Wednesday, October 19, 2022

Tether Pouch Hardware & Supplies

It often seems like the most (tedious, or is it just me?) time consuming part of a new sewing project is getting all the materials in same place at the same time. Particularly with bag sewing, the right hardware, clasps or zippers can really make the finished bag something special. I've assembled some kits to make supply buying for the Tether Pouch easier. They are meant to be modular, so start with what you have. You can buy single kits to fill in holes in your stash, or multiple kits to make a whole set of pouches. Now, let's go over all the bits and pieces needed to sew a set of Tether Pouches.


Hardware

The Tether Pouch has a swivel clip and/or D ring on each component so you can easily attach them to each other. These pieces can change the aesthetic of the finished pouch. Classic metal hardware is my favorite. It's what I used for my samples, and what I've stocked in the shop. I'm currently stocking silver and antique brass finishes. Let's go over the options. 


The single Tether Pouch kit has 1 swivel clip and 1 D ring. It's just enough to make one Tether Pouch in any size. 


The single Tether Pouch & wristlet kit has 1 swivel clip and 2 D rings. It's just enough to make one Tether Pouch and the wrist strap. 

Add 2 single pouch kits and you'll have the hardware to make the set of 3 pouches and the wrist strap. 
 


The Tether Pouch belt strap kit has 1 length adjuster, 1 D ring, and 1 swivel clip. Combine this kit with a length of cotton webbing (below) and you'll have what you need to make the complete waist strap. 


The Tether Pouch pattern specifies 1" hardware, but you can easily substitute other sizes. I like the simple classic style shown on these samples, but there are tons of fun styles available online. Try Craft Me Studio on Etsy, or Wawak for more diverse hardware choices. If you don't have time to wait for shipping, Joann usually has basic bag hardware in stores. 

Webbing


The Tether Pouch strap kit includes 2.25 yards of 1"cotton webbing. This is enough to make 3 pouches, a wrist strap and a belt strap with a little left over for strap length adjustments.  I like the natural look of the cotton webbing used on the sample pouches. It's in the shop in natural and black.


You can use nylon or cotton webbing for the Tether Pouch. Or, you can make your own strap from fabric using the instructions included in the Tether Pouch sewing pattern. Joann has a decent selection of webbing in stores. Zipper Zoo has a fun selection of decorative webbing online. 


Zippers


The Tether Pouch zipper kit includes 3 zippers of the same size. This is enough to make a single pouch. The size small uses 5" zippers, the medium 7", and the large 9".  These are metal zippers with a donut pull, and are stocked in silver or antique brass metal finishes.


You can use any kind of zipper for this project. Nylon for a sportier look, or zipper tape to make supply buying simple. Be sure your zippers are the right length. You'll be sewing as close to the ends as possible, and starting with the correct size will save some heartache (i.e. broken needles). Zipit on Etsy has tons of zipper options, and a large selection of metal zippers. Zipper Zoo and Wawak have lots of choices for zipper tape (also called zipper by the yard or continuous zipper roll). 

Fabric

I hate to put fabric last in this list, but you can use most anything, and this pattern takes so little fabric you probably already have something in you stash, or scrap bin. The Tether Pouch calls for a sturdy woven as the main fabric. I recommend 8oz/yd or heavier. If you're on the lighter side, I recommend reinforcing the main pieces of your pouch with medium weight fusible interfacing, such as Pellon 931TD. Don't over think it, use what you have.  

I don't usually prewash bag fabric because I want to preserve as much of the new fabric stiffness as possible. I would spot clean rather than machine wash most bags (except for some all fabric tote bags), so shrinkage isn't an issue. The cream and tan stripe pouches shown here are made from an old cotton canvas tablecloth that is probably around 9oz/yd. The dark print is Cotton + Steel cotton canvas. At 6oz/yd, I did reinforce it with interfacing. 

I just made, but have not yet shared, a set of Tether Pouches in Ruby Star cotton canvas. I love the fabric so much I may frame them instead of use them. The prints have metallic gold accents on part of the design, it's looks great with metal zippers and bag hardware. I reinforced the Ruby Star (just under 7oz/yd) with medium weight fusible interfacing so they hold their crisp shape over time. Hawthorne Supply has a great selection of Ruby Star cotton canvas. I just saw this purple color way of a Jen Hewett design and I'm gonna have to make another set of pouches!

Each pouch can be made with 1/4 yard or less of main fabric. It's a great opportunity to use precuts of the latest fabric release or scraps from your last pants project (Blackbird bottom weights anyone?) to make a new pouch. And, now I'm imagining one in corduroy...or denim...

