Learn how to make your own quilt binding to use on this cute quilted bag.

Now that the full size Morris Tote sewing pattern has launched (the big brother of the Mini Morris Tote with a few added features #wholeclothmorris) and the sewalong video tutorial is live, I thought it would be a good time to add to the catalog of skill building videos on the Wholecloth Patterns Youtube channel. If you're a beginner sewer these short videos will help you learn individual sewing techniques that are used to sew garments, quilts, and most especially bags.

Both Wholecloth Morris Totes use double fold, straight grain binding to finish the quilted edges and the seams. This is a classic quilt finishing technique that seemed fitting to use for this quilted bag style. Straight grain binding is simple, sturdy, and as well suited to bag sewing as it is to quilt making. For this design I use double fold straight grain binding because the second fold makes it easier to adjust along the back side of the fabric when you're covering multiple layers of thick quilted fabric. I'm reining in my inner maximalist by using light weight denim for the tutorial because it's easy for the viewer to see the difference between the right side and the wrong side of the fabric. Please let your inner maximalist fly free, the binding is a great opportunity to mix prints, use up scraps and add subtle detail to this simple bag. Check out #wholeclothmorris on Instagram for more binding inspiration, and please share your finished bags there. I would love to see them!

Bias Binding vs. Straight Grain Binding

Both bias cut and straight grain binding look more or less the same, but they have one key difference that determines which one to use for your project. Straight grain binding, as the name suggests is cut along the grain of the fabric, as in the fibers that run the length and width of the fabric. It is very strong, stable, and has no stretch. It lends itself to finishing long straight edges like quilts or rectangular bags, and will create an even line along the edge of your project. Bias binding, also as the name suggests, is cut on the bias of the fabric, meaning it is cut at a 45 degree angle to the grain. This creates a very flexible binding that has quite a bit of stretch. It lends itself to finishing curved edges of garments or bags. The stretch allows it to hug curves without bunching, but can result in a small amount of inconsistency in the width as you push and pull it around curves. Bias binding is used to finish the interior seams for the Wholecloth Fairmount Bag, and you can find my video tutorial for making it on Youtube.

A full How-to Make Your Own Double Fold Straight Grain Binding video tutorial (perfect for learning how to make your own quilt binding too!) is on the Wholecloth Patterns Youtube channel now. Or check out the cliff notes below.

How-to Make Your Own Straight Grain Binding

Supplies to Make Fabric Binding

To made the double fold, straight grain fabric binding you will need some light weight woven fabric, a ruler, tailor's chalk, scissors and an iron. You will want to use a woven fabric like cotton or linen that is easy to work with and holds creases when it is ironed.

1. Find the grain of your fabric.

The fabric grain runs parallel to the selvedge edge of the fabric. If you're cutting on the grain make a fold parallel to the selvedge (and the threads that run along the length of the fabric) and is at least 1" deep. Here I'm cutting my binding across the grain, which also works for straight grain binding. Make sure the fold is perpendicular to the grain (which will be parallel to the threads that run across the fabric) so it doesn't stretch, and is at least 1" deep. Press the fold to make a crease.

2. Mark the fabric.

Use chalk to mark a line 1" from the fold the whole length of the fabric. The binding will have a finished width of 1/2". If you'd like yours to be a different width you can easily double your desired finished measurement.

3. Cut.

Cut along the line you've just made. You now have a 1" folded strip of fabric.

4. Join strips for longer binding.

If your binding isn't long enough you can join two pieces together. With the folds opened up so the fabric is flat, and right sides together overlap the ends of the strips so they form a 90 degree angle. The strips form a square where they overlap. Sew diagonally across this square connecting the outer corners of the square as shown in the picture above.

5. Grade the seam.

Trim the seam allowance to 1/4", press the seam allowance to one side. Refold the joined strips along the center crease.

6. Fold one side.

Open the folded strip. Fold one long edge toward the wrong side so that it is just shy of the center fold. Press this new fold into the length of the fabric. Be careful not to disturb the center crease.