Black Linen Matched Set with Ashton Top

It's celebration season. What are you wearing? 

I'll be wearing sneakers, elastic waist pants, and...pearls?! If relaxed sophistication is a look, then that's the target I'm shooting for. The pieces are black linen full length pants, a delicate linen button up, and matching black vest. Accessorized with smooth pearl jewelry and a nubby sherpa fleece bag. Mixed textures, and tailoring held together with a severe black and white palette. 

Maybe I'm sporting a fancy gym teacher vibe, but this outfit is in it for the long haul. 

The Pants: This my standard self-drafted pattern that I have made more than 15 times. FIFTEEN! And, they never let me down. They are pretty much perfect for holiday parties. They're relaxed and still put together, with an elastic waist so I can eat all the cookies, and generous pockets so I can take a couple home. Relevant to no-one but me, I lifted the rise by 1/2", and went with a full length, rather than cropped. I'm gonna say they're perfect now, but I don't want to limit their evolution. The fabric is a linen blend from Joann, purchased for expediency alone. It's nothing remarkable as a textile, but has a good balance of body and swish for these pieces. 

The Top: This is the Ashton Top from Helen's Closet. I made this top when I was on a bit of a matched set kick this summer. By the time I finished it was full on fall and I needed another layer. Luckily, the Ashton Top is roomy enough to wear as a vest. I don't remember what size a sewed, but I do remember that I raised the arm opening a bit. The Ashton is a rock solid woven tank pattern. I've tried a few others and like the fit and construction of this one the best. It's sewn up in a matching matching linen blend from Joann.

The Button Up: This is the Archer Button Up from Grainline Studio. You can read about it here. It's a closet staple and a pattern I've sewn 5 or 6 times. 

The Bag: This is the size large Tether Pouch. It's my favorite size for going out without kids (and sippy cups, and toys, and crayons). It fits all of my essentials. I used a few scraps of Michael Miller Organic Sherpa Fleece. I'm not entirely sure you can still buy this fabric, I've seen a lot of listings like this one. It's a low pile, fine textured cotton fleece that is thin enough to sew the zippers as usual. I did round the corners a little more than specified to decrease bulk. It's a knit, so I did fuse it with mid-weight interfacing for rigidity and structure. 

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

This matched natural linen Heather Blazer and shorts has been a long time coming. I made the shorts last summer because the pattern is self-drafted and I can whip it up without any major decisions slowing me down. I got a little hung up on the Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer. First I guilted myself into thinking I had to muslin, spoiler alert, I didn't and it turned out fine. Then I waffled over the lining. Why is a good lining so hard to find?!  Nonsense, lead to time wasting and then the seasons changed without a linen blazer. But sometimes some time away is all you need to work through your hangups. This time, I jumped right in. 

The Pattern: The Heather Blazer by Friday Pattern Company is an oversized, lined blazer, with big patch pockets, a notched collar and single button closure. As I said before, I got hung up on muslining, but after comparing the finished garment measurements to mine, I figured it was a pretty good bet that I would like it without modifications. The pattern is written for a B cup (which I am), and there are no darts or fitted elements that could cause problems. I sewed a straight medium. The only modification was to take 2" from the length. I started with a paper fitting (just held up the pattern piece with the seam allowances folded over to see where it fell), and determined I needed to remove 1" so the jacket wasn't longer than the shorts. I took 1/2" above the waist and 1/2" below. In the end I shortened the hem another inch so you can just see that shorts under it. Next time I would take a full inch above the waist. I ended up raising the button/buttonhole too. 

The Fabric: This is European 100% Linen from Fabric.com in Natural. I bought it last year with this jacket in mind and ordered a little extra for the shorts. I've sewn with this fabric in other colors, so I already knew I liked the weight, drape, and durability. I love the linen rumple texture it gets after washing. The front for the jacket calls for a full sized fused interfacing. Would do something different next time. The linen and the synthetic interfacing are at odds with each other, and the front of the jacket is a little stiff. Was trying to stretch my boundaries when I picked this rather light color, but I think I'll make another darker version for when I feel content in my rut. 

The lining fabric is Cotton + Steel Picnic Lawn Sunday Dress also from Fabric.com. I thought the dots would be a neutral enough print to wear with most anything. But, it's not quite neutral enough. I find myself choosing tops based on the tiny slivers of lining print at the sleeve, which was not how I wanted this to work. Otherwise, the fabric is a solid choice for a jacket lining, and works well with the weight of the linen. 

