Ponte Knit Morris Blazer

For a few minutes after the Morris Blazer pattern was available for purchase from the Grainline Studio pattern shop, I thought I would be able to resist the temptation to buy it. I already have, and love, the Salme Cropped Blazer. But then... then I realized it was written for stable knits, and that I could really use a Me Made outer layer that I didn't have to knit myself. Coupled with my first trip to the remnants basement at Gaffney Fabrics (on Germantown Ave. in PHL), where I picked up some lovely ponte stripe for a song (2 yards, 5 dollars!!). The pattern is $12, making the whole blazer $17! H&M can't compete with that price. I should have known it wouldn't be that simple. After giving the pattern a skim I realized the ponte is interfaced, what do you face a knit with?!? The pattern doesn't offer any specific recommendations. I'm sure the topic will get a thorough going over during the sew along, but I can't wait for the sew along, I want this blazer yesterday. Quick web search offered the suggestion of bias knit fusible interfacing (from Emma One Sock). I don't keep that on hand (mainly because I've never heard of it). I was pretty worried this would be a special order kind of thing, but the Flieshman's in Fabric Row actually had knit fusible interfacing in stock (in two colors!) for something like $5/yard. Interfacing brings my grand total to $21. It's not really about the price, goodness knows no sane sewist goes about it to save money, but I find the economics of the handmade learning curve mildly interesting.

This is certainly not the most interesting unblogged item in the enormous pile of unblogged items on the floor of my sewing room, but it is on my body today, and the tripod is already set up for upper body shots, so let's get the ball rolling with something easy.

This pattern really let's Jen Beeman's (aka Grainline Studio) pattern design skills shine. It's easy to get bogged down in the complexity of your first two or three Archer Button Ups, and no really see how perfectly considered all the details are. The Morris Blazer is a very simple construction, but no connection is overlooked. The jacket is unlined, and I knew I wanted it to look nice on the insides, so I did french seams at all of the long seams on the inside (center back, sides, under arm, sleeve attachment). I was a little worried I would still end up with an ugly line of serging at the back neck, as I assumed the collar facing was attached like a collar band, but I was wrong. This pattern actually call for hand stitching at the back neck. It seems that many pattern designers aim for complete machine finishing on their garments. Maybe they think the needle and thread might be off putting, so I often do a bit of hand sewing for sleeker finishes. The hand finishing at the collar conceals the only seam that might be visible when the Morris Blazer is on the hanger. My only less than perfect seam is at the shoulder. I might try to finagle a french seam there next time, but I'm not certain it's possible with the precise connection where the shoulder meets the neck (thoughts if you've made one?)

You could question the wisdom in french seaming knits, but as I only know enough to be dangerous, we'll just have to wait and see.

FABRIC: Ponte knit from Gaffney Fabrics physical location, they do have a virtual shop too. 2 yards of 60" fabric was plenty to match the 1" stripe. It's a tiny bit drapier than I would like, making a wave along the points at the front.

PATTERN: Morris Blazer from Grainline Studio is an open front unlined blazer. The pattern is written for stable knits or stretch woven fabrics. As with my previous experience with Grainline patterns, this one is well written and well sized.

SIZE/FIT: I cut a 6 for bust, sleeves and length, but graded to an 8 at the side seams (actual measurements - Bust: 34.5", Waist: 29.5"). Considering the open front to this blazer, a straight 6 probably would suffice, but better safe than sorry.

Have you been following along with Me Made May? I'm posting most of my daily homemade outfits on instagram. Check out the hashtag #memademay15 to see what the international sewing community is wearing.

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Pertinent Info:
Jacket Pattern: Morris Blazer from Grainline Studio
Jacket Fabric: Ponte Knit from Gaffney Fabric in Philadelphia
Top Pattern: Tiny Pocket Tee from Grainline Studio (make last year)
Top Fabric: Rober Kaufmann Chambray Union Light Indigo