattern is self-drafted and I can whip it up without any major decisions slowing me down. I got a little hung up on the Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer. First I guilted myself into thinking I had to muslin, spoiler alert, I didn't and it turned out fine. Then I waffled over the lining. Why is a good lining so hard to find?!  Nonsense, lead to time wasting and then the seasons changed without a linen blazer. But sometimes some time away is all you need to work through your hangups. This time, I jumped right in. 

The Pattern: The Heather Blazer by Friday Pattern Company is an oversized, lined blazer, with big patch pockets, a notched collar and single button closure. As I said before, I got hung up on muslining, but after comparing the finished garment measurements to mine, I figured it was a pretty good bet that I would like it without modifications. The pattern is written for a B cup (which I am), and there are no darts or fitted elements that could cause problems. I sewed a straight medium. The only modification was to take 2" from the length. I started with a paper fitting (just held up the pattern piece with the seam allowances folded over to see where it fell), and determined I needed to remove 1" so the jacket wasn't longer than the shorts. I took 1/2" above the waist and 1/2" below. In the end I shortened the hem another inch so you can just see that shorts under it. Next time I would take a full inch above the waist. I ended up raising the button/buttonhole too. 

The Fabric: This is European 100% Linen from Fabric.com in Natural. I bought it last year with this jacket in mind and ordered a little extra for the shorts. I've sewn with this fabric in other colors, so I already knew I liked the weight, drape, and durability. I love the linen rumple texture it gets after washing. The front for the jacket calls for a full sized fused interfacing. Would do something different next time. The linen and the synthetic interfacing are at odds with each other, and the front of the jacket is a little stiff. Was trying to stretch my boundaries when I picked this rather light color, but I think I'll make another darker version for when I feel content in my rut. 

The lining fabric is Cotton + Steel Picnic Lawn Sunday Dress also from Fabric.com. I thought the dots would be a neutral enough print to wear with most anything. But, it's not quite neutral enough. I find myself choosing tops based on the tiny slivers of lining print at the sleeve, which was not how I wanted this to work. Otherwise, the fabric is a solid choice for a jacket lining, and works well with the weight of the linen. 

The Outfit: The tank is an Ogden Cami by True Bias. I made it last summer and it's a wardrobe staple, even in this bold print. The shorts are my standard self-drafted pattern, made in the same fabric as the jacket. I wear some version of this pattern all summer (and most of the spring and fall, and now that I have a corduroy pair, most of the winter too). I just can't be bothered to wear something that doesn't fit just right. Eventually, the fashion pendulum will swing far enough that I have to change, but not yet. 


Details:
Jacket Fabric: European 100% Linen in Natural from Fabric.com
Jacket Lining Fabric: Cotton & Steel Picnic Lawn Sunday Dress Navy from Fabric.com
Tank Pattern: Ogden Cami by True Bias
Tank Fabric: Block Print from Etsy
Shorts Pattern: Self-drafted
Shorts Fabric: Same as Jacket


Friday, May 6, 2022

Cropped Paola Workwear Jacket


My first new make for Me Made May is the the Paola Workwear Jacket, the sewing pattern is by Fabrics Store. It's made with mid-weight canvas from Black Bird Fabrics. It's such a solid pattern and fabric combination, it was hard to limit myself to just one. 

The Pattern: The Paola Workwear Jacket by Fabrics Store is a basic chore coat with a button front and 4 patch pockets on the front. The front and neck opening has a facing. It's a basic, well drafted jacket pattern. I didn't love that the instructions are on the Fabric Store blog, and the pattern is in a pdf that can only be opened in Acrobat (not what I normally use). And, I couldn't find the specified button size anywhere, but that is just as likely because I'm a skimmer not a reader (I used 3/4" buttons). All that aside, the pattern is free, and meant to draw sewists into the beautiful linen selection carried by the Fabrics Store. I was willingly drawn. I had never heard of this shop, but have now drooled over every drapey linen listing. 

