Learn how to make your own quilt binding to use on this cute quilted bag.

Now that the full size Morris Tote sewing pattern has launched (the big brother of the Mini Morris Tote with a few added features #wholeclothmorris) and the sewalong video tutorial is live, I thought it would be a good time to add to the catalog of skill building videos on the Wholecloth Patterns Youtube channel.  If you're a beginner sewer these short videos will help you learn individual sewing techniques that are used to sew garments, quilts, and most especially bags. 

Both Wholecloth Morris Totes use double fold, straight grain binding to finish the quilted edges and the seams. This is a classic quilt finishing technique that seemed fitting to use for this quilted bag style. Straight grain binding is simple, sturdy, and as well suited to bag sewing as it is to quilt making. For this design I use double fold straight grain binding because the second fold makes it easier to adjust along the back side of the fabric when you're covering multiple layers of thick quilted fabric. I'm reining in my inner maximalist by using light weight denim for the tutorial because it's easy for the viewer to see the difference between the right side and the wrong side of the fabric. Please let your inner maximalist fly free, the binding is a great opportunity to mix prints, use up scraps and add subtle detail to this simple bag. Check out #wholeclothmorris on Instagram for more binding inspiration, and please share your finished bags there. I would love to see them! 

Bias Binding vs. Straight Grain Binding

Both bias cut and straight grain binding look more or less the same, but they have one key difference that determines which one to use for your project. Straight grain binding, as the name suggests is cut along the grain of the fabric, as in the fibers that run the length and width of the fabric. It is very strong, stable, and has no stretch. It lends itself to finishing long straight edges like quilts or rectangular bags, and will create an even line along the edge of your project. Bias binding, also as the name suggests, is cut on the bias of the fabric, meaning it is cut at a 45 degree angle to the grain. This creates a very flexible binding that has quite a bit of stretch. It lends itself to finishing curved edges of garments or bags. The stretch allows it to hug curves without bunching, but can result in a small amount of inconsistency in the width as you push and pull it around curves. Bias binding is used to finish the interior seams for the Wholecloth Fairmount Bag, and you can find my video tutorial for making it on Youtube. 

A full How-to Make Your Own Double Fold Straight Grain Binding video tutorial (perfect for learning how to make your own quilt binding too!) is on the Wholecloth Patterns Youtube channel now. Or check out the cliff notes below.

How-to Make Your Own Straight Grain Binding

Supplies to Make Fabric Binding

To made the double fold, straight grain fabric binding you will need some light weight woven fabric, a ruler, tailor's chalk, scissors and an iron. You will want to use a woven fabric like cotton or linen that is easy to work with and holds creases when it is ironed. 

1. Find the grain of your fabric. 

The fabric grain runs parallel to the selvedge edge of the fabric. If you're cutting on the grain make a fold parallel to the selvedge (and the threads that run along the length of the fabric) and is at least 1" deep. Here I'm cutting my binding across the grain, which also works for straight grain binding. Make sure the fold is perpendicular to the grain (which will be parallel to the threads that run across the fabric) so it doesn't stretch, and is at least 1" deep. Press the fold to make a crease. 

2. Mark the fabric.

Use chalk to mark a line 1" from the fold the whole length of the fabric. The binding will have a finished width of 1/2". If you'd like yours to be a different width you can easily double your desired finished measurement. 

3. Cut.

Cut along the line you've just made. You now have a 1" folded strip of fabric.

4. Join strips for longer binding.

If your binding isn't long enough you can join two pieces together. With the folds opened up so the fabric is flat, and right sides together overlap the ends of the strips so they form a 90 degree angle. The strips form a square where they overlap. Sew diagonally across this square connecting the outer corners of the square as shown in the picture above. 

5. Grade the seam.

Trim the seam allowance to 1/4", press the seam allowance to one side. Refold the joined strips along the center crease. 

6. Fold one side. 

Open the folded strip. Fold one long edge toward the wrong side so that it is just shy of the center fold. Press this new fold into the length of the fabric. Be careful not to disturb the center crease. 

7. Fold other side. 

Repeat the previous step with the other long edge. Again, be careful not to disturb the center crease.

8. It should look like this. 

You now have a strip of fabric with 2 outer folds and the center crease. 

9. Final press. 

Refold the strip along the center crease and give the binding a final press so that it holds it shape when you're working with it. 

You're finished and all set to sew your own Morris Totes!

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Wholecloth Fairmount Bag Sewalong Videos

The Fairmount Bag sewalong is now available on the Wholecloth Patterns Youtube channel. These video sewing instructions will cover every step of the Fairmount Bag sewing pattern. I've broken the sewing tutorial into two manageable sections. In Part 1 we'll cut out the pattern pieces, go over the supplies you'll need for your bag, and cut out the fabric. We'll attach the piping to the View A sides and quilt the View B sides. Then we'll prepare all the parts and pieces needed to sew the bag in Part 2. In Part 2 of the Fairmount Bag sewalong we assemble the bag. I'm demonstrating with a View A bag, but the instructions are the same for both views. 

