Gingham Archer

I made a brown shirt, and while it may not seem like much, I am going to share it with you because it is an important step toward a button up shirt that fits me like a glove. This shirt does not fit me like a glove, but in the evolution of button up shirts it has brought me from button-up-shirt-homo-habilis to button-up-shirt-homo-erectus. We are well on our way to button-up-shirt-modern-man. This is the Archer View A from Grainline Studio. 

I am rather curvaceous (i.e. pear shaped). My bust is two sizes smaller than my hips by most sizing standards. As I know that standard is as standard does, I don't let the discrepancy bother me. I own one ready to wear button up that I like and is relatively flattering. My first Archer was a view B which eliminated the tricky fit at the hips issue. But I find that Archer to be a bit large in the shoulders. This Archer view A is a 4 at the shoulders, graded to an 8 at the hips, then let out as much as possible at the bottom edge of the hem. Spoiler alert, I should have graded to a 10 at the hips. The worst part is that I made a 4/6/8 Archer View A last winter, made the exact same alteration at the hip, and didn't learn a thing from the experience. It would seem impossible to sew between those sizes and not end up with a proper triangle, but as I have that ready to wear shirt that I like (and an oversized dose of self confidence), I'm going to persevere. 

I bought this fabric from Mood over 2 years ago, so I'm sure its long gone now. It's cotton shirting with a subtle purple undertone to the darkest squares of the gingham. I bought it with the Archer pattern before I had the guts to actually take on a project this complex. The fact that I no longer consider this a complex project gives me warm fuzzies about my journey up the sewing learning curve. 

I've made 6 to 7 collared button up shirts, and this is the first one with a legit top buttonhole. I usually fake it in some way because my old sewing machine just wasn't capable of a buttonhole on such a narrow stretch with varied layers of fabric. Let's face it, a collar stand is rough terrain. New sewing machine, no more faking. 

While we're on this picture may I draw your attention to the perfectly matched pockets (used the Alder pocket). I may not impress you, but I sure impress myself. (Please accept this as sarcasm rather than narcissism.)

This top button gem is lifted from a ready to wear shirt. When faced with the vast expanse of brown and tan I felt the need to add a little something. So I added one teal buttonhole and button thread.

I'm gonna be reckless and say this plain brown shirt will look great under the Snoqualme Cardigan just out from Brooklyn Tweed. Every knitter with a pulse just reconfigured her must-knit list to accommodate this sweater, and I am no different. I hate to lead anyone to believe I will actually make the sweater (I know too well how I operate, and that sweater is a serious time investment).  If I do, this top will be faded and thread bare by the time I finish, but a girl can dream. 

The End.