Modifications: I sewed a size 8/10 based on my measurements, and it is plenty roomie. I shortened the body by 4", and the sleeves by 1". I had grand plans to make a yoked back with a gather in the center back (similar to this), but late nights and cascading decisions like how to join the specified front facing with a back yoke (instead of back facing) lead me to simplify my modifications to just a center back seam. I added a seam allowance to the center line of the back piece and cut it as 2 pieces, rather can cutting it on the fold. The fabric is pretty light weight for a jacket and I wanted more seaming to give it a bit more structure. I also changed the pockets. I love the length/pockets as written, but it wasn't what I was looking for this time. Particularly on the shorter length the top opening of the patch pockets would have been useless. I made my own pocket shape, with the a slanted opening. 

The Fabric: This is 8.5 oz canvas in Walnut from Blackbird Fabrics. It's sold out now, but I'm crossing my fingers for a restock because I. Am. Obsessed! I swear my heart skips a beat every time our eyes lock across the room. It's got the perfect rumple, a fine texture, and a crisp drape. But, it's really the color that gets me. It's called Walnut, and it might me my favorite color ever. It's bright, without too much richness. It's so hard to get neutrals just right, but this one is. I actually intended it for full length, wide leg pants. I still think it would be great for that, but the jacket jumped the line. 

The Outfit: My family took a spring time, spring break trip to preview spring weather in New Orleans over Easter. I knew I would need a light layer, and that this color and style would work with a few of the outfits I packed. This dress was one of them. It's the Hinterland Dress by Sew Liberated. I don't often wear dresses, but if I do it's this one. It works with Tevas, or sneakers, or pointy little black flats. And dresses up or down easily. Linen might not be your first thought for stuffing into a suitcase, but wrinkles don't bother me. The scarf is a little scrap project that has earned it's place as a favorite accessory and pop of print with many outfits. It's a 21" square finished, I ironed a 3/16" hem around the edges than hemmed it by hand. 

And, the socks. I admit when I first showed this socks and clogs combo it was purely academic. Since then I've actually worn them this way outside the house. I can't quite put my finger on why, but it just works for me. These are my first pair of Penny Socks by Petit Knit. I love the simple structure of this design. I'm working on my third pair. 



Details:
Fabric - 8.5 oz washed cotton canvas in walnut from Blackbird Fabrics

Saturday, February 12, 2022

Pattern Love: Fragment Scarf Knitting Pattern

 

It's February. In theory, love is in the air, but in reality we're hunkered down with our Netflix and knitting. I love the Fragment Scarf. It's a winter wardrobe staple, adding a little bit of extra warmth to every outfit. I wear it all day long with just about everything. The Fragment Scarf doesn't get enough love, so I thought I'd show it some with a sale!

This weekend only (February 12-14, 2022) the Fragment Scarf knitting pattern is just $3. No code needed. Raid the stash, hit the yarn store, you only need 1 skien to knit this little slip of a scarf, but get 3. It's a quick knit. Now, head on over to the shop, and show the Fragment Scarf some love! 

Get yours here:


Share your knits!
I would love to see and share what you've made! Share your knits and WIP's on Instagram using the hashtags: 


Thursday, November 18, 2021

Tutorial: Quilted Logan Bag

My intention with the simplicity of the Logan Bag sewing pattern design is that it is easy to customize. I have too many pattern hacks and custom fabrics in mind for one woman, but this one made it to the top of my to-do list. The rectangular front pocket panel is just asking to be chopped up and put back together with pretty scraps. I'm not much of a quilter (yet?!), but I thought I'd share my process and the template to make your own quilted Logan Bag. There are templates for both the Mini and Standard sizes. The one I'm showing here is Standard, it's just the right size for bigger knitting projects, and I have a sweater on my list for winter knitting. 
I made a few test quilt blocks with scrap fabric before settling on the final fabric. I used a denim from my stash that is dark on the right side, and light on the wrong side. I used the wrong side to make the contrasting lighter pieces. I made a sandwich of the denim, a single layer of cotton quilt batting for a little loft, and fusible interfacing for structure. The whole bag is quilted with simple lines 1" apart. After making the quilted additions to the exterior I just sewed the pattern as written. It's a simple way to customize the Logan Bag. You will need the full Logan Bag pattern to do this pattern hack. Tutorial instructions are in a handy pdf you can store with your Logan Bag pattern. 

