3 Ways to Wear the Tauko Magazine Aurora Wrap Dress

 

Tauko Mazine Issue No. 7 is out now. This is the Aurora Wrap Dress sewing pattern designed by Abby Huston (@abby_sews). I was given my choice of an advanced copy of one of the 12 designs in issue 7.  I jumped at the chance to sew the Aurora because I knew it would be versatile in any season. 

The Aurora is an apron style wrap dress that overlaps in the back and the strings wrap around the waist to tie in the front or back. There is a bust dart, thin shoulder straps, and front patch pockets. The flexible fit of the wrap style allows you to wear most any layer under the dress from tanks to tees to button up shirts. The apron front is full coverage allowing you to wear it on its own as a sundress. 

I'm wearing the Aurora with a Fibre Mood Norma Blouse here. I love the puffed sleeves with this silhouette. The fabric of the blouse is very thing and semi sheer. I usually wear it with a cami underneath, but the apron front serves the same purpose. 

I can't remember what size I sewed and have already managed to misplace the pattern pieces. But I do remember that I used the darts for the next size down. It's a pretty easy style to paper fit the darts before you cut the fabric. And by that I mean, hold the pattern piece up to your body and compare the darts to your actual bust. I ended up shortening the straps a few inches (a very easy alteration) to get the darts at the proper height. Next time I would lower the waist tie (might still lower it on this dress) and the pockets about 1" to compensate for raising the bodice a bit. My only major alteration was to add a good 6" to the length. The original design hits at about knee length. There was one small error in the length of the back facing, it was easy to fix on my own, but check the errata on the website for guideance.

This design has full coverage in the front so you can wear it as a stand alone sundress. The minimalist styling adds to the carefree summer scenario playing out in my head. I imagine throwing this on after the beach or pool so we can have a drink or run some errands on the walk home. Or, tossing a few beers into these enormous pockets to sip while we bbq out back. 

The fabric is a lightweight cotton blend from my stash. It's fine, and seemed like it would have a decent drape, but it's a bit more stiff than I envisioned. A midweight linen would be perfect for this style. Something with a bit of texture for interest, and a little swish when you walk. 

When I first put this dress on, I had that put on an apron and get stuff done feeling. This is a more practical everyday outfit for groceries, school pick up, and getting stuff done. I'm wearing the Aurora with Penny Socks, and a new Rio Ringer Tee (pattern from True Bias). 

You can order Issue 7 of Tauko Magazine from their website, or find a list of brick and mortar stockiest. The magazine comes with with large format printed pattern sheets. If you order online you also have the choice of adding digital copies of the pattern pieces. I received my copy of this pattern for free, but my thoughts are sincere.

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Black Linen Matched Set with Ashton Top

It's celebration season. What are you wearing? 

I'll be wearing sneakers, elastic waist pants, and...pearls?! If relaxed sophistication is a look, then that's the target I'm shooting for. The pieces are black linen full length pants, a delicate linen button up, and matching black vest. Accessorized with smooth pearl jewelry and a nubby sherpa fleece bag. Mixed textures, and tailoring held together with a severe black and white palette. 

Maybe I'm sporting a fancy gym teacher vibe, but this outfit is in it for the long haul. 

The Pants: This my standard self-drafted pattern that I have made more than 15 times. FIFTEEN! And, they never let me down. They are pretty much perfect for holiday parties. They're relaxed and still put together, with an elastic waist so I can eat all the cookies, and generous pockets so I can take a couple home. Relevant to no-one but me, I lifted the rise by 1/2", and went with a full length, rather than cropped. I'm gonna say they're perfect now, but I don't want to limit their evolution. The fabric is a linen blend from Joann, purchased for expediency alone. It's nothing remarkable as a textile, but has a good balance of body and swish for these pieces. 

The Top: This is the Ashton Top from Helen's Closet. I made this top when I was on a bit of a matched set kick this summer. By the time I finished it was full on fall and I needed another layer. Luckily, the Ashton Top is roomy enough to wear as a vest. I don't remember what size a sewed, but I do remember that I raised the arm opening a bit. The Ashton is a rock solid woven tank pattern. I've tried a few others and like the fit and construction of this one the best. It's sewn up in a matching matching linen blend from Joann.

The Button Up: This is the Archer Button Up from Grainline Studio. You can read about it here. It's a closet staple and a pattern I've sewn 5 or 6 times. 