The Outfit: The tank is an Ogden Cami by True Bias. I made it last summer and it's a wardrobe staple, even in this bold print. The shorts are my standard self-drafted pattern, made in the same fabric as the jacket. I wear some version of this pattern all summer (and most of the spring and fall, and now that I have a corduroy pair, most of the winter too). I just can't be bothered to wear something that doesn't fit just right. Eventually, the fashion pendulum will swing far enough that I have to change, but not yet. 

Details:

Jacket Pattern: Heather Blazer by Friday Pattern Company

Jacket Fabric: European 100% Linen in Natural from Fabric.com

Jacket Lining Fabric: Cotton & Steel Picnic Lawn Sunday Dress Navy from Fabric.com

Tank Pattern: Ogden Cami by True Bias

Tank Fabric: Block Print from Etsy

Shorts Pattern: Self-drafted

Shorts Fabric: Same as Jacket

Handmade Fall Layers

I made some pants, and I really like them. I actually have a lot to say about these pants. They're self-drafted, but I think I'll leave all of that for a topic specific post. Today, I'm just going to go over the specifics of this outfit, and ease myself back into outfit posts. 

The pants are the newest garment I've sewn. I wanted some pull on tapered pants. I had two different strategies for creating them. The approach I took with these pants was to taper my self-drafted wide leg pants pattern. It was the easiest way to get to the end result, and I'm pretty happy with them. I used the Dani Pants leg lining it up just below the hip where the leg widths were the same and used that to taper the leg. I usually do a 26" inseam when I make these with wide legs, but added 1" for this version. I also added a few inches for a fold up cuffed hem. 

I've been sewing this self-drafted pattern since 2015. This is probably my 10th or 11th pair including shorts versions. You can read more about the drafting process here. The time and effort I put into drafting my own has definitely paid off.

I've been tinkering with a couple different approaches to pull on tapered pants. After a few iterations I learned for my own experience and basted the pants together, before cutting the pockets, to check the fit before I went all in with the finish. It would be a real bummer to serge up the sides only to discover my feet don't fit though the leg openings. That didn't actually happen, but I'm beginning to anticipate failure, and learn from mistakes. 

The fabric is Robert Kaufman14 wale corduroy in Rust from fabric. com. It'slovely fabric. I love, love, LOVE the color. I've been searching for nail polish this color all through the fall, but pants work just as well.  I was a little worried the nappy fabric would attract lint, but so far that concern seems unfounded. The are wearing very well. 

I'm wearing them with my Hilary Top, pattern by Tessuti Fabrics, that I've blogged before. This fabric goes with everything and nothing and works well with the color of these pants. 

The sweater is the one off (actually 2), no pattern, version of the kids' Passing Showers Tee. I won't share much about this as I still have the best intentions of sharing more about  making this size at some point, but don't feel like figuring it out not. 

Not gonna lie, wearing 3 handmade piece has me feeling pretty proud of myself. Wearing 2 pieces of my own design has me feeling so smug I can barely stand to be in the same room with myself. It's got volume, it's got texture, it's mixed media. What's not to love? I could, and probably should, feign humility, but this outfit makes me feel like a million bucks. 

Outfit Details:

Pants Pattern: Self-drafted some details here

Pants Fabric: Robert Kaufman 14 Wale Corduroy in Rust from Fabric. com

Shirt Pattern: Hilary Top by Tessuti Fabrics

Shirt Fabric: Block Print Cotton from Etsy

Shirt Details: Here

Sweater Pattern: My own

Sweater Yarn: O-wool Balance color Natural

Short, Shorter, Shortest: 3 Cropped Mandy Boat Tees

Looking for the most bang for my very limited sewing time, I made a trio of the Tessuti Fabrics Mandy Boat Tee. The Mandy is a super simple knit top with perfectly relaxed proportions. The swingy body, snug arms, and collarbone sweeping neckline make it my wardrobe refresh garment of the moment.  There are 2 sleeve lengths included in this FREE! pattern. I made size 2 (small/medium) for all 3 tops.   I added 1" to the 3/4 length option. The prescribed hem length is around hip length. I cropped mine at 3 different lengths to in search of my crop top ideal with high waisted pants. 

Short

Let's start with the short (which is actually the longest) top. This exercise was meant to be a bit of a length experiment. I knew I wanted cropped tees, but I wasn't quite sure how cropped. I was hedging my bets with the first top and cropped it 5". I pinned up this version to test drive the shorter lengths. After wearing it for a while, I think this one has scissors in it's future. It's a bit too long for what I had in mind. 

