Saturday, September 25, 2021

Introducing the Logan Bag Sewing Pattern



The new
sewing pattern is now available in the shop!

The Logan Bag

The Wholecloth Logan Bag is a drawstring bucket backpack. It has an easy access snap pocket at the front and a secure zipper pocket on the inside. There is a drawstring closure. The bag can be worn in many ways from backpack to cross body. The pattern come with two sizes of bag. The Standard size is designed to hold everything you need for a day out and about. The Mini will hold all the essentials like your wallet, phone and keys. 

The sewing pattern comes with 2 sizes of print at home PDF pattern, and clear step by step illustrated instructions for creating your bag. This pattern is written for heavy weight fabrics. We recommend 10 oz. canvas or similar. Lighter fabric can be used with the addition of medium weight interfacing. 

The pattern includes:
- step by step illustrated instructions
- print at home and assemble pdf pattern pieces 
- dimensions to draft your own pattern pieces 
- pattern and instruction to sew 2 different sizes of Wholecloth Logan bag.

Finished Bag Dimensions:
Standard: 10"x20"
Mini: 6"x12"

I've been working on this pattern little by little for most of the year. The benefit of the extended time in pattern development is that I've been road testing my bag for months. I love the hands-free convenience of wearing a backpack, and the reach-in accessibility of the drawstring top. It's a great everyday style. 

The bags shown here are made with 10oz cotton canvas. I didn't prewash it to maintain the stiffness of the new fabric. The rigid fabric, and a reinforced base, allow the bag to stand up for easy access, or working as a portable knitting basket. Lighter fabrics will have more slouch, and I recommend reinforcing them with medium weight fusible interfacing for the best result. The blocked construction of the exterior lends itself to highlighting a special print, or color blocking, or even a quilt square (stay tuned!). There are so many possibilities for customizing this bag. 


Logan Bag Hardware & Supplies

This bag calls for quite a bit of specific hardware and supplies. You can buy all of it at a craft store or online, but to make it as easy as possible to get behind the sewing machine I've put together a kit. The Hardware & Supply kit is one stop shopping for all the bits and pieces necessary to sew a Logan Bag

I'll be talking more about the kits later in the week. They are in the shop, and the quantity is limited, so get your Hardware & Supply Kit now!


Logan Bag Pattern Discount
Of course, there is a launch week discount. Use the coupon code LOGAN15 for 15% off the Logan Bag sewing pattern until October 1st. 
Get yours now!

I would love to see where you take this bag (physically  and aesthetically). Share you Logan Bag on Instagram with #wholeclothloganbag & #wholeclothpatterns. And tag me @_wholecloth.





Sunday, August 8, 2021

SweetKM is now Wholecloth Patterns!

A new name for a new creative phase. I have felt the urge to grow for some time, but the name SweetKM was holding me back. It was a reflection of where I once was, but not of where I want to go. After wrestling with new names for a few months (okay, years!), I've decided to double down on a pattern name I really love, the Wholecloth Project Bag. Once the lightbulb turned on, the decision was simple. The name of my pattern line, website, and overall creative presence going forward will be Wholecloth Patterns!

What's ahead for Wholecloth Patterns: Moving forward I will be focusing on bag sewing patterns with simple lines, thoughtful details, and lots of potential for customization. To kick off this transition I've got a new bag sewing pattern in the works! Follow @_wholecloth on Instagram for sneak peaks, and as usual, you'll hear about any new patterns first as an email subscriber

What's ahead for the Wholecloth Blog: While I have been spending more time designing, and testing new bag and accessory sewing patterns, I will continue to do outfit posts here. Making my own clothing fuels my creative process, and I love to make and share. 

What's ahead for the Wholecloth Project Bag: A few growing pains are bound to creep into any transitional process. You may have noticed I changed the name of the Wholecloth Bento Bag to the Wholecloth Project Bag. I want to be genuine in all my interactions online and in person. The Japanese inspired name, that felt like a tribute when I first published the pattern,  was not a true reflection of me. It did lead me to the point where I would grow, change, and move forward. It's still the same great pattern, only the name has changed to be a better reflection of myself and my brand. 

I love to see what you've made, please use the hashtag #wholeclothprojectbag going forward and feel free to retag your previous makes. You can tag old and new projects with #wholeclothpatterns!

New blog:
www.wholeclothpatterns.com


Emailing List Signup:

Buy the namesake pattern!





 

Friday, May 7, 2021

Short, Shorter, Shortest: 3 Cropped Mandy Boat Tees


Looking for the most bang for my very limited sewing time, I made a trio of the Tessuti Fabrics Mandy Boat Tee. The Mandy is a super simple knit top with perfectly relaxed proportions. The swingy body, snug arms, and collarbone sweeping neckline make it my wardrobe refresh garment of the moment.  There are 2 sleeve lengths included in this FREE! pattern. I made size 2 (small/medium) for all 3 tops.   I added 1" to the 3/4 length option. The prescribed hem length is around hip length. I cropped mine at 3 different lengths to in search of my crop top ideal with high waisted pants. 