The Bag: This is the size large Tether Pouch. It's my favorite size for going out without kids (and sippy cups, and toys, and crayons). It fits all of my essentials. I used a few scraps of Michael Miller Organic Sherpa Fleece. I'm not entirely sure you can still buy this fabric, I've seen a lot of listings like this one. It's a low pile, fine textured cotton fleece that is thin enough to sew the zippers as usual. I did round the corners a little more than specified to decrease bulk. It's a knit, so I did fuse it with mid-weight interfacing for rigidity and structure. 

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

This matched natural linen Heather Blazer and shorts has been a long time coming. I made the shorts last summer because the pattern is self-drafted and I can whip it up without any major decisions slowing me down. I got a little hung up on the Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer. First I guilted myself into thinking I had to muslin, spoiler alert, I didn't and it turned out fine. Then I waffled over the lining. Why is a good lining so hard to find?!  Nonsense, lead to time wasting and then the seasons changed without a linen blazer. But sometimes some time away is all you need to work through your hangups. This time, I jumped right in. 

The Pattern: The Heather Blazer by Friday Pattern Company is an oversized, lined blazer, with big patch pockets, a notched collar and single button closure. As I said before, I got hung up on muslining, but after comparing the finished garment measurements to mine, I figured it was a pretty good bet that I would like it without modifications. The pattern is written for a B cup (which I am), and there are no darts or fitted elements that could cause problems. I sewed a straight medium. The only modification was to take 2" from the length. I started with a paper fitting (just held up the pattern piece with the seam allowances folded over to see where it fell), and determined I needed to remove 1" so the jacket wasn't longer than the shorts. I took 1/2" above the waist and 1/2" below. In the end I shortened the hem another inch so you can just see that shorts under it. Next time I would take a full inch above the waist. I ended up raising the button/buttonhole too. 

The Fabric: This is European 100% Linen from Fabric.com in Natural. I bought it last year with this jacket in mind and ordered a little extra for the shorts. I've sewn with this fabric in other colors, so I already knew I liked the weight, drape, and durability. I love the linen rumple texture it gets after washing. The front for the jacket calls for a full sized fused interfacing. Would do something different next time. The linen and the synthetic interfacing are at odds with each other, and the front of the jacket is a little stiff. Was trying to stretch my boundaries when I picked this rather light color, but I think I'll make another darker version for when I feel content in my rut. 

The lining fabric is Cotton + Steel Picnic Lawn Sunday Dress also from Fabric.com. I thought the dots would be a neutral enough print to wear with most anything. But, it's not quite neutral enough. I find myself choosing tops based on the tiny slivers of lining print at the sleeve, which was not how I wanted this to work. Otherwise, the fabric is a solid choice for a jacket lining, and works well with the weight of the linen. 

The Outfit: The tank is an Ogden Cami by True Bias. I made it last summer and it's a wardrobe staple, even in this bold print. The shorts are my standard self-drafted pattern, made in the same fabric as the jacket. I wear some version of this pattern all summer (and most of the spring and fall, and now that I have a corduroy pair, most of the winter too). I just can't be bothered to wear something that doesn't fit just right. Eventually, the fashion pendulum will swing far enough that I have to change, but not yet. 

Details:

Jacket Pattern: Heather Blazer by Friday Pattern Company

Jacket Fabric: European 100% Linen in Natural from Fabric.com

Jacket Lining Fabric: Cotton & Steel Picnic Lawn Sunday Dress Navy from Fabric.com

Tank Pattern: Ogden Cami by True Bias

Tank Fabric: Block Print from Etsy

Shorts Pattern: Self-drafted

Shorts Fabric: Same as Jacket

Cropped Paola Workwear Jacket

My first new make for Me Made May is the the Paola Workwear Jacket, the sewing pattern is by Fabrics Store. It's made with mid-weight canvas from Black Bird Fabrics. It's such a solid pattern and fabric combination, it was hard to limit myself to just one. 

The Pattern: The Paola Workwear Jacket by Fabrics Store is a basic chore coat with a button front and 4 patch pockets on the front. The front and neck opening has a facing. It's a basic, well drafted jacket pattern. I didn't love that the instructions are on the Fabric Store blog, and the pattern is in a pdf that can only be opened in Acrobat (not what I normally use). And, I couldn't find the specified button size anywhere, but that is just as likely because I'm a skimmer not a reader (I used 3/4" buttons). All that aside, the pattern is free, and meant to draw sewists into the beautiful linen selection carried by the Fabrics Store. I was willingly drawn. I had never heard of this shop, but have now drooled over every drapey linen listing. 