I'm wearing this Mandy with my very favorite self-drafted linen pants. 

Shorter

After trying on the Short version, I cut 2 more inches off the next Shorter top (shortened 7" total). I LOVE this length. It is clearly within the crop top trend but is still totally wearable, and covers all the bits of fairly modest me. This is definitely my cropped Mandy sweet spot. I'm not temped to tuck it in, and it works with my vast collection of high waisted pants and shorts. This will definitely be a warm weather staple. The navy and white stripe cotton jersey is (sold out) from Blackbird Fabrics.

I'm wearing this Mandy with some self-drafted linen shorts I made a few summers ago. 

Shortest

The Shortest top is actually the inspiration for the crop top exercise. I wanted to play with the clashing and coordinating qualities for the burgundy, crimson, and peach of the tencel skirt, and cotton jersey shirt fabrics. I also wanted the top to show a bit of the narrowest part of my waist to get the proportions that I wanted. I think the proportion and color results are spot on. I love the hint of narrow waist juxtaposed with the exaggerated width of the top. The thing I forgot to consider is what is just above this extra high waisted skirt, my boobs! In truth it falls a little short (pun intended) on the wearability scale. I worry I'm just a gentle breeze away from a wardrobe malfunction. I'll certainly wear it with this super high waisted skirt (and a presentable bra), but not with other pants. I think I have enough fabric to make another, slightly longer, one. And I'm not above making or owning 2 nearly identical shirts.

I'm wearing this Mandy with the self-drafted skirt from a couple posts ago. The crimson and peach cotton jersey is from Blackbird Fabrics. The tencel twill skirt fabric is from Fabric.com. 

Supply List:

T-shirt Pattern: Mandy Boat Tee by Tessuti Fabrics

Short:

Cropped 5"

Fabric: From my stash

Shorter:

Cropped 7"

Fabric: Navy and White Cotton Jersey (sold out) from Blackbird Fabrics

Shortest:

Cropped 9"

Fabric: Crimson and Peach Cotton Jersey from Blackbird Fabrics

Denim Wiksten Haori & Liberty Linen Inari Tee

It's spring refresh time, and the weather in Philadelphia is actually cooperating. To fully embrace the cherry blossoms and 70 degree days, I'm lightening up my layers and my color scheme with the Wiksten Haori, Inari Tee, and self-drafted pants.

The Wiksten Haori fabric is Robert Kaufman 10oz Denim in Washed Bleached Indigo (out of stock, link to similar) from Fabric.com*. I like the outer wear feel of the heavy weight fabric. I didn't line it because it felt a little precious, but after wearing it a few times I'm wishing I had lined it in flannel for an even cozier jacket. 

I sewed a medium based on my measurements. It is generously sized, next time I might size down depending on the fabric. The only minor alteration I made was to add a 3" sleeve hem facing to make a cuff so you don't see the hem when rolled. 

I've been meaning to make the Inari Tee since it was first released years ago. I'm not sure what I've been waiting for, this fabric maybe. The design is just as relevant and easy wearing today as it was when it came out. So I'll still get years of wear out of it. 

The Inari Tee by Named Clothing (got mine at Indie Sew) is made with Liberty Fabric Louis Sycamore Linen from Fabric.com*. I can't say enough about this fabric. It's got the delicate drape of a good linen and the sophisticated Liberty print and color scheme. I only needed one yard to make the top, making it about the most cost effective garment use possible. 

I sewed a size 10 based on my measurements with no modifications. I'm a sucker for a good finish, but I sure made a project out of a project with this one. First I added depth to the neck facing so I could fold the edge under, then I remembered I had the nicely contrasting pink linen so I ripped out the fold and bound the edge instead. I also bound the hem edge so no unsightly serged edges would show. 

Details:

Jacket Pattern: Wiksten Haori by Wiksten

Jacket Fabric: Kaufman 10 oz denim in Washed Bleached Indigo (similar) from Fabric.com*

Shirt Pattern: Inari Tee/Dress by Named Clothing

Shirt Fabric: Liberty Fabrics Louis Sycamore Linen from Fabric.com*

Pants Pattern: Self Drafted

Pants Fabric: Tencel Twill II from Blackbird Fabrics (color out of stock)

SweetKM Cowl Sweater & Seamwork Neenah

It's February and it seems like I've been cold for day, weeks, months maybe. I've had layers on the brain, warm fleecy layers. This combination is a self-drafted cowl neck sweater on top for warmth, and a snug Neenah Turtleneck from Seamwork to lock in the body heat. I'm wearing them here with my denim Persephone Pants by Anna Allen that I blogged about before. 