The lining fabric couldn't be simpler. Any lightweight woven will do. Some of mine use Kona Cotton, and some use an old sheet. It's an ideal way to use the bits and pieces left from a special Nani Iro or Liberty print. 

Even after all these words, the take home message is this: start with what you have. Then fill in any holes with this handy list. 






Friday, October 14, 2022

New Tether Pouch Sewing Pattern

Introducing the Tether Pouch sewing pattern! The Tether Pouch is a 3 zipper pouch with a swivel clip and D ring at each edge so you can attach it to anything, and attach anything to it. The pattern comes with 3 sizes of pouch that you can layer up or carry individually. An adjustable belt strap and wrist strap are included in the pattern, so you can wear it as a wristlet, belt bag, or cross body. 

Get the pattern:

Tether Pouch Sizes

The Tether Pouch sewing pattern comes with 3 sizes of bag. The small carries just the basics and finished measurements are 5x4". The medium is my favorite size for quick errands and finished measurements are 7x5 1/2". The large holds all day essentials and finished measurements are 8x10". The waist and wrist straps have 3 suggested size options that are easy to customize to your preferred length. 

Tether Pouch Fabric
The Tether Pouch looks great in any medium weight rigid fabric such as canvas or denim. It also works well with pleather. I prefer a fairly rigid bag that stands up to daily wear. If you're using something that is less than 8oz per yard I recommend reinforcing it with medium weight fusible interfacing on all of the main fabric pieces. The Tether Pouch is a great project for using up scraps, or piecing and quilting your own custom combination. The lining can be made with any light weight woven fabric such as lawn, broadcloth or quilting cotton. 

Tether Pouch Supplies
Hardware is a great way to add personality to your Tether Pouch. The possibilities are endless for zipper and clip combinations. Use metal or plastic for very different styles of the same design. Already have swivel clips and D rings of a different size? Use them. This pattern is my jumping off point for sewists to add their own personal spin on their finished Tether pouches. Cotton webbing adds nice texture and contrast to the bag, but you can also make your own fabric straps in a few easy steps included in the pattern instructions. 
To kick off your Tether Pouch sewing I've got a selection of hardware, zippers, and webbing in the shop! 
Shop the kits:




Saturday, May 14, 2022

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer


This matched natural linen Heather Blazer and shorts has been a long time coming. I made the shorts last summer because the pattern is self-drafted and I can whip it up without any major decisions slowing me down. I got a little hung up on the Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer. First I guilted myself into thinking I had to muslin, spoiler alert, I didn't and it turned out fine. Then I waffled over the lining. Why is a good lining so hard to find?!  Nonsense, lead to time wasting and then the seasons changed without a linen blazer. But sometimes some time away is all you need to work through your hangups. This time, I jumped right in. 

The Pattern: The Heather Blazer by Friday Pattern Company is an oversized, lined blazer, with big patch pockets, a notched collar and single button closure. As I said before, I got hung up on muslining, but after comparing the finished garment measurements to mine, I figured it was a pretty good bet that I would like it without modifications. The pattern is written for a B cup (which I am), and there are no darts or fitted elements that could cause problems. I sewed a straight medium. The only modification was to take 2" from the length. I started with a paper fitting (just held up the pattern piece with the seam allowances folded over to see where it fell), and determined I needed to remove 1" so the jacket wasn't longer than the shorts. I took 1/2" above the waist and 1/2" below. In the end I shortened the hem another inch so you can just see that shorts under it. Next time I would take a full inch above the waist. I ended up raising the button/buttonhole too. 

The Fabric: This is European 100% Linen from Fabric.com in Natural. I bought it last year with this jacket in mind and ordered a little extra for the shorts. I've sewn with this fabric in other colors, so I already knew I liked the weight, drape, and durability. I love the linen rumple texture it gets after washing. The front for the jacket calls for a full sized fused interfacing. Would do something different next time. The linen and the synthetic interfacing are at odds with each other, and the front of the jacket is a little stiff. Was trying to stretch my boundaries when I picked this rather light color, but I think I'll make another darker version for when I feel content in my rut. 

The lining fabric is Cotton + Steel Picnic Lawn Sunday Dress also from Fabric.com. I thought the dots would be a neutral enough print to wear with most anything. But, it's not quite neutral enough. I find myself choosing tops based on the tiny slivers of lining print at the sleeve, which was not how I wanted this to work. Otherwise, the fabric is a solid choice for a jacket lining, and works well with the weight of the linen. 

The Outfit: The tank is an Ogden Cami by True Bias. I made it last summer and it's a wardrobe staple, even in this bold print. The shorts are my standard self-drafted pattern, made in the same fabric as the jacket. I wear some version of this pattern all summer (and most of the spring and fall, and now that I have a corduroy pair, most of the winter too). I just can't be bothered to wear something that doesn't fit just right. Eventually, the fashion pendulum will swing far enough that I have to change, but not yet. 