Modifications: I sewed a size 8/10 based on my measurements, and it is plenty roomie. I shortened the body by 4", and the sleeves by 1". I had grand plans to make a yoked back with a gather in the center back (similar to this), but late nights and cascading decisions like how to join the specified front facing with a back yoke (instead of back facing) lead me to simplify my modifications to just a center back seam. I added a seam allowance to the center line of the back piece and cut it as 2 pieces, rather can cutting it on the fold. The fabric is pretty light weight for a jacket and I wanted more seaming to give it a bit more structure. I also changed the pockets. I love the length/pockets as written, but it wasn't what I was looking for this time. Particularly on the shorter length the top opening of the patch pockets would have been useless. I made my own pocket shape, with the a slanted opening. 

The Fabric: This is 8.5 oz canvas in Walnut from Blackbird Fabrics. It's sold out now, but I'm crossing my fingers for a restock because I. Am. Obsessed! I swear my heart skips a beat every time our eyes lock across the room. It's got the perfect rumple, a fine texture, and a crisp drape. But, it's really the color that gets me. It's called Walnut, and it might me my favorite color ever. It's bright, without too much richness. It's so hard to get neutrals just right, but this one is. I actually intended it for full length, wide leg pants. I still think it would be great for that, but the jacket jumped the line. 

The Outfit: My family took a spring time, spring break trip to preview spring weather in New Orleans over Easter. I knew I would need a light layer, and that this color and style would work with a few of the outfits I packed. This dress was one of them. It's the Hinterland Dress by Sew Liberated. I don't often wear dresses, but if I do it's this one. It works with Tevas, or sneakers, or pointy little black flats. And dresses up or down easily. Linen might not be your first thought for stuffing into a suitcase, but wrinkles don't bother me. The scarf is a little scrap project that has earned it's place as a favorite accessory and pop of print with many outfits. It's a 21" square finished, I ironed a 3/16" hem around the edges than hemmed it by hand. 

And, the socks. I admit when I first showed this socks and clogs combo it was purely academic. Since then I've actually worn them this way outside the house. I can't quite put my finger on why, but it just works for me. These are my first pair of Penny Socks by Petit Knit. I love the simple structure of this design. I'm working on my third pair. 

Details:

Fabric - 8.5 oz washed cotton canvas in walnut from Blackbird Fabrics

Pattern - Paola Workwear jacket by Fabric Store

Handmade Fall Layers

I made some pants, and I really like them. I actually have a lot to say about these pants. They're self-drafted, but I think I'll leave all of that for a topic specific post. Today, I'm just going to go over the specifics of this outfit, and ease myself back into outfit posts. 

The pants are the newest garment I've sewn. I wanted some pull on tapered pants. I had two different strategies for creating them. The approach I took with these pants was to taper my self-drafted wide leg pants pattern. It was the easiest way to get to the end result, and I'm pretty happy with them. I used the Dani Pants leg lining it up just below the hip where the leg widths were the same and used that to taper the leg. I usually do a 26" inseam when I make these with wide legs, but added 1" for this version. I also added a few inches for a fold up cuffed hem. 

I've been sewing this self-drafted pattern since 2015. This is probably my 10th or 11th pair including shorts versions. You can read more about the drafting process here. The time and effort I put into drafting my own has definitely paid off.

I've been tinkering with a couple different approaches to pull on tapered pants. After a few iterations I learned for my own experience and basted the pants together, before cutting the pockets, to check the fit before I went all in with the finish. It would be a real bummer to serge up the sides only to discover my feet don't fit though the leg openings. That didn't actually happen, but I'm beginning to anticipate failure, and learn from mistakes. 

The fabric is Robert Kaufman14 wale corduroy in Rust from fabric. com. It'slovely fabric. I love, love, LOVE the color. I've been searching for nail polish this color all through the fall, but pants work just as well.  I was a little worried the nappy fabric would attract lint, but so far that concern seems unfounded. The are wearing very well. 

I'm wearing them with my Hilary Top, pattern by Tessuti Fabrics, that I've blogged before. This fabric goes with everything and nothing and works well with the color of these pants. 

The sweater is the one off (actually 2), no pattern, version of the kids' Passing Showers Tee. I won't share much about this as I still have the best intentions of sharing more about  making this size at some point, but don't feel like figuring it out not. 

