My Chambray Epiphany

I have an ambivilant relationship with pattern testing. On one hand I like the little push outside of my normal aesthetic, the motivation to try something new, or make something I wouldn't normally gravitate toward work with my tastes. On the other hand, there is no sewing community inspiration for a pattern no one has made yet. There is no advice, there is nothing to learn from the success or failures in my instagram feed.

The Lou Box Top is the first pattern from  Sew DIY's. Incase I wasn't clear in the first paragraph, I was a pattern tester. Normally, I would dive right into a project this straight forward, but I have never sewn her designs before (obviously) so I made a muslin. For the muslin I used a sad stiff, light sucking navy knit because it was the only thing I had around that I could stand to cut into. Yikes what a mess. I tried to jazz things up with a scrap of woven floral as an exposed neck, and a tie instead of a button, but there was no redeeming that crappy fabric. That top is destined for Good Will (no offense to Good Will).

I was feeling particularly bad after I saw Debbie's incredible tissue print version in all its drapey glory. I wanted something just as effortlessly simple and cool. I started frantically ordering fabrics online that had no chance of getting to me in time. In the midst of entering my digits into yet another online order form I had an epiphany - when in doubt, use chambray. I have a pretty significant stash of chambray, more that I like to collect than sew with. I held my breath and cut into a precious piece of linen blend, and instantly the project was redeemed (do you hear angels singing? I think its a Christmas miricle).

Is it weird that I had these earrings in mind before I even started sewing? They are from a small company in my neighborhood, and hard to resist when I walk by their window a couple times a week. I'm not that into jewelry, but I am pretty into these earrings. I emailed the link to M enough times that he finally took the hint and bought them for my birthday, which very happily coincided with a boutique sale. It is exactly the sort of thing I want to wear, and if I am going to wear something this big the rest of the outfit has to be subtle.

PATTERN: The Sew DIY Lou Box Top is a dolman sleeve t-shirt pattern written for knit or woven fabrics. There are with two options for the neckline: scoop or crew, and three options for the hemline: straight, dip, or curved (shown). The pattern is drawn as 4 pieces so you can mix and match the tops and bottoms. The line of stitching at about my waist is the break between the pieces. The instructions call for cutting your top and bottom as one piece, but with such a simple pattern and simple fabric I wanted to add a few subtle details. I added 1/2 of seam allowance between the pieces so I could sew them back together then do some jean-like embellishment with golden yellow thread. The instructions are expertly written and illustrated.

FABRIC: This is a long stashed piece of chambray that I think I bought at a local fabric store. It seems to have a bit of linen in it based on its tendency to wrinkle. I learned from my crumby thick knit muslin, that the fabric is key to such a simple top. Choose something with a nice drape, and you will look like a million bucks.

SIZE: I measured a small, I made a small, the small fits like a glove. I was a little worried it would fit at the bust, but not the hip, but that was not a problem.

ALTERATIONS: My only alteration was to separate the top and bottom pieces at front and back. I think the pattern calls for a center seam up the entire back for the woven version, but I only seamed the top piece, so I could jazz up the top stitching. Next time I would add 1" to the length. The split bodice design allows for super simple lengthen/shortening.

Left: Top stitching around the side vent and where the top and bottom pieces meet. Top Right: Back button closure (for the woven version only). Bottom Right: Center back where the top and bottom pieces meet.

In conclusion, the Sew DIY Lou Box Top is a great, infinitely flexible shirt pattern. I am going to churn out a few more of these in linen when warmer weather comes. The simple variations included with the pattern mean you can make quite a few and they will all be different.

Sorry for the bad pun, and please excuse the Holiday decor. I wrote this post before Christmas, but didn't have a chance to squeeze it into December. I'm posting today while those guys on the piano and I can still pretend we did it on purpose!

FOLLOW ALONG!

  

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STYLO Restyled : Worthy Goods Country Ear Flap Hat

My online crafting career started with an Etsy shop in 2010. One of my very first favorite shops was Worthy Goods filled with Dory's effortlessly cozy hats and accessories inspired by her enviable Maine lifestyle. Lucky for the online sewing world her designs are available as PDF patterns. I made the Country Ear Flap Hat for Hansel's Stylo look, and immediately saw it's future potential. So many opportunities for cozy linings (sherpa, fleece, flannel) and durable exteriors (tartan, moleskin, corduroy).