This self-drafted sweater is the third iteration of a sweater pattern I started playing with last year. You can see the original version here, and I may blog about it before spring. After playing with the layers with the first sweater I decided I wanted a giant thick cowl sweater to wear over another turtleneck. My sister is pretty sure I got the two turtleneck idea from my mom. Maybe I did, but I definitely got my tendency to be perpetually cold from her. I liked the idea of the underlay peaking out at neck and sleeves.  

To make the giant cowl I made a dickie size sample to make sure I could get it over my head and was as enormous as my vision. I used the basic body shape of the pervious sweater but cut 5" off the length. I measured the front from the wrong line on my pattern and ended up taking a bit extra off, but I like the exaggerated difference between the front and the back at the side slit. The sleeves have a 3" cuff and can be worn folded or straight. 

The brown fabric is Rayon Sweatshirt Fleece in Cocoa from Fabric.com*. I can't say enough about this fabric. The cotton makes it very sturdy and cozy and the rayon gives it a drape that makes it feel more dressed up than your average sweatshirt. I would buy it again in every color. 

I've been meaning to try the Neenah Turtleneck pattern by Seamwork forever. But I sometimes get stuck in a rut with a pattern that works and I don't take the time to try something new. I really like this form fitting turtleneck style, and would make it again. 

The fabric is a Rayon Spandex Jersey knit in black and tan (similar) from fabric .com*. The light weight is great for a bottom layer, but paired with the slim fit, I might not wear it on its own very often. 

Details:

Cowl Sweater Pattern: Self-Drafted

Cowl Sweater Fabric: Rayon Sweatshirt Fleece from Fabric.com*

Turtleneck Pattern: Neenah Turtleneck by Seamwork 

Turtleneck Fabric: Rayon Spandex Yarn Dyed Stripe (similar) from Fabric.com*

Pants Pattern: Persephone Pants by Anna Allen Clothing

Pants Fabric: 10oz. Denim from Indie Sew 

*Fabric.com links are affiliate links.

Ladder Stripe Lou Box Top & Wide Leg Pants

Since moving early last summer, I have collected quite a stash of uncut yardage purchased with big plans and the best intentions, but no actual time to sew. (There's no better way to quantify a fabric hoarding problem than to move!) This fall I'm determined to work through that guilty pile with a little something to refresh my fall wardrobe. These are my go-to self-drafted pants, and my very favorite pattern to hack, the Lou Box Top from Sew DIY.

The pants are my standard wide leg pants pattern that I drafted a few years ago. I am so heavily invested in this style (current count - 6), can we all please agree that they will never go out of style?! I used the medium weight Tencel Twill II from Blackbird Fabrics for this version. This Camel color is sold out, but I'm also loving Penny. I wanted something a bit more substantial for fall than my linen versions, but with a drape that doesn't stifle the width. This fabric is so swishy and soft I'm tempted to make a pair in every color!

I saw a top similar to this one somewhere on the internet, and I've had it tucked into a dusty little corner of my brain ever since. The Lou Box Top is basically two pieces, a front and a back. I cut each piece parallel to the center line about 2 inches from the neck opening. Then added a seam allowance to each side of the cut. I cut the outer piece parallel to the grain of the fabric, and the center piece perpendicular to the grain to create this ladder stripe pattern. To make the button back I added 2" to the center back. I used a 1" strip of fusible interfacing 1/2" from the raw edge of the center back pieces for the button placket. Then turned a 1/2" fold, then a 1" fold one each side of the back. Then stitched as close to the fold as I could to sew down the placket. I was torn as to weather I should match the buttons/holes to the stripe pattern but in the end decided that made the buttons either awkwardly close, or awkwardly far apart so I just spaced them 3". You'll find a few images for how-to make the hack at the end of this post. 

The fabric is a yarn dyed cotton linen stripe from Fabric.com*. It's the perfect weight for an unstructured top, but it is a tad see through on the white stripes. I was careful to position a thick blue stripe across my bust line. 

HOW-TO HACK THE LOU BOX TOP

click for larger image

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Details:
Shirt Pattern: Lou Box Top from Sew DIY
Shirt Fabric: Cotton/Linen Stripe from Fabric.com*
Pants Pattern: Self-drafted Wide Leg Pants
Pants Fabric: Tencel Twill II in Camel from Blackbird Fabrics

*Fabric.com links are affiliate links.