Handmade Fall Layers

I made some pants, and I really like them. I actually have a lot to say about these pants. They're self-drafted, but I think I'll leave all of that for a topic specific post. Today, I'm just going to go over the specifics of this outfit, and ease myself back into outfit posts. 

The pants are the newest garment I've sewn. I wanted some pull on tapered pants. I had two different strategies for creating them. The approach I took with these pants was to taper my self-drafted wide leg pants pattern. It was the easiest way to get to the end result, and I'm pretty happy with them. I used the Dani Pants leg lining it up just below the hip where the leg widths were the same and used that to taper the leg. I usually do a 26" inseam when I make these with wide legs, but added 1" for this version. I also added a few inches for a fold up cuffed hem. 

I've been sewing this self-drafted pattern since 2015. This is probably my 10th or 11th pair including shorts versions. You can read more about the drafting process here. The time and effort I put into drafting my own has definitely paid off.

I've been tinkering with a couple different approaches to pull on tapered pants. After a few iterations I learned for my own experience and basted the pants together, before cutting the pockets, to check the fit before I went all in with the finish. It would be a real bummer to serge up the sides only to discover my feet don't fit though the leg openings. That didn't actually happen, but I'm beginning to anticipate failure, and learn from mistakes. 

The fabric is Robert Kaufman14 wale corduroy in Rust from fabric. com. It'slovely fabric. I love, love, LOVE the color. I've been searching for nail polish this color all through the fall, but pants work just as well.  I was a little worried the nappy fabric would attract lint, but so far that concern seems unfounded. The are wearing very well. 

I'm wearing them with my Hilary Top, pattern by Tessuti Fabrics, that I've blogged before. This fabric goes with everything and nothing and works well with the color of these pants. 

The sweater is the one off (actually 2), no pattern, version of the kids' Passing Showers Tee. I won't share much about this as I still have the best intentions of sharing more about  making this size at some point, but don't feel like figuring it out not. 

Not gonna lie, wearing 3 handmade piece has me feeling pretty proud of myself. Wearing 2 pieces of my own design has me feeling so smug I can barely stand to be in the same room with myself. It's got volume, it's got texture, it's mixed media. What's not to love? I could, and probably should, feign humility, but this outfit makes me feel like a million bucks. 

Outfit Details:

Pants Pattern: Self-drafted some details here

Pants Fabric: Robert Kaufman 14 Wale Corduroy in Rust from Fabric. com

Shirt Pattern: Hilary Top by Tessuti Fabrics

Shirt Fabric: Block Print Cotton from Etsy

Shirt Details: Here

Sweater Pattern: My own

Sweater Yarn: O-wool Balance color Natural

Neutral Basics

This outfit has been a long time coming. I made the Archer Button Up before Christmas, and bought the Lark yarn from Quince & Co. at the end of August (geez!). As my skills increase I've tried to be more intentional about what I make, buying better materials, striving for a good fit, and giving each seam a thoughtful finish. I didn't mean to be quite so intentional as to take 6 months to finish!

I have also been thinking of complete outfits when I'm fabric shopping, and using knit pieces to add texture and interest since I don't wear many prints. I now have a robust inventory of handmade clothing, and I don't need another single top that has no relationship with the rest of my closet. Those tops are helpful for honing skills, but not always helpful for getting dressed.

The anchor for this look is the cardigan sweater. I have a medium weight RTW oatmeal cardigan that I have worn past the point of respectability. I still wear it around the house, but I needed something less shabby to takes it's place when in polite society. This is the much instagrammed Big Sister Cardigan. I like the construction of this cardi, it's knit as one piece. Even the ribbing at the hem and sleeve cuffs are worked with the body. The yarn is Quince & Co. Lark in Audouin. I really love the body and the natural hue of the yarn, but I don't love the gauge. The pattern calls for worsted, but a bulkier yarn would have served me better. I needed a US10 needle to get the gauge, making a much looser fabric than I like. It's a small thing, but makes the finished sweater a little less wearable than I had hoped. I already have a few swatches made for the Uniform Cardigan. If this sweater doesn't see much wear I will begin the yarn reincarnation process. No reason to let lovely yarn sit on the shelf.