It is really hard to find interesting sewing patterns for little boys that aren't too fussy or too weird (FYI Worthy Goods has other hat patterns!). As everybody already knows, I have a son and a daughter, the Country Ear Flap Hat is exactly the sort of pattern I will make again and again for both kids, and their little friends. I'm starting my Holiday gift making with a bang with two new hats for a couple of J's friends. They are reasonably fast to make, and require little fabric relative to most clothing. Our friends will have toasty warm ears this winter.

PATTERN: Country Ear Flap Hat by Worthy Goods is available in a child's size and two adult sizes. If you've been reading this blog for any length of time you know I love a basic, well fitting pattern that allows for a ton of customization. The Country Ear Flap Hat is exactly that. Simple changes in fabric make each hat totally different. After taping together 7,000 sheets of paper for PDF garment sewing, it's a breath of fresh air that this pattern doesn't require a single piece of tape and consists of only 3 pieces.

FABRIC: The dark green exterior is moleskin, the light green is heavy weight wool blend. Both are lined with bright orange flannel, and the earflaps are lined with faux sherpa. I whole heartedly recommend all the fabrics except the sherpa. I was too cheap to buy the organic cotton, and too impatient to wait for the nicer polyester on back order. In a pinch I bought this at Joann, and the quality is pretty terrible. Next time I would spring for the organic cotton version, the expense is totally worth it to match the quality of the other fabrics and the design. I used a covered button kit for the moleskin. The wool was much to thick for a kit covered button, so I found an acceptable vintage button in my stash.

FIT/SIZE: For Stylo I made J the child size. Its a bit snug, and the boys I have in mind for these hats both have lots of thick hair, so I made the adult small size just incase. This size fits me, but since I also have thick hair, I will be making the adult large for myself. The child size fits L (5) well.

ALTERATIONS/SEWING TIPS: No Alterations. Next time I would cut back the brim facing in a smooth line. I don't remember what the pattern calls for but I instinctively notched it, and the notches show through the moleskin fabric. The wool is a bit thicker and hides this flaw. When I sewed up the brim, I gave all the seams a good pressing before sewing the last one. Its tough to get your iron up into the top of the crown after the whole thing is assembled.

You can find Dory's fantastic ready made accessories and patterns in her Worthy Goods shop. Please check out her website, and I highly recommend her instagram feed for lots of examples of her recent work. I guess I should say I got this pattern for free. I wanted something unique so I went outside of the normal Stylo pattern providers (and outside of my normal introverted comfort zone) and asked Dory if she would give me a copy on my own. Therefore, I feel like my praise is genuine.

The only Stylo piece I have left to highlight is the self drafted vest. I am hoping to share the pattern I made, but as all you sewist can imagine, that is taking longer than I thought. It is very nearly ready...Stay tuned!

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STYLO Restyled : 5 & 10 Design Vo. 1 Dress

For Stylo I wanted a dress that felt a bit like outerwear, and could act as the equivalent piece to the quilted vest in the little boy look. I also wanted inset sleeves, and a ton of very short volume. I settled on the 5 & 10 Designs Vol. 1 Dress. The original look came with all the parts and pieces for Gretel's trail, but will be worn much more simply as L's Christmas dress.

PATTERN: I requested this pattern for the sizing, and didn't really concern myself with the instructions. The versatility is the beauty of a simple pattern like this. I altered the pattern to accommodate buttons along the entire length of the back.  I didn't line the bodice as directed, just used a flannel facing at the cuffs and neck opening. I also used the bonus sleeve pattern piece and added flannel lined pockets stolen from the Oliver + S Playtime Dress. 

FABRIC: This is positively dreamy cotton/linen blend from Michael Levin. If I had had my wits about me yesterday I would have ordered more on sale. This would be perfect for an Alder Dress, its got a nice drape but reasonably substantial weight.

SIZE/FIT: I cut a 6, to allow for maximum boxiness at the waist, and volume in the skirt. I think this pattern runs a little small, because it is still fairly tight in the sleeves. 