Short
Let's start with the short (which is actually the longest) top. This exercise was meant to be a bit of a length experiment. I knew I wanted cropped tees, but I wasn't quite sure how cropped. I was hedging my bets with the first top and cropped it 5". I pinned up this version to test drive the shorter lengths. After wearing it for a while, I think this one has scissors in it's future. It's a bit too long for what I had in mind. 

I'm wearing this Mandy with my very favorite self-drafted linen pants


Shorter
After trying on the Short version, I cut 2 more inches off the next Shorter top (shortened 7" total). I LOVE this length. It is clearly within the crop top trend but is still totally wearable, and covers all the bits of fairly modest me. This is definitely my cropped Mandy sweet spot. I'm not temped to tuck it in, and it works with my vast collection of high waisted pants and shorts. This will definitely be a warm weather staple. The navy and white stripe cotton jersey is (sold out) from Blackbird Fabrics.

I'm wearing this Mandy with some self-drafted linen shorts I made a few summers ago. 


Shortest

The Shortest top is actually the inspiration for the crop top exercise. I wanted to play with the clashing and coordinating qualities for the burgundy, crimson, and peach of the tencel skirt, and cotton jersey shirt fabrics. I also wanted the top to show a bit of the narrowest part of my waist to get the proportions that I wanted. I think the proportion and color results are spot on. I love the hint of narrow waist juxtaposed with the exaggerated width of the top. The thing I forgot to consider is what is just above this extra high waisted skirt, my boobs! In truth it falls a little short (pun intended) on the wearability scale. I worry I'm just a gentle breeze away from a wardrobe malfunction. I'll certainly wear it with this super high waisted skirt (and a presentable bra), but not with other pants. I think I have enough fabric to make another, slightly longer, one. And I'm not above making or owning 2 nearly identical shirts.

I'm wearing this Mandy with the self-drafted skirt from a couple posts ago. The crimson and peach cotton jersey is from Blackbird Fabrics. The tencel twill skirt fabric is from Fabric.com. 


Supply List:
T-shirt Pattern: Mandy Boat Tee by Tessuti Fabrics

Short:
Cropped 5"
Fabric: From my stash

Shorter:
Cropped 7"
Fabric: Navy and White Cotton Jersey (sold out) from Blackbird Fabrics

Shortest:
Cropped 9"

Thursday, April 8, 2021

Fibre Mood Norma Blouse & Self-Drafted Shorts




When I look at this outfit of Norma Blouse from Fibre Mood and self-drafted linen shorts, I wonder if I'm having a midlife crisis. The thought was buried deep in my subconscious when I put these things together, but I'm pretty sure I had this same outfit in high school. I definitely had a different version of the same watch (intentionally like my dad's work watch) in high school, and a different version of the same hair style. The top was probably more of a t-shirt than a blouse, the sneakers were probably a brighter color, and I certainly didn't sew any of it, but the combination feels eerily familiar. I'm not gonna dig too deep into the meaning of this repeat and just believe that you wear what you feel good in. 

I used to never wear anything I made until I had photographed and blogged about it. It sort of seemed too risky. I'm going to give myself credit for increased confidence in my ability to recreate anything that meets with a wayward splash of red wine, or that wire that sticks out on the screen door. I've been wearing these shorts since last summer, and this top has been the focus of at least 3 outfits since I finished it a few weeks ago. Black and white, it just goes with everything. 

The Self-Drafted Linen Shorts

The shorts are self-drafted. I've blogged about them in the past. It's just my wide leg pants pattern shortened in length and widened at the thigh. They are simple but exactly what I like to wear. If you've ever stopped by this space before, you don't need me to extol the virtues of custom fit pants again. This pattern was the best thing I ever did for myself. It has ruined me for ready to wear. 

The shorts are made with the leftovers from my Wiksten jacket. Its European Washed Linen from Fabric.com in a very basic black. It's medium weight and fully opaque, even with white undies. The interior finish is a testament to my love for this pattern. The pocket bags are bias bound with coordinating linen from another project as is the tag.  


The Fibre Mood Norma Blouse

The Norma Blouse by Fibre Mood was a pitstop on the puffy sleeve journey I took a few months ago. They billow in all the right ways. I did make a muslin, and as a result I raised the point of the neckline 1/2" and increased the width ever so slightly from underarm to hem. 

Like my last project, this Indian block print came from Rohiyan on Etsy. It's a loose weave cotton, and less than 2 ounces per square yard, making it billow nicely about the sleeve. The logical drawback is that it's a bit sheer.  I also made a hand stitched bandana with some of the left over. 




