Heritage Fabric Midi Skirt & Cropped Dress No. 1

Did April Rhodes peak inside my closet's soul when she designed the Heritage fabric line?! It goes with everything I own. This red Treasured Kermes print is a colorful counterpoint to the usual rhythm of my plain clothes uniform. I could wear it at least 6 ways with the denim, chambray, and cinnamon I already own. 

When I whacked the bottom off of this dark wash denim Dress No. 1 my first thought was "love it!" my second, "now what do I do with it?" That problem didn't last long when I hung it up next to this self-drafted midi, then tossed the clunkier of my pipe necklaces over the hanger hook. It's a harbinger of good things ahead when the makes on the clothes rack all go together. 

As soon as I realized this print was in rayon I knew I was going to make a midi skirt. I've made this skirt a few times in the past (first, second), and a new one was on the shortlist for spring sewing. This pull-on skirt is really easy to wear, and the flow of rayon elevates the simple style. I was a little worried that the bold colors, and detailed print of the Treasured Kermes design would be too far outside of my  normal uniform, but when I saw it in person I knew the tans, blues, and creams would make the saturated red very wearable. 

After Me Made May I realized I have a lot of garments from when I first started sewing for myself that I don't wear for small fit and fabric reasons. I really loved Dress No. 1 when I made it, but it's a little short of my taste, and shrank quite a bit since I made it. Strategic cutting allowed me to make the bottom into a skirt for L without even moving the pockets. 

Crop tops make me think of the belly bearing styles of the 80's. Pairing a cropped trapeze top with a high waist  bottom, creates more demure proportions.  I could see this top with cigarette pants, or a pencil skirt, but then I would have to concentrate on sucking in my stomach all day. The flowing volume on the bottom is more forgiving, so I can give my stomach muscles a break. 

***
Skirt Pattern: Self-Drafted Midi Skirt
Skirt Fabric: Treasured Kermes Rayon from Finch Knitting & Sewing Studio
Top Pattern: Modified Dress No. 1 by 100 Acts of Sewing
Top Fabric: 4oz. Denim from Joann Fabrics
Necklace: My own DIY Curved Pipe Tutorial 

Dress No. 1

Every so often I get a feeling that I've read the entire internet. Like everything is one more blog blitz of the t-shirt du jour barely distinguishable from yesterday's t-shirt du jour and I'm just incredibly bored by the whole thing (though very grateful for the wide selection of t-shirts). Just in the nick of time along comes the Have Company sew along using the 100 Acts of Sewing Dress No. 1 by Sonya Philip. Two weeks ago I didn't know what any of those thing were. Like a breath of virtual fresh air sweeping across my interweb browser Have Company brought the lovely 100 Acts of Sewing pattern line into my life. 100 Acts of Sewing patterns are only available in print. It's been 100 years since I've sewn with a real physical pattern. The hand of the maker is so clearly visible in the simply improvised packaging, and concise format of the pattern and instructions. If sewing alone in a spare bedroom can ever be a communal experience, this was.

 I really thought I was going to look like a sorry sack of potatoes in this dress.  Where are all the bells and whistles? How could something so simple possibly turn out well? I'm a less is more kind of girl, but I know that less usually costs a whole lot more because it's more work to make something with so few elements look good. This dress has no where to hide. As I was sewing I was schemeing about belts and tie strings and a strategically placed hand-on-hip to photograph a dress that I would never wear.

Knucklehead! This dress is awesome.

The Dress No. 1 pattern is a single piece, plus a pocket. The front and back are the same piece, and there are instructions that show how to make the neck shape whatever you want. I shaved about 1/4" off of mine, and added a tiny scrap of Liberty to the back neck in lieu of a tag. The side shaping is fitted at the bust, straight-ish to the waist and full on flared to the hem. The simple construction makes this a really quick sew. Seemed like the perfect opportunity to learn french seams, and I'm glad I did. You can hide half baked seam finishing with ruffles and puffs. I wanted this to look as perfect inside as out. Again with the simplicity thing.

I wore my beloved linen Alder a ton last fall, but I worry that the ghost of Emily Post might stop me in the street and give me a stern reprimand for a seasonal fabric faux pas. This is my go-to light weight denim from Joann in the darkest wash. It's the right price, always available locally, and has a sturdy drape perfect for this dress. There is just enough room for a t-shirt layer under No. 1, so I can wear it with as many layers of tights and boots as I can stand in the winter, and gradually peel off the layers as the weather warms. The depth of the arm hole doesn't allow a speck of bra to show, so I'll wear it in the summer too. I didn't want to distract from the elemental form of this dress so I centered the pockets on the side seam rather than putting them on the front. 

Pertinent info:
Pattern: Dress No. 1 by 100 Acts of Sewing
Fabric: Light Weight Denim from Joann Fabric
For more sewing inspiration: #hcdressalong #100actsofsewing on instagram

Finally, a little something for Selfish Sewing Week. Are you sewing along? Kollabora entry here.