The quilted pocket design is a play on the classic flying geese quilt block, and inspired by the stacked triangle texture of the Fragment Scarf. It brings making full circle to carry knitting in a homemade bag inspired by knitting! 

I've made up a few more Hardware & Supply kits for Christmas giving. To sweeten your holiday making, I'm offering free US shipping on the Hardware & Supply Kit while the current inventory lasts. The pattern and kit would be a lovely holiday gift for your sewing bestie, or sew one up for a knitting friend.
Get the tutorial here:
Get the full pattern here:
Get the kit here:

Consider this your quilted Logan Bag starting point. Let the creativity flow. As always, I would love to see where this pattern takes you. Share your finished bags using the hashtags #wholeclothloganbag & #wholeclothpatterns. Be sure to tag me @_wholecloth.

 



Saturday, November 13, 2021

Handmade Fall Layers

I made some pants, and I really like them. I actually have a lot to say about these pants. They're self-drafted, but I think I'll leave all of that for a topic specific post. Today, I'm just going to go over the specifics of this outfit, and ease myself back into outfit posts. 
The pants are the newest garment I've sewn. I wanted some pull on tapered pants. I had two different strategies for creating them. The approach I took with these pants was to taper my self-drafted wide leg pants pattern. It was the easiest way to get to the end result, and I'm pretty happy with them. I used the Dani Pants leg lining it up just below the hip where the leg widths were the same and used that to taper the leg. I usually do a 26" inseam when I make these with wide legs, but added 1" for this version. I also added a few inches for a fold up cuffed hem. 

I've been sewing this self-drafted pattern since 2015. This is probably my 10th or 11th pair including shorts versions. You can read more about the drafting process here. The time and effort I put into drafting my own has definitely paid off.
I've been tinkering with a couple different approaches to pull on tapered pants. After a few iterations I learned for my own experience and basted the pants together, before cutting the pockets, to check the fit before I went all in with the finish. It would be a real bummer to serge up the sides only to discover my feet don't fit though the leg openings. That didn't actually happen, but I'm beginning to anticipate failure, and learn from mistakes. 

The fabric is Robert Kaufman14 wale corduroy in Rust from fabric. com. It'slovely fabric. I love, love, LOVE the color. I've been searching for nail polish this color all through the fall, but pants work just as well.  I was a little worried the nappy fabric would attract lint, but so far that concern seems unfounded. The are wearing very well. 

I'm wearing them with my Hilary Top, pattern by Tessuti Fabrics, that I've blogged before. This fabric goes with everything and nothing and works well with the color of these pants. 

The sweater is the one off (actually 2), no pattern, version of the kids' Passing Showers Tee. I won't share much about this as I still have the best intentions of sharing more about  making this size at some point, but don't feel like figuring it out not. 

Not gonna lie, wearing 3 handmade piece has me feeling pretty proud of myself. Wearing 2 pieces of my own design has me feeling so smug I can barely stand to be in the same room with myself. It's got volume, it's got texture, it's mixed media. What's not to love? I could, and probably should, feign humility, but this outfit makes me feel like a million bucks. 

Outfit Details:
Pants Pattern: Self-drafted some details here
Pants Fabric: Robert Kaufman 14 Wale Corduroy in Rust from Fabric. com

Shirt Pattern: Hilary Top by Tessuti Fabrics
Shirt Fabric: Block Print Cotton from Etsy
Shirt Details: Here

Sweater Pattern: My own
Sweater Yarn: O-wool Balance color Natural

Friday, October 15, 2021

Bag Making: How-to Tie the Fisherman's Knot

The Logan Bag is a drawstring bucket backpack with a continuous cord that closes the top opening of the bag and acts as the shoulder straps. Using the fisherman's knot to fasten the ends of the drawstring makes the shoulder straps adjustable.  