I wanted the Stylo look to be scandalously short. But the scandalous length wasn't really practical for real world wear. With a 3 inch hem I got the look I wanted but still had the fabric left to lengthen the dress later. When I dropped the hem, I also added a button to the bottom. Those few tweaks, some red tights, and candle light service worthy maryjanes, and L is ready for Christmas Eve. 

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More STYLO Restyled

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His & Hers Compagnie M Charles Pants

Have you seen the new Charles Pants by Compagnie M? This was my first foray into pattern testing, and with mixed results. I was in the midst of a (not yet released) deadline driven project when I signed up and I didn't read the instructions quite like I should have. Honestly, I never read the instructions quite like I should (husband has stopped reading at this point as a frustrated affirmation of my negligence! :).  I'm a visual thinker, a faithful believer in the show-me-don't-tell-me philosophy of life. Lesson learned, I will be more careful next time. These are my second and third pairs of Charles pants. With the messy first pair out of my system, I'm pretty happy with these.

My favorite thing about the Charles pants is their gender neutrality. Either kid could wear either pair of these pants without a sideways glance from the most conventional passer-by. They are even wearing the same shoes! I love a full skirted dress as much as the next sewist, but I get a real thrill from making something for child #1 (male) that child #2 (female) can wear a few years later without compromising style. Compangnie M is know for little girl clothing, but this boy friendly design has got me excited to see what Marte comes up with next.

PATTERN: Charles Shorts/Pants/Dungerees by Compagnie M. Can be made as pants, shorts, or overalls. This is a simple skinny leg pant pattern with a functioning double sided button fly, and an elastic back waist.

FABRIC: Both the fabrics and buttons are Fabric Row finds. Both are 100% cotton prints sturdy enough to be a bottom weight. The brown on J has the added bonus of being flannel with a subtle herringbone print. I wish I had bought more, by the time I realized J could use a bigger size the fabric had sold out. L's cream and black fine lined plaid has a streak of mustard in it. When I first saw this fabric it brought the Mara Blouse (pattern also by Compagnie M) I made over the summer to mind.

Sadly my go-to PA Fabric Outlet is going out of business. PA Fabric Outlet is my favorite place to blow a spare 1/2 hour recreational shopping. The main appeal is that I can walk there, the button selection is second to none, the sales people leave you alone, and there is a park around the corner to satisfy by shopping companion(s). I'm gonna miss this store, until then I've been burning money there.

FIT: Both kids are wearing a size 6. I had to let the side seams out of J's because they pulled to much with the shirt tucked in. Next time, I would make him a 7 or even an 8 (though he measured as a 6). L probably could have worn a 5, but after seam ripping J's I didn't want to take any chances with them fitting her for the whole winter.

ALTERATIONS: The only alteration I made was to widen the legs about 1" on each side of each leg piece on L's pants. I like the skinny look (particularly on J) but thought I'd mix things up with the second pair, so they aren't too matchy, matchy.

Here she is in her grown up pants looking for all the world as I imagine she will 10 years from now. Already with a perfect eye roll technique.

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Linking to:

Kid's Clothes Week
Straight Grain

Charcoal Lady Skater Hack

Remember selfish sewing week? When I started making this dress I THOUGHT I was getting a head start on selfish sewing (hysterical laughter). Truth is all of my recent sewing, and the focused satisfaction it brings me, feels entirely selfish these days, even when the finished product is meant for the kids. Its seems superfluous to layer on a few things made for me, but I can't resist the siren song of the internet, beaconing me to another group sewing event, even if I've missed said event by a mile.

I have been obsessed with making a knit, gathered waist, long sleeve dress since seeing it in a random Etsy motivational email. It was worn by a random Etsy employee in hunter green. So trite, so new, so my thing. She was sitting down, it was not fashion centric shot, but I was smitten. In fact, when I first saw it I hadn't sewn seriously for myself in years. I like to think my quest to own that dress (without actually shopping for it) is what got me sewing for myself again.  