The Archer Button Up from Grainline Studio is a winter wardrobe hit. I really drug my feet finishing it because cold weather had set in and I didn't think I would wear such a whispy weight top. It really adds polish worn under a jacket or sweater, and has seen more action than most of my other Archers. The fabric is the long sold-out linen rayon from Blackbird Fabrics. It's tissue thin and has delicate drape. It is also quite sheer, a problem solved by wearing a sweater over, or a camisole under. The Telio Mozart Linen from Fabric.com (affiliate) looks like a good substitute.

The pants are my now standard self-drafted wide leg pants, and I've already blogged about these. These are linen, which I wouldn't normally wear in the winter, but the roomy cut lets me wear thin leggings underneath.

I feel like a classy grandpa in this outfit with the boots, high waters and cardigan sweater. If i had some hard candies in my pocket and bifocals on the chain around my neck the look would be complete. Classy grandpa or not, I've worn all of these garments a bunch since I finished them. You just can't go wrong with neutral basics.

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DETAILS
Sweater Pattern: Big Sister by Hinterm Stein
Sweater Yarn: Lark in Audouin from Quince & Co. 
Sweater More Info: Ravelry Post

Shirt Pattern: Archer Button Up by Grainline Studio
Shirt Fabric: Rayon/Linen (sold out) from Blackbird Fabrics, could substitute Telio Mozart Linen  from Fabric.com (affiliate)

Pants Pattern: Self-drafted.
Pants Fabric: Classic Slub Linen from Joann, could substitute RK Essex Linen from Fabric .com (affiliate)
Pants Blog Post: New Pants Like Old Friends

SereKNITy + Bento Bag Giveaway (closed)

Thank to everyone who entered the Book & Bento giveaway! I loved reading all of your comments. The winner is @arcticmama1 on instagram. If you would like the book head on over to the Running Press Books website. If you'd like the bag, I've restocked my shop with a small supply of Bentos. 

For the last few weeks I've been knitting my way through SereKNITy: Peaceful Projects to Soothe and Inspire by Nikki Van De Car. This book includes more than 25 simple knitting, and crochet projects with simple stitch patterns and construction methods that keep your hands busy, and your mind free. There is everything from a tea cup cozy, to a button front cardigan, and lots of scarves and hats in between. This is exactly the kind of knitting I like to do. I like to keep my hands moving while I binge on Netflix, or chat with my husband at the end of the day. These projects leave a little head space for  other things. In the off chance that I'm knitting quietly alone, this is the sort of pattern that lets your thoughts flow, and good ideas come out of hiding. All of Nikki's projects could go to a coffee date, or beer night with friends, and not miss a stitch, or a word of the conversation. Because all of the projects are relatively simple, they are great for the beginning knitter.

I made the Portland fingerless gloves. I had a partial skein of Brooklyn Tweed Arbor left over from my last hat project, and I thought some spring mitts would go well with my spring hat. The texture of these mitts is made using only knit and purl stitches, and a short 4 row repeat. They knit up quickly over our last two car trips. I was a little worried I would run out of yarn, so I shortened them a bit from the instructions (details in my Ravelry notes). All of the SereKNITYy projects leave room for the knitter to improvise.

THE GIVEAWAY:

Because the lovely SereKNITy cover art and my bento knitting bag go so nicely together, I thought a giveaway would be fun! To win one copy of the book SereKNITy by Nikki Van De Car, and the Wholecloth Bento Knitting Bag shown here:

1. Comment on this blog post. Be sure to include an email where I can reach you with the comment. 

2. Follow me on Instagram. Like my post (which will appear later today) on Instagram, and leave a comment there. 

You may enter both here and on instagram, but only one entry at each place per person. Entries from any country are welcome. I will randomly pick a winner at 8pm Sunday April 23, 2017. 

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Mitts Knitting Pattern: Portland Knit Fingerless Gloves 

Mitts Yarn: Brooklyn Tweed Arbor in Sashiko from Loop Yarn

Mitts on Ravelry

More about the Book: SereKnity : Peaceful Projects to Soothe and Inspire

More about the Bento: Wholecloth Bento Bag

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Running Press Publishing provided this book for free, but the opinions are my own. I reviewed one of my friend Virginia's books a few years ago, and was already familiar with what Running Press has to offer. 