Details:
Jacket Fabric: European 100% Linen in Natural from Fabric.com
Jacket Lining Fabric: Cotton & Steel Picnic Lawn Sunday Dress Navy from Fabric.com
Tank Pattern: Ogden Cami by True Bias
Tank Fabric: Block Print from Etsy
Shorts Pattern: Self-drafted
Shorts Fabric: Same as Jacket


Friday, May 6, 2022

Cropped Paola Workwear Jacket


My first new make for Me Made May is the the Paola Workwear Jacket, the sewing pattern is by Fabrics Store. It's made with mid-weight canvas from Black Bird Fabrics. It's such a solid pattern and fabric combination, it was hard to limit myself to just one. 

The Pattern: The Paola Workwear Jacket by Fabrics Store is a basic chore coat with a button front and 4 patch pockets on the front. The front and neck opening has a facing. It's a basic, well drafted jacket pattern. I didn't love that the instructions are on the Fabric Store blog, and the pattern is in a pdf that can only be opened in Acrobat (not what I normally use). And, I couldn't find the specified button size anywhere, but that is just as likely because I'm a skimmer not a reader (I used 3/4" buttons). All that aside, the pattern is free, and meant to draw sewists into the beautiful linen selection carried by the Fabrics Store. I was willingly drawn. I had never heard of this shop, but have now drooled over every drapey linen listing. 

Modifications: I sewed a size 8/10 based on my measurements, and it is plenty roomie. I shortened the body by 4", and the sleeves by 1". I had grand plans to make a yoked back with a gather in the center back (similar to this), but late nights and cascading decisions like how to join the specified front facing with a back yoke (instead of back facing) lead me to simplify my modifications to just a center back seam. I added a seam allowance to the center line of the back piece and cut it as 2 pieces, rather can cutting it on the fold. The fabric is pretty light weight for a jacket and I wanted more seaming to give it a bit more structure. I also changed the pockets. I love the length/pockets as written, but it wasn't what I was looking for this time. Particularly on the shorter length the top opening of the patch pockets would have been useless. I made my own pocket shape, with the a slanted opening. 

The Fabric: This is 8.5 oz canvas in Walnut from Blackbird Fabrics. It's sold out now, but I'm crossing my fingers for a restock because I. Am. Obsessed! I swear my heart skips a beat every time our eyes lock across the room. It's got the perfect rumple, a fine texture, and a crisp drape. But, it's really the color that gets me. It's called Walnut, and it might me my favorite color ever. It's bright, without too much richness. It's so hard to get neutrals just right, but this one is. I actually intended it for full length, wide leg pants. I still think it would be great for that, but the jacket jumped the line. 

The Outfit: My family took a spring time, spring break trip to preview spring weather in New Orleans over Easter. I knew I would need a light layer, and that this color and style would work with a few of the outfits I packed. This dress was one of them. It's the Hinterland Dress by Sew Liberated. I don't often wear dresses, but if I do it's this one. It works with Tevas, or sneakers, or pointy little black flats. And dresses up or down easily. Linen might not be your first thought for stuffing into a suitcase, but wrinkles don't bother me. The scarf is a little scrap project that has earned it's place as a favorite accessory and pop of print with many outfits. It's a 21" square finished, I ironed a 3/16" hem around the edges than hemmed it by hand. 

And, the socks. I admit when I first showed this socks and clogs combo it was purely academic. Since then I've actually worn them this way outside the house. I can't quite put my finger on why, but it just works for me. These are my first pair of Penny Socks by Petit Knit. I love the simple structure of this design. I'm working on my third pair. 



Details:
Fabric - 8.5 oz washed cotton canvas in walnut from Blackbird Fabrics

Saturday, February 12, 2022

Pattern Love: Fragment Scarf Knitting Pattern

 

It's February. In theory, love is in the air, but in reality we're hunkered down with our Netflix and knitting. I love the Fragment Scarf. It's a winter wardrobe staple, adding a little bit of extra warmth to every outfit. I wear it all day long with just about everything. The Fragment Scarf doesn't get enough love, so I thought I'd show it some with a sale!

This weekend only (February 12-14, 2022) the Fragment Scarf knitting pattern is just $3. No code needed. Raid the stash, hit the yarn store, you only need 1 skien to knit this little slip of a scarf, but get 3. It's a quick knit. Now, head on over to the shop, and show the Fragment Scarf some love! 