More than a year later, I have a passable copy of that dress. I'm calling this a Lady Skater hack, because I started with the Kitschy Coo Lady Skater bodice. There were a lot of changes along the way. I chopped a good deal off of the length, and straightened out the curved waist. I lengthened the sleeves to be long without the addition of cuffs, and made the neckline higher and wider (and more what this flat chested lady likes to wear). Learning from my past mistakes  imperfections I made a straight 6, and added pockets (without pockets where do I keep my phone, without my phone how do I check instagram the time). The skirt is my much loved Self Drafted Midi Skirt from a few months ago. Same everything, just tacked onto the bodice rather than a waistband.

The deep charcoal gray heather fabric is a cotton jersey from Mood, it seems far to resilient to be 100% cotton, though I bought it so long ago I can't remember. It's perfect for this dress. My last Lady Skater shrunk like a son of a gun (making it fit better, bonus!), so I'm going to try to keep this one out of the dryer.

I am going to wear the crap out of this dress. It's comfy, it's practical, it can be layered with a thousand different things, and I don't think I own a pair of shoes that wouldn't look good with it. I'm going to get out my fattest sharpie, and cross this thing off of my must-sew list.

There, now I can move on.

The Thumbhole Sleeve T-Shirt Experiment

Who doesn't love a thumbhole t-shirt? I love them, but I'm not a workout wear kind of girl, so I rarely wear them. No more. After a few weeks of intermittent experimentation I have cracked the thumbhole sleeve origami case wide open. Now everyday can be a thumbhole t-shirt day. 

The best part about this little customization is that it can be done with any t-shirt pattern, for children or adults. I'm demonstrating the process with the Oliver + S Field Trip Raglan, but I imagine it would work great with the Flashback Skinny, or the Recess Raglan. 

PREPERATION

Cut 2" off of the length of each sleeve piece. Measure the length of the resulting raw edge, you will need this measurement to make the sleeve cuffs later. Assemble the shirt as indicated in the pattern instructions. Finish the neck and bottom hem. Finish the sleeves as follows:

FOR THE CUFFS

Cut out two rectangles with a length of 10" and a width that is 90% of the length of the trimmed sleeve edge. My size 7 sleeve edge was 8" long. Here's the math:
90% of 8" is .8x8"= 7.2"
Its not an exact science so I rounded to 7.25". I cut my cuffs 7 1/4" x 10"

The cuff is sewn in three segments. The first is split by the fold at the finger edge of the cuff. The second is around the thumbhole. The third is from the thumbhole to the raw edge where it joins to the arm of the shirt.

Even if you normally serge knits, I recommend sewing the cuffs using a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine, because it is easier to control the stopping and starting point of each seam segment. I am sewing with a large zigzag stitch and a contrasting thread to make the stitching easy to see. If your stitches are showing through the final seam like mine, switch to a smaller stitch length and a tighter zigzag stitch.

FIRST SEGMENT

Fold cuff in half lengthwise with right sides together. Using a ruler mark the center of the raw long edge. Measure and mark 1" to either side of the center marking.

Remove the center marking. Using a zigzag stitch sew between the remaining markings. Be sure to backstitch securely at each end.

SECOND SEGMENT (thumbhole opening)

With the cuff positioned as shown on the left above, bring the flaps on the left side together.  

Position right sides together and aligned from the raw edge to the end of the first seam. Position so that the rest of the cuff is tucked up inside and out of the way. Place a pin at the end of the first segment of stitching, to keep the edges flat, and the rest of the cuff out of the way. Use another pin to mark 1 1/2" from the end of the first seam. Using a zigzag stitch, sew between the marks. Get as close to the end of the first seam as possible without overlapping it. It is easiest to start at the end away from the first seam. Be sure to back stitch securely at each end. 

Repeat with the other set of flaps. Turn the work to the right side (as shown above) to be sure you're on the right track. This is the thumbhole opening. 

THIRD SEGMENT
You can see in the above image that there is a set of outer flaps and a set of inner flaps. In the next step you will sew the outer flaps together, and sew the inner flaps together. 

Turn the outer flaps so that you can sew with right sides together. Sew from the bottom edge to the point where the second seam begins. Get as close as you can without overlapping. Be sure to backstitch securely at each end. Repeat with the inner set of flaps.

This is your finished cuff. Repeat with other cuff piece.