I'm calling the Fairmount an intermediate sewing pattern because it requires a few points of precision sewing on bulky seams, but a confident beginner could tackle this bag using the sewalong. My goal was to compliment the writing and illustrations in the pattern instructions with a few tips for avoiding mistakes, and clearing the way to a successfully sewn bag. 

The video instructions are available to everyone, but you'll need a copy of the sewing pattern to make the Fairmount Bag. 

Basic sewing skill tutorials for the making the Fairmount Bag.

You can kick-start your Fairmount Bag sewing by prepping a few of the supplies ahead of the sewalong. You can make the perfect piping and bias tape to match your bag using the How-to Make Your Own Piping, and How-to Make Bias Tape tutorials.  If you're using a metal zipper for your bag, you'll want to shorten it to the perfect 13" using the How-to Shorten a Metal Zipper tutorial. All three are core sewing skills to add to your sewing arsenal, and the perfect place to start if you're a beginner. 

Fabrics used in the Fairmount Bags in the sewalong.

Main fabric for View A: 8.5 oz canvas in Walnut from Blackbird Fabrics

Main fabric for View B and lining of View A: Merchant and Mills Elora Indian Cotton

Quilt Batting: Warm and Natural Cotton Batting

Lining of View B: Merchant and Mills Cara Indian Block Print

View A piping and View B pocket: Merchant & Mills Everyday Denim Chambray

All Merchant & Mills fabrics are from Oaks Fabrics. 

Watch the Fairmount Bag sewalong videos.

These videos are a skosh longer than my usual Youtube tutorial. You can hop around the video using the time stamps in the text below the video. Use them to rewatch the parts you need, and skip the parts you don't. Watch Part 1 Watch Part 2

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How-to Make Your Own Piping Video Tutorial

Follow this video tutorial to make your own custom piping to match any sewing project. Piping is a crisp, classic way to add structure and define the edges of a handmade bag. The Wholecloth Patterns Fairmount Bag uses piping to define the bottom curve of view A, that might otherwise be easily crushed out of shape. It's also used on the Logan Bag to strengthen the circular bottom seam, and help hold its bucket shape. You could buy piping, but it's easy to make and gives you complete control over the look and quality of your finished bag. 

Tools for Making Piping

The only semi-specialty tool you need to make piping is the zipper foot for your sewing machine. The zipper foot allows you to sew right up against the edge of the piping cord when you're sewing the piping and when assembling your bag. The foot I use in the video is the Bernina #4. You'll want to find the foot that works with your sewing machine.  A zipper foot is essential for sewing bags, and is included with most sewing machines. 

In addition to the zipper foot you'll need a few very basic sewing tools. We'll use scissors, a marking tool, and a ruler. 

Supplies for Making Piping

Piping is basically a string wrapped in fabric. From light weight cotton lawn to upholstery fabric, any woven fabric can be used to make piping. Keep in mind that heavy fabrics will work best with thicker piping cord, and lighter fabrics will give the best coverage to thinner piping cords. In the video I'm demonstrating with light weight denim from Joann. I've also made bags piped with corduroy, or canvas. 

Of course, the filler in piping isn't actually string (although I've used yarn in a pinch). For the most predictable results use the specialty product called piping cord. My favorite is a cotton filler cord surrounded by polyester braid. The cotton is sturdy but easy to work with, and the surrounding braid allows the cord to move smoothly inside the finished fabric cover. The piping cord in the tutorial is from Great Lakes Cordage on Amazon. You can buy small quantities of many sizes of cord, and variety packs of multiple sizes. This variety pack has all 3 sizes discussed in the tutorial. It's a great way to experiment with the scale of your piping to the fabric and project. Once you try piping cord you'll never improvise with yarn or string again. 

DIY Piping is used on the Wholecloth Patterns 

Fairmount Bag & Logan Bag 

sewing patterns. 

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How-to Add a Lining to the Wholecloth Project Bag

Today we're going to hack the Wholecloth Project Bag sewing pattern by learning how-to add a lining to the bag. I love the simplicity of making a bento bag from a single piece for fabric, but it does take a little extra time to finish the hem, and seam allowances to perfection. Giving the Project Bag a full lining creates a fully reversible bag. It also makes finishing the bag even easier. If you're a new sewist, this is a great place to start with Wholecloth Patterns. 

The video tutorial of this pattern variation is a bonus track to the Wholecloth Project Bag sewalong. After learning how to sew a thoughtfully finished bag, we use the pattern as a base to mix up the finishing.

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Wholecloth Project Bag

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How to add a decorative tag to the Wholecloth Project Bag

Adding a decorative tag to the Wholecloth Project Bag is a fun embellishment and a great way to identify bags made from the same fabric. I made this set of Project Bags as reusable Christmas wrap. They're an easy way to wrap bottles of wine, sweatshirts, and pajamas, or a fitting presentation for hand knits. You can add these to your easily add these tags in a few simple steps. I've whipped up a quick tutorial, you'll find it below. 

The following is a tutorial for the tag embellishment, and is meant to be used with the Wholecloth Project Bag sewing pattern. 

