Indiesew Fall/Winter : Grainline Studio Tamarack Jacket

Have you seen the Indiesew Fall Collection? It includes 5 great garments that cover all the bases for transitional dressing. I have been meaning to make a second, more versatile, Tamarack Jacket since I made my first one two years ago! Celebrating the Indie Sew Fall Collection was just the kick in the pants I needed to get this coat out of the planning stages, and under the quilting needle. It's the perfect coat for fall. Over a tee, or over a sweater, with a chunky cowl, or totally bare, the Tamarack Jacket is the layer that fills the outwear gap in my handmade wardrobe. 

I love this color! Possibly too much. As with my previous chambray obsession, that I haven't fully recovered from, everything can't be tan. When everything is tan, nothing goes together! Luckily, tan compliments all the black and chambray/denim I've sewn in the past.

I love this fabric (similar)! Which is a relief because when I got it I was worried it would be too plain (is that possible?) to do this pattern justice. But from the second I sewed up the side seams I didn't want to take this jacket off. The arms were wrinkly from wear before I had even finished sewing!

The exterior fabric is Robert Kaufman Essex Linen Blend (similar) in Leather Gold from Fabric.com. The cotton/linen blend gives the fabric a rumpled texture that adds some character to the basic color. (Check out Erica's sleek version in the same fabric, different color!) The interior is Robert Kaufman Mammoth Flannel Plaid in Steel also from Fabric.com. It's deliciously soft and high quality. Mammoth Flannel is pretty sturdy and I was worried it would be too rigid when quilted together with the Essex. Using the 3.5" spaced line quilting pattern, as opposed to the diamond quilting, allows the layers to move even with the thicker fabric.

(Fabric.com links are affiliate links.)

I made a 6/8/10 bust/waist/hip based on my measurements. I suspect I didn't need to go the whole way to 10 at the hips, this pattern has plenty of ease through the body. I chose the newish View B with the snap front opening. And used widely spaced horizontal lines of quilting. The minimal quilting makes the sewing go so much faster than the diamond quilting pattern. The possibilities are endless for fabric combinations and quilting patterns for this jacket. I love Shannon's version with the pieced bottom.

For the interior finishing I added a hanging loop at the neck center back, and bias bound the pocket bags. I took a lucky chance at matching the plaid of the pocket bags with the interior. I serged all of the edges before sewing the seams, then pressed them open and top stitched 1/4" from the seam to tack down the selvage edges.

The Tamarack checks all the boxes for fall layering. Today I'm wearing it was a rolled Fragment Scarf, and Blanc Tee. I can't wait to try it out with my chunky seed stitch cowl, or a turtle neck. The only thing my Tamarack Jacket is missing is weather cool enough to wear it!

TAMARACK JACKET DETAILS
Jacket Pattern: Tamarack Jacket by Grainline Studio from Indiesew
Exterior Fabric: Kaufman Essex Linen Blend (similar color) in Golden Leather from Fabric. com
Interior Fabric: Kaufman Mammoth Flannel in Steel from Fabric. com

WORN WITH
Scarf Pattern: Fragment Scarf Knitting Pattern by SweetKM (blogged here)
T-Shirt: Blanc T-Shirt by Blank Slate Patterns (blogged here)

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October 18 - Grainline Studio

October 20 - My Handmade Wardrobe

October 23 - The Doing Things Blog

October 24 - SweetKM

October 25 - Sew House Seven

October 26 - Threadbear Garments

October 27 - Sew Liberated

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The Tamarack Jacket pattern was provided to me by Indiesew. Please trust that my review is sincere.
Fabric.com links are affiliate links. I purchased and selected the fabrics myself.
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Indie Sew : Biscayne Blouse & Mercer Tunic

It's the Great Tank Bonanza over on Indie Sew, where a bold group of sewists whip up two different summer staple tops to compare and contrast every aspect of fit, and construction. I'm excited to play along because woven tanks have a starring role in my summer uniform. 

Biscayne Blouse by Hey June Patterns

First up is the Biscayne Blouse from Hey June Patterns. This tank has gentle gathers along the front and back neckline, a faced neck band, two pocket options, and a shaped hem. The buttons on the button placket are concealed behind a decorative flap. The Biscayne is ever so slightly more fitted than the Mercer Tunic, though both work great worn loose over skinny pants. For comparison purposes, I'm wearing both tanks with my (often worn, but never blogged) Safran Pants by Deer & Doe. 

My Biscayne is made with the new Art Gallery Fabrics rayon print Mountain Mirror designed by April Rhodes. Rayon is a great choice for a design that really stands out in a drapey fabric. 

I chose my size based on my measurements, and I'm happy with the blousy fit. The only alteration I made was to raise the arm opening 1/2". 

The day I finished making this top I wore it the rest of the day with my Safran Pants as shown above. The very next day I wore it again. Two days in a row! I love it that much. Check out the last image of this post to see how I wore it the second time around.

Mercer Tunic by Whitney Deal

The Mercer Tunic by Whitney Deal is an uber simple top. It has an easy fit through the shoulders, and is oversized through the bust, waist and hips. The design highlights are the button placket, back yoke, gentle gathers at the front and back, and a straight hem. The arm and neck openings are finished with bias binding. The button placket, and yoke are a fun opportunity for color blocking, or using coordinating fabrics. This design has a very boxy cut. The wide shoulder is bordering on a cap sleeve, giving this design a respectable amount of shoulder coverage. 

My Mercer Tunic is made with my very favorite Robert Kaufman Chambray Union Light (also used as the contrasting fabric on the Biscayne Blouse). I sewed one size smaller than my measurements, and this top is still plenty roomy. I also took 2" off of the length so the hem would hit just at my hip. 

Both tanks took about the same amount of time to make from PDF to finished garment. Both are expertly drafted, and instructions are well presented. Either would be a great place to focus on perfecting your partial placket installation skills. I think the Biscayne blouse is a skosh more dressed up than the Mercer Tunic. The professional detailing of both designs would be great for the office as a shell, but the adult style lines, and modest coverage wouldn't prevent you from taking off your jacket or cardi. I wear breezy tanks with skinny jeans daily, here are a few alternate woven tank  outfits to get me out of that rut. 

I'm loving the chambray Mercer Tunic tucked into a self-drafted rayon midi skirt, and clogs. It's put together, but still heat friendly.

This is my favorite look and very "me" right now. The Biscayne Blouse paired with the longer of my Curved Copper Tube Necklaces, self-drafted wide leg pants (similar), and clogs. It's respectable, and easy to wear. 

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You can get your copy of the Mercer Tunic and Biscayne Blouse sewing patterns along with a whole lot more summer tank inspiration over at Indie Sew. Check out Allie's blog post for a discount!

This post is sponsored by Indie Sew. All thoughts are my own.

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