Right sides together attach the cuff piece to the sleeve. Align underarm seam of the sleeve with the seam of the cuff. This connection can be made with the serger.

Now this guy sure looks cozy!

I'm adding this humble t-shirt to the KCW pool. Are you sewing for Kid's Clothes Week? This is my first project. I have a thousand planned.

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Featured on Oliver + S!

I heart my Alder Shirtdress

I heart my Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress so much I even managed to take a picture of myself smiling in it! A real triumph of girl vs. the 10 second shutter delay. This dress is such a dream to wear. It will look great with tights and a cardi for fall. It might even look good with leggings and boots for winter, but I'm not sure what the fashion police would say about wearing a linen dress with suede boots in the dead of winter.  It would also look great with Andrea's collar modification for the Archer Button Up. But, I'm getting ahead of myself...

When I started sewing this dress a few weeks ago I could already feel our fall schedule getting away from me. I'm so relieved to have squeezed one more mommy make into the summer before my sewing time falls so low on the list of priorities that my only free hour is between 2 and 3 AM. Normally, after printing a pattern PDF I work straight through until the blog post is finished (I do that with books too, neither are very good my sleep habits). This project went in very frustrating fits and starts (as you'd know if you follow me on instagram, ahem), with lots of thinking about making it when there wasn't a sewing machine for miles.

PATTERN: The Alder Shirtdress pattern view B. It is typical Grainline Studio quality, and minimal instruction. If you're used to the hand holding, tutorial intensive kid's pattern makers, you will find the directions a bit brief. I sewed most of this dress last weekend before the Alder Sew Along was in full swing, so I used the Archer Sew Along to verify the process for making the button band and the collar. I've made a few button down shirts before, but there is always more than one way to skin a cat. The sew along instructions are VERY thorough, and easy to follow. There is even a video for Jen's preferred technique for attaching the collar stand. Worked like a charm.

FABRIC: When I first spread this fabric out on the old kitchen/cutting table, I promised myself to keep an open mind and consider it a muslin. Fretting about sizing and seam ripping creates insurmountable obstacles in my head. I like this fabric, but it's from Joann so its certainly nothing precious, and far from irreplaceable. It doesn't have a particularly smooth finish, but fit the bill for my first try at this dress.  This is the learning curve fabric. I'm not going to over think it, I'm just going to sew something. I played fast and loose with the rules of test bodices and this time I won. I wish I had played around with the direction of the stripes a bit more. I was focused on completing the project on a tight schedule, next time I can be a bit more creative without compromising time. 

FIT: As with the Grainline Tiny Pocket Tee, I cut a 6 at the bust and graded to an 8 at the waist based on my measurements. It's a pretty boxy fit, and I probably could get away with a straight 6. If I cut a 6 I might raise the waistline 1/2" to prevent the seam from actually sitting on my shelf like hips. 

I was a little worried about the collar and the 90 degree seam at the waist before I started sewing. Both worked out far better than I expected, infact I don't think I ripped a single seam for this entire dress. I did rip a few button holes, my machine hates buttonholes. Grrr.

ALTERATIONS: I moved the bust dart up 1", an adjustment I always make with the Tiny Pocket Tank. I usually just eyeball it, but Jen has some dart moving wisdom on her blog. I'm going to chalk it up to incredibly perky boobs, there's no way it's my A cup! I'm toying with the idea of raising the waistline, and possibly lowering the highest part of the hem, but I suspect that Madame Grainline has carefully considered the proportions of her dress, and I hate to monkey with perfection.

Okay, I probably should have ironed, but then how would you know it's linen?!?

I have had the Archer Button Up Shirt pattern pieces taped to the wall in the sewing room since last winter. It was just tooooooo much to think about with all those parts, and pieces, and sizes, and fabrics - for the love off all things crafty! Since then I've made 3 tiny pocket tanks, and this Alder. All were great conditioning to overcome the Archer hurdles in my mind. My hesitation was silly Grainline is a sure thing every time. I guess that's the benefit of the indie desigher/sewist relationship. You can get to know the style of a designer and anticipate how a pattern will work for you before you even print the pdf. I will definitely make this dress again. I have been accumulating 2 yard chunks of various chambrays, just have to decide which will go to the Alder and which will go to the Archer.