Nina Culottes from Compagnie M

Look at her in that demure a-line skirt. No doubt headed to a Memorial Day picnic, ready to sit in the shade sipping lemonade in all that matchy-matchy, star spangled, red, white, and blue. 

Nope! They're culottes! I'm ready to run a three-legged race, spit watermelon seeds, take a spin on the merry-go-round, and ride a bike down a country road (cause that's what all Americans do on flag waving summer holidays.)

Okay, I'm not going to do any of those things, I plan to sit quietly at home. The point is, I could if I wanted to. These are the Nina Culottes, a new pattern from Marte at Compagnie M. Marte very graciously gave me a copy of the pattern (thanks Marte!) to help spread the word about Nina's recent release. 

PATTERN: Nina Skirt and Culottes from Compagnie M. The Nina pattern can be a simple a-line skirt or culottes. These are several pocket options for the front waistband and two potions for welt back pockets. You can also choose between a front zip fly with two different waistband overlap options or a hidden side zipper. I went with one of the simplest combinations by using just the side pockets and the hidden side zipper because I wanted them to be sleek. The pattern was very simple. I'm pretty comfortable with hidden zipper installation, but I do them so infrequently I still used Marte's clear instructions for a clean finish inside and out. Marte kicked her pattern formatting up a notch by overlapping the pattern pieces in a similar fashion to Japanese pattern books. I love that it saves printer paper, and the lines are still very clear (unlike some Japanese pattern books).

FABRIC: This is Robert Kaufmann Chambray Union Indigo. It's a medium weight that is great for the volume of these culottes, though probably not sturdy enough for traditional shorts. The waistband facing and pocket lining are from an old men's button down shirt.

SIZE/FIT: I cut based on my measurements, and the result was very close for pants. My waist to hip is usually at least one size different so I graded between sizes. I ended up cutting 1/2 size smaller for the hip to the waistband, then grading the waistband from that point at the bottom to 1" smaller at the top (shown above right). Marte recommends that you make a quick muslin for the culottes, and I couldn't agree more. A few nips and tucks to my muslin resulted in smooth sewing on the "good" fabric, and a perfect fit. 

I suppose we should talk about this patriotic flourish of a top for a minute, and I'm just going to say it before my mother does - this top is way to bleeping tight. The hip skimming fit of the culottes seemed to want a body conscious leotard of a shirt. Or, I was looking for an excuse to try the Nettie Bodysuit pattern from Closet Case Patterns. This is my very first attempt at the Nettie, the fabric is crap, and I had a small snafu rethreading my serger at 2 o'clock in the morning ending in my having to sew up with sad specimen on my regular machine (oh, the heartache!). All are factors contributing to a less than stellar outcome. The smoke and mirrors of modern photography makes it look passable, but this guy has a future as a dust cloth. All that negativity aside, I have full confidence in the sew-worthiness of the Nettie. It lends itself to the cinched-at-the-waist gathered skirts I like to wear and I am very pleased with the way it accommodates my curves. It has a full seat, and so do I. Next time I will go up a size in the bust, and use a stretchier knit (to be fair knits with two way stretch are specified in the pattern, I knew I was asking for trouble). 

So there ya go, a little red white and blue for this Memorial Day. Something about this outfit is giving me the urge to do time steps.

***

Compagnie M is giving away 14 copies of the new Nina Skirt & Culottes pattern. Enter below:

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Follow along with the Nina blog tour for more inspiration!

***
Pertinent Info:
Bottoms Pattern: Nina Skirt & Culottes by Compagnie M
Bottoms Fabric: Robert Kaufmann Chambray Union Indigo from Fabric.com
Top Pattern: Nettie Bodysuit from Closet Case Patterns
Top Fabric: Cotton Jersey Knit from Fleishman's Woolens (local shop)
***
Linking up with Imagine Gnats Shorts on the Line on Kollabora!

STYLO Restyled : Black & Blue

This is my favorite Stylo restyle so far. I've made both of these patterns before so I'll spare you the pattern review (Clover Review, Mara Review). Suffice it to say I wouldn't have made a second Mara and a third Clover if I didn't like the patterns.

I've had a chambray Mara in mind since I made the first one back in August. The weight of this beautiful chambray is perfect for an autumn top, and the subtle texture perfectly compliments the shade in the corduroy print. I got this lovely specimen at Home Made when I was "down the shore" (as the locals say) this summer. This is one of the best local sewing shops I've ever been to. Its tiny, but there isn't a single fabric there that I wouldn't love to have. I think this is the Robert Kaufman Union Chambray in Indigo, but I'm not certain, and I'm desperate for more. Winter is coming and my chambray stockpile is running low.

Our last Mara was a 5 and it seems a smidgen on the snug side, so this time I made a 6. I omitted the piping because it seemed unnecessary without a contrasting fabric. Now that I've done it I think it might have sharpened the construction even without the contrasting fabric. The 3/4 length sleeves are from the Louisa Dress (also by Compagnie M). The sleeves are meant to be interchangeable, but if you don't have the Louisa pattern, I think it would be pretty easy to just shorten the long sleeve piece included with the Mara.

The shorts are a corduroy fabric only a middle aged woman could love (given that today is my thirty-very-much-something birthday maybe I should cut out the name calling). Yet something propelled me to pay the BF Bridge toll a second time to go back to Joann and get it (not great sign about my age!). It's not something I would normally buy, but in this limited quantity it really works.  

