Monday, October 10, 2016

Nani Iro Raw Edge Marthe Blouse

I'm feeling a little all dressed up with no place to go, wearing more sparkle and frill than than you usually encounter on a Tuesday. This is the Marthe Blouse from Republique du Chiffon. After seeing Ingrid's top, and Sophie's top, and Nicoletta's fantastic dress version I wanted to see what all the fuss was about. 

The Marthe Blouse is a woven raglan sleeve peplum top with a button or zip back closure. This is my first time sewing with Republique du Chiffon. The instructions are pretty sparse, and seam allowances are not included, but the pattern is well drafted, and the sizing is spot on. The details of most Republique du Chiffon patterns are feminine without being too romantic. I'm not a ruffle, or ruching kind of girl, but the simple designs, and modern styling minimize the fluff. 
The whole point of making this top was to have ample opportunity to use the unique double gauze selvage at the sleeve edge. Japanese Nani Iro double gauze is made of two woven layers, tacked together at intervals. I'm not sure how it's made, but it seems like it's woven in a tube, then flattened and tacked. Both selvages are just a creased fold. Even with the Nani Iro label at the edge, it's a very clean finish. I wanted to include the selvage and the text on the finished garment. I did this with a Scout Tee I made last year, using the selvage at the sleeve openings. When I realized the peplum on the Marthe Blouse was just a rectangle I decided to use the selvage there too. The only problem, (and there's always a problem) I didn't have enough fabric, but I cut into it anyway. 

Most of this delicious Nani dot came from Miss Matatabi (located in Japan). When I realized I didn't have enough, I was in a hurry to finish so I ordered another yard from Imagine Gnats, in the hope that it would arrive more quickly. My fabric arrived dazzlingly fast (thanks Rachel!). I was assuming the two fabrics would be from different dye lots, and the colors might not match perfectly. That angst was unfounded. The color and quality of both fabrics are an absolutely perfect match. BUT, when I got the American fabric I realized it doesn't have the same selvedge finish!! I wasn't about to blow more money on more of the same fabric, so I turned under the tiniest bit and did a zig zag hem. You would never notice if I didn't tell you, but after going on and on about the lovely selvedge I thought I should alert you to the difference.
I love the metallic sheen of the dots. It makes the fabric seem like you're wearing something far more lux than cotton. I couldn't resist matching it up with beefy earrings and shiny sandals. Now, to find someplace to wear this get up!

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Details:
Pants: Purchased (similar)
Sandals: Purchased (similar)
Earrings: Shale Earrings from Bario Neal

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8 comments:

  1. I love the Nani Iro selvages! I'm also planning on a top with the selvage at the sleeve ends. This one is gorgeous too!

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    1. Thanks! I think the writing along the edges adds a nice touch.

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  2. Ooh fancy! So lovely! Hope you went somewhere swish! I'm not one for ruffles normally either but thought I'd give the free In The Folds top a go this summer.

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    1. Oooh, I love that one too! I trying to expand the range of styles I wear and sew. Everything can't be a button down shirt...or can it! :)

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  3. Oooo it's so pretty! That nani iro double gauze is like wearing a cloud.

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    1. It really is, and all the gathers make it a big fluffy cumulus! :) All that volume takes some getting used to.

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  4. Looks fantastic! How odd that the selvedges differed between cuts.
    That's an outfit that could easily go somewhere fancy but could also just knock everyone's socks off at school pick up!

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    1. I'm guessing the fabrics were made in different countries (or maybe just factories). I thought all double gauze had that folded edge. Must do more research (i.e. fabric shopping!).

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