There is no one right way to tie the knot, and any knot that holds the ends of the string together will do just fine. But, I thought I'd share the fisherman's knot. It's my favorite knot for the Logan bag. After trying a few different knots, fancy and plain, I settled on this one as working best for me. 

I like the fisherman's knot for two reasons. First, it allows you to adjust the length of the shoulder straps.  Moving the knots a few inches lets you to wear the bag comfortably in many different ways. I usually lengthen mine to wear the bag across my body, but make them as short as possible to wear it on one shoulder. I can make this change on the move with this simple knot.  I also like it's low profile. It's basically two simple overhand knots, that are less bulky than a single know. The smaller knots naturally follow the pull of the drawstring. Even with the thick rope of the Standard Logan Bag the two small knots blend into the design of the bag. Of course, you'll want to trim final length of the drawstring to fit your body and preference.

Below you'll find a handy video tutorial that shows the adjustable straps in action, and how to tie the fisherman's knot. I've also got step by step photographs if pausing a video isn't your thing. I'm using the same drawstring that comes in the Hardware & Supply Kit for the Mini Logan Bag. 




How-to Tie the Fisherman's Knot

This image is really the key to the fisherman's knot. It is basically two overhand knots tied around the opposite string. 


When the knots are tightened you can pull the knots away from each other to shorten the loop of rope. 


Or pull the the strings to lengthen. 

Logan Bag Sewing Pattern
Head on over to the Wholecloth Patterns store to get your copy of the Logan Bag sewing pattern. 

Get the pattern!


The Logan Bag Hardware and Supply Kit has all the hardware, installation tools, and notions you'll need (including the drawstring) to make either the Standard or Mini Logan Bag. 

Get the kit!
















Wednesday, September 29, 2021

Bag Making: Logan Bag Hardware & Supply Kit

The Logan Bag drawstring bucket backpack has quite the list of hardware and supplies. There is a snap front pocket,  zippered interior pocket, and eyelets along the opening. It's got a drawstring closure, and optional self made piping around the bottom. Heavy duty fusible stabilizer helps keep the shape of the base. I chose components that are easily sourced from craft shops and online suppliers, but you might not be able to find everything at one store. To make sewing your Logan Bag even easier, I've assembled a kit for one stop Logan Bag hardware and supply shopping. The components were selected with ease of installation and professional finish in mind. 

Wholecloth Patterns Logan Bag drawstring bucket backpack sewing pattern

Standard Contents: 
2 heavy duty snaps (1 extra for practice)
1 snap tool
7” zipper
10 extra large eyelets 
1 eyelet tool
10” square of stabilizer
⅜” drawstring  
01 Piping Filler Cord

Wholecloth Patterns Logan bag drawstring bucket backpack sewing pattern
Mini Contents: 
2 heavy duty snaps (1 extra for practice)
1 snap tool
5” zipper
12 large  eyelets (2 extra for practice)
1 eyelet tool
6” square of stabilizer
1/4” drawstring 
00 Piping Filler Cord


The specialty tools needed to install the snaps and eyelets are included in the kit. A few common household and sewing tools are also necessary. You will need to have a hammer to install the hardware, x-acto knife to make the eyelet openings, a cutting mat or wood block to cut and hammer on, tailor's chalk for marking the placement of the hardware, a piping foot or zipper foot to make your own piping, and a heavy duty needle (such as 110/18 or 100/16) to make sewing through many layers of heavy duty fabric possible. It's also nice, but not mandatory, to have clips for holding thick fabrics together that might be difficult with pins. 

Get yours now!


Don't forget the discount!
The Logan Bag sewing pattern is 15% off until Friday, October 1st. Use the code LOGAN15 at checkout to get the launch week discount!

Get yours now!