Instructions. Prepare your Wholecloth Project Bag pattern piece as described in the pattern instructions. 

   

Prepare the tag. Cut a rectangle of fabric that is 3" x 2 1/4". Press a 3/4" fold into each short side of the rectangle, so that wrong sides are touching (left diagram). Press. Fold in half perpendicular to the previous folds, so that the edges of the previous folds are hidden (right diagram). Align edges, press.

Attach the tag. Position the prepared tag 1 1/2" from the upper right notch, as shown.  Align the open edge of the tag with the raw edge of the main fabric piece. Pin in place. Assemble the Project Bag beginning at step 1 of the Wholecloth Project Bag pattern instructions. 

A few notes on how to handle the tag during bag construction:

Step 8 - press the tag seam allowance toward the bottom of the bag on the wrong side of the bag, and press the portion of the tag on the right side toward the bag opening. 

Step 10 - Trim the tag seam allowance  with the lowers seam allowance in Step 10. Complete the bag as instructed. 

Step 14 - be sure the flap of the tag on the right side held clear of the topstitching.

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Sewing Tutorial: How-to Sew a Quilt Block Front Panel for the Logan Bag

My intention with the simplicity of the Logan Bag sewing pattern design is that it is easy to customize. I have too many pattern hacks and custom fabrics in mind for one woman, but this one made it to the top of my to-do list. The rectangular front pocket panel is just asking to be chopped up and put back together with pretty scraps. I'm not much of a quilter (yet?!), but I thought I'd share my process and the template to make your own quilted Logan Bag. There are templates for both the Mini and Standard sizes. The one I'm showing here is Standard, it's just the right size for bigger knitting projects, and I have a sweater on my list for winter knitting. 

I made a few test quilt blocks with scrap fabric before settling on the final fabric. I used a denim from my stash that is dark on the right side, and light on the wrong side. I used the wrong side to make the contrasting lighter pieces. I made a sandwich of the denim, a single layer of cotton quilt batting for a little loft, and fusible interfacing for structure. The whole bag is quilted with simple lines 1" apart. After making the quilted additions to the exterior I just sewed the pattern as written. It's a simple way to customize the Logan Bag. You will need the full Logan Bag pattern to do this pattern hack. Tutorial instructions are in a handy pdf you can store with your Logan Bag pattern. 

The quilted pocket design is a play on the classic flying geese quilt block, and inspired by the stacked triangle texture of the Fragment Scarf. It brings making full circle to carry knitting in a homemade bag inspired by knitting! 

I've made up a few more Hardware & Supply kits for Christmas giving. To sweeten your holiday making, I'm offering free US shipping on the Hardware & Supply Kit while the current inventory lasts. The pattern and kit would be a lovely holiday gift for your sewing bestie, or sew one up for a knitting friend.

Get the tutorial here:

Get the full pattern here:

Get the kit here:

Consider this your quilted Logan Bag starting point. Let the creativity flow. As always, I would love to see where this pattern takes you. Share your finished bags using the hashtags #wholeclothloganbag & #wholeclothpatterns. Be sure to tag me @_wholecloth.

 

Bag Making: How-to Tie the Fisherman's Knot

The Logan Bag is a drawstring bucket backpack with a continuous cord that closes the top opening of the bag and acts as the shoulder straps. Using the fisherman's knot to fasten the ends of the drawstring makes the shoulder straps adjustable.  

There is no one right way to tie the knot, and any knot that holds the ends of the string together will do just fine. But, I thought I'd share the fisherman's knot. It's my favorite knot for the Logan bag. After trying a few different knots, fancy and plain, I settled on this one as working best for me. 

I like the fisherman's knot for two reasons. First, it allows you to adjust the length of the shoulder straps.  Moving the knots a few inches lets you to wear the bag comfortably in many different ways. I usually lengthen mine to wear the bag across my body, but make them as short as possible to wear it on one shoulder. I can make this change on the move with this simple knot.  I also like its low profile. It's basically two simple overhand knots, that are less bulky than a single know. The smaller knots naturally follow the pull of the drawstring. Even with the thick rope of the Standard Logan Bag the two small knots blend into the design of the bag. Of course, you'll want to trim final length of the drawstring to fit your body and preference.

Below you'll find a handy video tutorial that shows the adjustable straps in action, and how to tie the fisherman's knot. I've also got step by step photographs if pausing a video isn't your thing. I'm using the same drawstring that comes in the Hardware & Supply Kit for the Mini Logan Bag. 

How-to Tie the Fisherman's Knot

This image is really the key to the fisherman's knot. It is basically two overhand knots tied around the opposite string. 

When the knots are tightened you can pull the knots away from each other to shorten the loop of rope. 

Or pull the the strings to lengthen. 

Logan Bag Sewing Pattern

Head on over to the Wholecloth Patterns store to get your copy of the Logan Bag sewing pattern. 

Get the pattern!

The Logan Bag Hardware and Supply Kit has all the hardware, installation tools, and notions you'll need (including the drawstring) to make either the Standard or Mini Logan Bag. 

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