Supply List:

Shirt Pattern: Norma Blouse by Fibre Mood
Shirt Fabric: Indian Block Print from Rohiyan on Etsy

Shorts Pattern:Self-Drafted (Past shorts post)
Shorts Fabric: European Washed Linen in Black from Fabric.com














 

Thursday, March 11, 2021

Block Print Hilary Top & Self-Drafted Skirt


I'm going through a puffed sleeve phase, and I'm not a bit sorry about it. Figuring heavily in my billowing daydreams is the Hilary Top by Tessuti Fabrics made here in a floral hand block printed cotton. I'm wearing it with a self-drafted skirt in a flowy tencel from Fabric.com.

After not sewing for over a year (baby, pandemic, virtual school, you know), I've got to catch up on the trends that popped up while I was hunkered down at home wearing Target leggings and a college sweatshirt. When I picked up my scissors again in January getting some puffed sleeves into my wardrobe was the first order of business.

The Hilary Top 

I had my eye on the Hilary Top by Tessuti Fabrics first because it seemed like a sure thing. Easy fit through the body, and all of the gathers are made with elastic rather than the typical baste and gather method, which I find tedious (so tedious!). I made a (mostly) wearable muslin to trouble shoot the fit and familiarize myself with the construction. I LOVE the way the facing and the sleeve seam are finished together. The inside is so neat and tidy and better than anything RTW. 

The original Hilary Top design has a peplum. I used the advice on the Tessuti blog to lengthen the top 6" to eliminate the peplum. I also added some extra width to the sleeve (because I am that serious about puffs). I added 1" at the shoulder and 3" at the cuff by slicing the arm pattern piece in half lengthwise (image below). I'm not sure I would do that with a bulkier fabric, but I love how it turned out here. 

The fabric for the top is a hand stamped, Indian block printed cotton from Rohiyan on Etsy. It was my first time ordering from this seller so I wasn't quite sure what to expect.  When I got it I knew the super light weight cotton would be perfect for those elastic gathers. I did a little math, and this fabric is around 2 ounces per square yard. 

The Self-Drafted Gathered Skirt

I didn't actually intend to wear this top with this skirt, but as the skirt also has elastic gathers and the colors work so well together they ended up on my body at the same time. This skirt is a self-drafted favorite of mine. A simple gathered skirt is a great place to start drafting for yourself. A few key measurements and you can quickly have a made to measure garment. It feels so good to reach for a pattern that you know will fit you just right. 

This skirt design has elastic at the middle of the front and back, but no elastic at the sides to minimize the bulk where I want things to look slimmer. The front elastic begins and ends just above the pockets. I've written about the skirt a few times before: red print, black, teal. The first time I made it was in 2014! 

The skirt fabric is Telio Tencel Twill II from Fabric.com. I've used very similar (possibly the same) fabric before so I knew how the drape and body would translate into a gathered skirt. The color is called Wine, and it works great with the pinker hue of the floral block print. I actually bought the fabric to go with a different top, more on that later. 

The Hilary Top is an easy one to dress up or down. As good (if not better) with jeans and flats (or more likely sneakers) as it is with boots and a skirt. I think it will see more casual wear overall. Here I'm wearing it with my favorite jeans (Everlane Cheeky Straight), and hand me down flats. 

Supply List:
Shirt Sewing Pattern: Hilary Top by Tessuti Fabrics
Shirt Fabric: Indian Block Print Cotton from Rohiyan on Etsy

Skirt Sewing Pattern: Self-drafter by SweetKM (me)
Skirt Fabric: Telio Tencel Twill II in Wine from Fabric.com






Thursday, December 10, 2020

Wiksten Haori with RK Taos Flannel Lining

 

Wiksten Haori Black Linen RK Taos Flannel Sierra Stripe
Wiksten Haori Black Linen RK Taos Flannel Sierra Stripe
The Wiksten Haori from Wiksten. I have several jackets of this style (okay, 4!), and one other from this pattern. I wear them often but was feeling a gap in the mid-weight jacket wardrobe category.  The boxy cut and long length fits over the baby carrier and bulky layers, and draws attention away from the fact that I'm wearing the same leggings as yesterday. Sometimes I just wear it around the house because I love the pockets. Make a Haori, and you'll never wonder where you put your phone again. 
RK Taos Linen Sierra Stripe Wiksten Haori SweetKM

The European 100% Washed Linen from Fabric.com*. The fabric is the highlight of this garment. Black linen is a beautiful basic. I like to think the fluid drape and natural fibers can compete with a nice dress or elevate the rattiest t-shirt.  This linen is one of my sure thing basics. It's a great weight for a jackets or pants, it's opaque, and washes well. I have some self-drafted shorts in Fig (blogged here), and made another pair in this black with leftovers. 