Get yours here:


Share your knits!
I would love to see and share what you've made! Share your knits and WIP's on Instagram using the hashtags: 


Thursday, November 18, 2021

Tutorial: Quilted Logan Bag

My intention with the simplicity of the Logan Bag sewing pattern design is that it is easy to customize. I have too many pattern hacks and custom fabrics in mind for one woman, but this one made it to the top of my to-do list. The rectangular front pocket panel is just asking to be chopped up and put back together with pretty scraps. I'm not much of a quilter (yet?!), but I thought I'd share my process and the template to make your own quilted Logan Bag. There are templates for both the Mini and Standard sizes. The one I'm showing here is Standard, it's just the right size for bigger knitting projects, and I have a sweater on my list for winter knitting. 
I made a few test quilt blocks with scrap fabric before settling on the final fabric. I used a denim from my stash that is dark on the right side, and light on the wrong side. I used the wrong side to make the contrasting lighter pieces. I made a sandwich of the denim, a single layer of cotton quilt batting for a little loft, and fusible interfacing for structure. The whole bag is quilted with simple lines 1" apart. After making the quilted additions to the exterior I just sewed the pattern as written. It's a simple way to customize the Logan Bag. You will need the full Logan Bag pattern to do this pattern hack. Tutorial instructions are in a handy pdf you can store with your Logan Bag pattern. 

The quilted pocket design is a play on the classic flying geese quilt block, and inspired by the stacked triangle texture of the Fragment Scarf. It brings making full circle to carry knitting in a homemade bag inspired by knitting! 

I've made up a few more Hardware & Supply kits for Christmas giving. To sweeten your holiday making, I'm offering free US shipping on the Hardware & Supply Kit while the current inventory lasts. The pattern and kit would be a lovely holiday gift for your sewing bestie, or sew one up for a knitting friend.
Get the tutorial here:
Get the full pattern here:
Get the kit here:

Consider this your quilted Logan Bag starting point. Let the creativity flow. As always, I would love to see where this pattern takes you. Share your finished bags using the hashtags #wholeclothloganbag & #wholeclothpatterns. Be sure to tag me @_wholecloth.

 



Saturday, November 13, 2021

Handmade Fall Layers

I made some pants, and I really like them. I actually have a lot to say about these pants. They're self-drafted, but I think I'll leave all of that for a topic specific post. Today, I'm just going to go over the specifics of this outfit, and ease myself back into outfit posts. 
The pants are the newest garment I've sewn. I wanted some pull on tapered pants. I had two different strategies for creating them. The approach I took with these pants was to taper my self-drafted wide leg pants pattern. It was the easiest way to get to the end result, and I'm pretty happy with them. I used the Dani Pants leg lining it up just below the hip where the leg widths were the same and used that to taper the leg. I usually do a 26" inseam when I make these with wide legs, but added 1" for this version. I also added a few inches for a fold up cuffed hem. 

I've been sewing this self-drafted pattern since 2015. This is probably my 10th or 11th pair including shorts versions. You can read more about the drafting process here. The time and effort I put into drafting my own has definitely paid off.
I've been tinkering with a couple different approaches to pull on tapered pants. After a few iterations I learned for my own experience and basted the pants together, before cutting the pockets, to check the fit before I went all in with the finish. It would be a real bummer to serge up the sides only to discover my feet don't fit though the leg openings. That didn't actually happen, but I'm beginning to anticipate failure, and learn from mistakes. 

The fabric is Robert Kaufman14 wale corduroy in Rust from fabric. com. It'slovely fabric. I love, love, LOVE the color. I've been searching for nail polish this color all through the fall, but pants work just as well.  I was a little worried the nappy fabric would attract lint, but so far that concern seems unfounded. The are wearing very well. 

I'm wearing them with my Hilary Top, pattern by Tessuti Fabrics, that I've blogged before. This fabric goes with everything and nothing and works well with the color of these pants. 

The sweater is the one off (actually 2), no pattern, version of the kids' Passing Showers Tee. I won't share much about this as I still have the best intentions of sharing more about  making this size at some point, but don't feel like figuring it out not. 

Not gonna lie, wearing 3 handmade piece has me feeling pretty proud of myself. Wearing 2 pieces of my own design has me feeling so smug I can barely stand to be in the same room with myself. It's got volume, it's got texture, it's mixed media. What's not to love? I could, and probably should, feign humility, but this outfit makes me feel like a million bucks. 

Outfit Details:
Pants Pattern: Self-drafted some details here
Pants Fabric: Robert Kaufman 14 Wale Corduroy in Rust from Fabric. com

Shirt Pattern: Hilary Top by Tessuti Fabrics
Shirt Fabric: Block Print Cotton from Etsy
Shirt Details: Here

Sweater Pattern: My own
Sweater Yarn: O-wool Balance color Natural