Monday, July 20, 2015

Lou Box Dress

This cinched at the waist silhouette is one I wear often. I had my eye on a dress sort of like this from Gap. I even considered going to the mall to try it on, but I would rather dance naked in the street than go shopping. Then I considered ordering online, which would require multiple sizes just to be safe, resulting in a trip to the mall so I could return the one that doesn't fit, which brings us back to dancing naked.  I decided to save myself some grief and do that dress one better with some jean-esque topstitching, a pieced bias binding, and an open back.
PATTERN: Lou Box Top by Sew DIY with an altered back and self-drafted skirt. I used the upper piece of the Lou Box Top pattern for the bodice (this pattern has several hem variations and the top and hem are separate pattern pieces that you connect to make a specific variation), adding 1/2" of length and 1/2" of seam allowance (1" total). I pushed the neck opening toward the shoulder 1/2" at each shoulder seam, and curved the new point into the original center front. The back center opening makes a V down the center back seam.

The skirt is cut as a separate piece. At the waist it is the same width as the bottom of the bodice (obviously), then it flares slightly to the hip, then is straight from hip to hem. There is a 5" slit up the back, and a 2" hem. The waist seam is straight, next time I could curve them slightly so the blousiness of the middle is the same as the sides. I would also add pockets. Pockets Kristi! No dress is ever finished without pockets! I got so engrossed in just the right seam finishing that I completely forgot to put in pockets. Next time...

I wanted to finish this dress with similar topstitching to the chambray top I made with the same pattern.   I decided to limit myself to topstitching the shoulder seam, and the back center seam, that then goes in a continuous loop around the neck opening. It took a bit of fussing to get the topstitching just right, especially at the turn, and I though long and hard about the order of assembling the pieces to achieve the look

FABRIC: Light Weight Denim from Joann Fabric. This fabric is a great bang for your buck, I use it a lot for the first attempt at new patterns. It is 57" wide and I used 4'. My soon-to-be-signature pieced bias binding is made with scraps of cotton stripe, and Liberty London Betsy A Tana Lawn.
I love the Lou Box Top. I hate to admit that I was very skeptical about the minimal shaping when I first laid eyes on the pattern pieces, but I was so foolishly wrong. I have made four (left to right): this dress, a knit version I never blogged, a chambray version, and a broken stripe version. The chambray version I made as a pattern tester is by far my most worn handmade garment. This pattern looks great on everyone. I love this variation with a contrasting pocket, or this one with Nani Iro blocking at the top, or Lauren's layered look. Its very simple to make, easy to wear, and a breeze bend to your will.


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Pertinent Info:
PATTERN: Lou Box Top by Sew DIY
FABRIC:Light Weight Denim from Joann Fabric




9 comments:

  1. You make a dress that could look very frumpy on me look fantastic! Loving this silhouette and simple fabric. Gorgeous!

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    1. Thanks Shelley! The real question is...can't I bike in it?! :)

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    2. Oh I think so. You can always hitch a bit more under the waistband and flash some of those lovely legs. Or tuck it in your knickers like we did when we were young! :)

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  2. Very pretty. Love the back crossover!

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  3. I don't wear this silhouette very well either, but it looks really fab on you! Have definitely had those times where I'd actually just prefer to buy something but then can't find exactly what I want when I go shopping, so then there's that "OKAY FINE I'LL MAKE IT INSTEAD" moment. We're lucky to be able to do that!

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    1. It's a blessing/curse situation. Sometimes (usually when I'm still sewing at 2am) I wish I had just bought what I wanted!! :)

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  4. I adore that pieced binding. It looks so cool! The dress really suits you, as well. You seem to sew very deliberately, things that you know will suit and fit you well. I really admire that.

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    1. Thanks Masha. It seems like all warm weather tops have a bias binding, using scraps spices things up for the sewist.

      I know what I like, and I just keep on making more of it! I like the idea of sewing many of a certain type of garment until it's just about perfect. Haven't reached perfection yet...

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