The RK Taos Flannel in Sierra Stripe from Fabric.com*. When I hesitantly chose this lining fabric I had cooler weather in mind. I knew a long length Haori would see the most wear in the spring and fall months when I wanted extra warmth. However, I had a few reservations about a linen jacket for cold weather, and lining linen with flannel. It seems like a contradiction, an oxymoron, a possibly inexcusable fashion dichotomy. But I just had to have this fabric. I love the whole line of Taos yarn dyed prints. Luckily, this is a case where two nice things are even nicer together. 

I've been wearing this jacket a lot in the past few weeks. Even jeans and a tee are dressed up for me lately. I normally throw this on over workout clothes when I do neighborhood errands. I would like to add some sort of front closure for the cold days in Philadelphia. I like that I can continue to alter this garment to be whatever I want.

SweetKM Wiksten Haori RK Taos Flannel

 Details:

Jacket Pattern: Wiksten Haori sewing pattern by Wiksten

Jacket Main Fabric: European 100% Washed Linen in Black from Fabric.com*

Jacket Lining: RK Taos Flannel in Sierra Stripe from Fabric.com*


*The Fabric.com links are affiliate links. The thoughts are my own.




Thursday, November 12, 2020

Hinterland Dress & Anna Vest

Sew Liberated Hinterland Dress Karen Templer Anna Vest Knitting Sewing Sweetkm

The linen Hinterland Dress (pattern by Sew Liberated) and wool Anna Vest (pattern by Karen Templer). They are the perfect combination of disciplines, fibers, and seasons. And possibly, the ideal way to ease back into the sewing circle.

I'm torn between making excuses for my absence and jumping back in as if nothing ever happened. I've got nothing to say for myself, so I'm going with the latter. I'm looking for an illusive balance, and I should know better. Life leaves me with digital homework to oversee more often than it does leisurely afternoons to search out fall's last flowers. I'm happy to have come back to needing this space. The planning, making, documenting, and sharing process always makes my thoughts feel extra tidy. A calm place in a head full of chaos. 

SweetKM Hinterland Dress Sewing Pattern Sew Liberated

SweetKM Sew Liberated Hinterland Dress Sewing Pattern

The Hinterland Dress pattern by Sew Liberated. I went back to the ol' record books to see when I conceived of this dress. It was long enough ago that by the time I had made a bodice muslin I had to size it up so it would work as maternity wear. But then I was pregnant and would rather nap than look nice, or finish a sewing project. My initial idea was to make a piece that could transition from pregnancy, to nursing, to the rest of my life. I got the last part right, so I'm gonna go ahead and call it a wardrobe success. 

I never wore this when I was pregnant because it made me feel like a parade float. Really, when 8 months pregnant in July, most anything gives you that Snoopy-on-34th-Street feeling. I finished all the raw edges separately to facilitate alterations as my body changed, or to size it back down postpartum. Now I like the extra easy volume. I altered the Hinterland to eliminate the button placket for a pull on style dress. I'm sure this is a tutorial somewhere, but I don't have the patience to find it. 

The European Linen Striped Shirting from Fabric.com. I bought this fabric in April of 2019, and naturally it isn't available any more. This olive green is similarly subdued, or this check equally understated. I love the weight and drape of the Fabric.com European Linens. They're supple and tremble like they have a mind of their own. 

SweetKM Karen Templer Anna Vest Knitting Pattern Brooklyn Tweed Shelter
Sweetkm Brooklyn Tweed Shelter Karen Templer Anna Vest Knitting Pattern

The Anna Vest by Karen Templer. The vintage styling makes this a timeless piece that will mature well. The diminutive size makes it a timely piece that knits up quickly. The finishing, well...not so much. This pattern offers the choice of picking up the button band or sewing on a separate piece. I like the clear delineation and solid structure of the separate button band. My top button is a few rows north of where it ought to be, but I'll not hold it against the vest or the knitter. 

The Brooklyn Tweed Shelter in Barn Owl. The sophisticated neutrals of Shelter (and BT in general) can't be beat. The simple variations in color adds dimension to this simple stitch pattern. The Barn Owl color is retired, but Wood Smoke would be a good substitute. 

SweetKM Karen Templer Anna Vest Sew Liberated Hinterland Dress

Despite its long shelf life, this is not my oldest WIP. Hopefully we'll get to that one before the year is out. In the meantime I'll be over on Instagram trying to figure out what everyone's been up to. Please stop by and catch up.


Details:

Dress Sewing Pattern: Hinterland Dress by Sew Liberated

Dress Fabric: 100% European Striped Linen (similar) from Fabric.com

Vest Knitting Pattern: Anna Vest by Karen Templer

Vest Yarn: Shelter in Barn Owl by Brooklyn Tweed

Knitter's Notes: My Anna Vest knitter's notes on Ravelry


Fabric.com links are affiliate links. Thought are my own.