Shirt Pattern: Mara Blouse by Compagnie M

Shirt Fabric: Chambray Union Indigo by Robert Kaufman

Shirt Fit: Size 6

Shorts Pattern: Willow & Co. - Clover Shorts by Mouse House Creations
Shorts Fabric: Printed Corduroy fron Joann Fabric.
Shorts Fit: Size 6

I had really hoped to get one good photo of this whole outfit.  But asking a 4 year old to do you a favor at 7am can only result in eye rolling, yawning, and nonsense. I'm trying to dazzle you with quantity of image rather than quality (I do that some times), and I'll leave you with this:

***

More STYLO Restyled

***

His & Hers Compagnie M Charles Pants

Have you seen the new Charles Pants by Compagnie M? This was my first foray into pattern testing, and with mixed results. I was in the midst of a (not yet released) deadline driven project when I signed up and I didn't read the instructions quite like I should have. Honestly, I never read the instructions quite like I should (husband has stopped reading at this point as a frustrated affirmation of my negligence! :).  I'm a visual thinker, a faithful believer in the show-me-don't-tell-me philosophy of life. Lesson learned, I will be more careful next time. These are my second and third pairs of Charles pants. With the messy first pair out of my system, I'm pretty happy with these.

My favorite thing about the Charles pants is their gender neutrality. Either kid could wear either pair of these pants without a sideways glance from the most conventional passer-by. They are even wearing the same shoes! I love a full skirted dress as much as the next sewist, but I get a real thrill from making something for child #1 (male) that child #2 (female) can wear a few years later without compromising style. Compangnie M is know for little girl clothing, but this boy friendly design has got me excited to see what Marte comes up with next.

PATTERN: Charles Shorts/Pants/Dungerees by Compagnie M. Can be made as pants, shorts, or overalls. This is a simple skinny leg pant pattern with a functioning double sided button fly, and an elastic back waist.

FABRIC: Both the fabrics and buttons are Fabric Row finds. Both are 100% cotton prints sturdy enough to be a bottom weight. The brown on J has the added bonus of being flannel with a subtle herringbone print. I wish I had bought more, by the time I realized J could use a bigger size the fabric had sold out. L's cream and black fine lined plaid has a streak of mustard in it. When I first saw this fabric it brought the Mara Blouse (pattern also by Compagnie M) I made over the summer to mind.

Sadly my go-to PA Fabric Outlet is going out of business. PA Fabric Outlet is my favorite place to blow a spare 1/2 hour recreational shopping. The main appeal is that I can walk there, the button selection is second to none, the sales people leave you alone, and there is a park around the corner to satisfy by shopping companion(s). I'm gonna miss this store, until then I've been burning money there.

FIT: Both kids are wearing a size 6. I had to let the side seams out of J's because they pulled to much with the shirt tucked in. Next time, I would make him a 7 or even an 8 (though he measured as a 6). L probably could have worn a 5, but after seam ripping J's I didn't want to take any chances with them fitting her for the whole winter.

ALTERATIONS: The only alteration I made was to widen the legs about 1" on each side of each leg piece on L's pants. I like the skinny look (particularly on J) but thought I'd mix things up with the second pair, so they aren't too matchy, matchy.

Here she is in her grown up pants looking for all the world as I imagine she will 10 years from now. Already with a perfect eye roll technique.

***

Linking to:

Kid's Clothes Week
Straight Grain

Compagnie M Mara Blouse

I made this Compagnie M Mara blouse for the the Summer of Mara blog tour. Today I’m bringing it home to give the Mara my standard pattern review treatment. I have had my eye on the Compagnie M Mara blouse for quite a while. Marte’s call for sewists to make the Mara for her summer blog blitz was the perfect incentive to move Mara to the top of my must-sew list.

PATTERN: There are two printing options one with seam allowances, and one for people who hate themselves. Clearly I chose the one with, I just can't wrap my head around the real advantage of leaving them off. Like all Compagnie M designs (have you seen the Lotta Dress? Swoon!) the Mara blouse is full of great details. There are 3 sleeve options, flutter, butterfly (shown) and sleeveless. The placket, piping, and body fabric combinations are an endless source of customization. I love the traditional styleing of this blouse, but with separate pieces that allow me to switch things up.

FABRIC: Cotton Voile from India Beautiful Art. I heart this fabric, super lightweight, a tiny bit sheer, and with a sophisticated (I think) cream ground with black stamped pattern. Perfect for this blouse. I used Kaufman Cambridge Cotton in black for the homemade piping. The buttons are from PA Fabric Outlet in Fabric row, and are reminiscent of oil rubbed bronze (though I’m sure that’s not what you call it for buttons) finish, with an embossed pattern that goes really well with the fabric print.

FIT: The Mara fits like a glove, but there is little room to grow. L measured right on as a 4, and she is 4 so that is no surprise. I might make another identical one so she will get more wear out of it. Next time I’ll make a 5 (or maybe even a 6, it could be tunic-y right?). I would also shorten the button loops ¼”, and add an inch to the length.

I would also consider coming up with a bigger lining next time. The piping/placket seam is no joke, and I don’t love the serging showing where the opening starts. I bar tacked the neck opening closed and to the seam there so it wouldn’t hang out.

I guess I should point out that I got this pattern for free, but of course, the opinions are my own. I really want to thank Marte for including me in her blog tour, I love an extra push to challenge myself, and I will be making this  pattern again.

L is also wearing her Clover Shorts by Willow & Co. (blogged here).

Linking up with Simple Simon & Co.

The Summer of Mara with Compagnie M

Today I'm sharing my black and white Mara Blouse on the Compagnie M Mara blog. Please stop by and check it out. 

Have you heard about the Mara blouse summer sew along at Compagnie M? Sewists the world over are sewing up Mara's for a chance to win great prizes. I really love this pattern, it has great details but is still a quick sew. I just got some chambray to make the dress length, and can't wait to get started. Want to sew your own Mara blouse pattern? Use the coupon code MARA-ACTION at check-out to get 10% off the Mara blouse pattern. Then enter your creation in the sew-a-long pool, hurry contest closes August 17th!