Not gonna lie, wearing 3 handmade piece has me feeling pretty proud of myself. Wearing 2 pieces of my own design has me feeling so smug I can barely stand to be in the same room with myself. It's got volume, it's got texture, it's mixed media. What's not to love? I could, and probably should, feign humility, but this outfit makes me feel like a million bucks. 

Outfit Details:

Pants Pattern: Self-drafted some details here

Pants Fabric: Robert Kaufman 14 Wale Corduroy in Rust from Fabric. com

Shirt Pattern: Hilary Top by Tessuti Fabrics

Shirt Fabric: Block Print Cotton from Etsy

Shirt Details: Here

Sweater Pattern: My own

Sweater Yarn: O-wool Balance color Natural

Short, Shorter, Shortest: 3 Cropped Mandy Boat Tees

Looking for the most bang for my very limited sewing time, I made a trio of the Tessuti Fabrics Mandy Boat Tee. The Mandy is a super simple knit top with perfectly relaxed proportions. The swingy body, snug arms, and collarbone sweeping neckline make it my wardrobe refresh garment of the moment.  There are 2 sleeve lengths included in this FREE! pattern. I made size 2 (small/medium) for all 3 tops.   I added 1" to the 3/4 length option. The prescribed hem length is around hip length. I cropped mine at 3 different lengths to in search of my crop top ideal with high waisted pants. 

Short

Let's start with the short (which is actually the longest) top. This exercise was meant to be a bit of a length experiment. I knew I wanted cropped tees, but I wasn't quite sure how cropped. I was hedging my bets with the first top and cropped it 5". I pinned up this version to test drive the shorter lengths. After wearing it for a while, I think this one has scissors in it's future. It's a bit too long for what I had in mind. 

I'm wearing this Mandy with my very favorite self-drafted linen pants. 

Shorter

After trying on the Short version, I cut 2 more inches off the next Shorter top (shortened 7" total). I LOVE this length. It is clearly within the crop top trend but is still totally wearable, and covers all the bits of fairly modest me. This is definitely my cropped Mandy sweet spot. I'm not temped to tuck it in, and it works with my vast collection of high waisted pants and shorts. This will definitely be a warm weather staple. The navy and white stripe cotton jersey is (sold out) from Blackbird Fabrics.

I'm wearing this Mandy with some self-drafted linen shorts I made a few summers ago. 

Shortest

The Shortest top is actually the inspiration for the crop top exercise. I wanted to play with the clashing and coordinating qualities for the burgundy, crimson, and peach of the tencel skirt, and cotton jersey shirt fabrics. I also wanted the top to show a bit of the narrowest part of my waist to get the proportions that I wanted. I think the proportion and color results are spot on. I love the hint of narrow waist juxtaposed with the exaggerated width of the top. The thing I forgot to consider is what is just above this extra high waisted skirt, my boobs! In truth it falls a little short (pun intended) on the wearability scale. I worry I'm just a gentle breeze away from a wardrobe malfunction. I'll certainly wear it with this super high waisted skirt (and a presentable bra), but not with other pants. I think I have enough fabric to make another, slightly longer, one. And I'm not above making or owning 2 nearly identical shirts.

I'm wearing this Mandy with the self-drafted skirt from a couple posts ago. The crimson and peach cotton jersey is from Blackbird Fabrics. The tencel twill skirt fabric is from Fabric.com. 

Supply List:

T-shirt Pattern: Mandy Boat Tee by Tessuti Fabrics

Short:

Cropped 5"

Fabric: From my stash

Shorter:

Cropped 7"

Fabric: Navy and White Cotton Jersey (sold out) from Blackbird Fabrics

Shortest:

Cropped 9"

Fabric: Crimson and Peach Cotton Jersey from Blackbird Fabrics

Wiksten Haori with RK Taos Flannel Lining

 

The Wiksten Haori from Wiksten. I have several jackets of this style (okay, 4!), and one other from this pattern. I wear them often but was feeling a gap in the mid-weight jacket wardrobe category.  The boxy cut and long length fits over the baby carrier and bulky layers, and draws attention away from the fact that I'm wearing the same leggings as yesterday. Sometimes I just wear it around the house because I love the pockets. Make a Haori, and you'll never wonder where you put your phone again. 

The European 100% Washed Linen from Fabric.com*. The fabric is the highlight of this garment. Black linen is a beautiful basic. I like to think the fluid drape and natural fibers can compete with a nice dress or elevate the rattiest t-shirt.  This linen is one of my sure thing basics. It's a great weight for a jackets or pants, it's opaque, and washes well. I have some self-drafted shorts in Fig (blogged here), and made another pair in this black with leftovers. 

The RK Taos Flannel in Sierra Stripe from Fabric.com*. When I hesitantly chose this lining fabric I had cooler weather in mind. I knew a long length Haori would see the most wear in the spring and fall months when I wanted extra warmth. However, I had a few reservations about a linen jacket for cold weather, and lining linen with flannel. It seems like a contradiction, an oxymoron, a possibly inexcusable fashion dichotomy. But I just had to have this fabric. I love the whole line of Taos yarn dyed prints. Luckily, this is a case where two nice things are even nicer together. 

I've been wearing this jacket a lot in the past few weeks. Even jeans and a tee are dressed up for me lately. I normally throw this on over workout clothes when I do neighborhood errands. I would like to add some sort of front closure for the cold days in Philadelphia. I like that I can continue to alter this garment to be whatever I want.

 Details:

Jacket Pattern: Wiksten Haori sewing pattern by Wiksten

Jacket Main Fabric: European 100% Washed Linen in Black from Fabric.com*

Jacket Lining: RK Taos Flannel in Sierra Stripe from Fabric.com*

*The Fabric.com links are affiliate links. The thoughts are my own.

Hinterland Dress & Anna Vest

The linen Hinterland Dress (pattern by Sew Liberated) and wool Anna Vest (pattern by Karen Templer). They are the perfect combination of disciplines, fibers, and seasons. And possibly, the ideal way to ease back into the sewing circle.

I'm torn between making excuses for my absence and jumping back in as if nothing ever happened. I've got nothing to say for myself, so I'm going with the latter. I'm looking for an illusive balance, and I should know better. Life leaves me with digital homework to oversee more often than it does leisurely afternoons to search out fall's last flowers. I'm happy to have come back to needing this space. The planning, making, documenting, and sharing process always makes my thoughts feel extra tidy. A calm place in a head full of chaos. 

The Hinterland Dress pattern by Sew Liberated. I went back to the ol' record books to see when I conceived of this dress. It was long enough ago that by the time I had made a bodice muslin I had to size it up so it would work as maternity wear. But then I was pregnant and would rather nap than look nice, or finish a sewing project. My initial idea was to make a piece that could transition from pregnancy, to nursing, to the rest of my life. I got the last part right, so I'm gonna go ahead and call it a wardrobe success. 

I never wore this when I was pregnant because it made me feel like a parade float. Really, when 8 months pregnant in July, most anything gives you that Snoopy-on-34th-Street feeling. I finished all the raw edges separately to facilitate alterations as my body changed, or to size it back down postpartum. Now I like the extra easy volume. I altered the Hinterland to eliminate the button placket for a pull on style dress. I'm sure this is a tutorial somewhere, but I don't have the patience to find it. 

The European Linen Striped Shirting from Fabric.com. I bought this fabric in April of 2019, and naturally it isn't available any more. This olive green is similarly subdued, or this check equally understated. I love the weight and drape of the Fabric.com European Linens. They're supple and tremble like they have a mind of their own. 

The Anna Vest by Karen Templer. The vintage styling makes this a timeless piece that will mature well. The diminutive size makes it a timely piece that knits up quickly. The finishing, well...not so much. This pattern offers the choice of picking up the button band or sewing on a separate piece. I like the clear delineation and solid structure of the separate button band. My top button is a few rows north of where it ought to be, but I'll not hold it against the vest or the knitter. 

The Brooklyn Tweed Shelter in Barn Owl. The sophisticated neutrals of Shelter (and BT in general) can't be beat. The simple variations in color adds dimension to this simple stitch pattern. The Barn Owl color is retired, but Wood Smoke would be a good substitute. 

Despite its long shelf life, this is not my oldest WIP. Hopefully we'll get to that one before the year is out. In the meantime I'll be over on Instagram trying to figure out what everyone's been up to. Please stop by and catch up.

Details:

Dress Sewing Pattern: Hinterland Dress by Sew Liberated

Dress Fabric: 100% European Striped Linen (similar) from Fabric.com

Vest Knitting Pattern: Anna Vest by Karen Templer

Vest Yarn: Shelter in Barn Owl by Brooklyn Tweed

Knitter's Notes: My Anna Vest knitter's notes on Ravelry

Fabric.com links are affiliate links. Thought are my own.