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Liberty Floral Archer Buttonup & Boreal Fragment Scarf

The Archer Buttonup (from Grainline Studio) is one of my most worn winter styles. My default out to dinner outfit is the chambray Archer View B with booties and black skinny pants. My favorite slightly more put together than usual day time outfit is the brown check Archer View A, tucked into high waisted jeans. I even wear my near disaster 10oz. denim Archer with sneakers and sweats when I'm in no danger or running into the fashion police. After working out every possible fit issue with previous versions of the Archer Buttonup, I figured it was time to splurge on one in Liberty London Tana Lawn. It's what every Archer wants to be, and what every sane sewist wants to make. This print is called Freya B (from Fancy Tiger Crafts), and I love the vaguely 90s tinge to the washed out pinks, and blueish green. Liberty creases like paper, takes the iron like a dream, and comes in so many fetching prints. The only down side is the price, but it's worth it for the right project.

Sometimes I wrack my brain and wreck my closet trying to find two things that go together (which is why dresses are awesome!). And, sometimes I inadvertently shop in color stories. It always feels good when your haphazard pile of recent makes, fabric purchases, and yarn acquisitions add up to something more than a few random garments. Coming up with colors, prints, and textures that work together automatically adds flexibility to my handmade wardrobe. Adding a little hand knit to a sewn garment adds depth to my commitment to making, and extends the garments usefulness to different seasons, and occasions. I sewed this shirt because it is a style I wear a lot. I added a hand knit Fragment Scarf (or 3) in Quince Finch (Boreal) to give myself some options. I may wear it weekly, but it doesn't always have to look the same. I'm going to knit and sew anyway. Might as well make things that go together.

The theme of blush and burnish even extends to some great stud earrings I was drawn to because they are fragments (get it?:), and finally bought because of the glittering echoes of the yarn and fabric color palette in the pyrite and copper.

I started this project with an unrealistic deadline in mind, which I totally missed. The morning of our anniversary night out, I had this shirt complete up to attaching the sleeves. No cuffs, not collar, no button(s)/holes, or hem. I was tempted to just bang it out with the quickest finishes possible, but in the end decided it would be an injustice fabric splurges everywhere.  I found something else to put on my body, and finished this project the next day to the very best of my ability: french seams at the shoulders and sides, particularly careful topstitching of interior collar stand, and the full Archer Popover Variation sleeve placket. The standard Archer placket always seemed like a short cut to me. But the first time (or two) I made it, I was so focused on how to build a wearable shirt, that I didn't waste too much time worrying about the beginner placket. Now I can burrito roll like a pro, and am more than ready to move on to a more professional looking sleeve opening.

I bought two yards of the Liberty print, and probably wouldn't risk it with less. If you're using accent fabric for the inside of the yoke, cuff, and collar stand you could probably get by with a yard and a half (WARNING: This sewist is not responsible for fabric shortages).

I finished Archer Buttonup last week, and have already worn it 3 times (with different hand knits each time, of course). Closet mission accomplished!

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Shirt Pattern: Archer Buttonup with Popover Variation Cuffs from Grainline Studio

Shirt Fabric: Liberty London Tana Lawn in Freya B from Fancy Tiger Crafts 

Scarf Pattern: Fragment Scarf from SweetKM (ahem, me!)

Scarf Yarn : Finch in Boreal from Quince and Co. 

The Fragment Scarf : New Knitting Pattern from Wholecloth Patterns

Last fall I knit myself a little scarf. It's just a triangle of subtle textured fabric that ties at the back like a bandana. It's a tiny little thing, but I wore it all winter long. It straddles the fine line between ornament and essential, keeping me warm in style. It's the kind of thing I'd leave on all day to protect myself from the vagaries of forced air heat. It imparts turtleneck warmth to any crew, and a little panache to a basic tee. Now that spring has made a tentative appearance, it's the perfect compliment to a light jacket. This is the Fragment Scarf, a new Wholecloth Patterns knitting pattern. 

THE PATTERN:
The Fragment Scarf knitting pattern has been professionally edited, and tested by a group of knitting volunteers. The textured repeat of this scarf is created with an easy to remember stitch pattern. The pattern includes complete written, and charted instructions. I would call this an advanced beginner pattern, but a determined beginner could knit it with a little help from the collective online knitting brain. It's a great opportunity to learn to read a chart, with clear text instructions as a back up.

THE YARN:
My sample scarf is knit with Finch in Shell from Quince and Co. I love the chiseled relief of the stitch pattern in this yarn, but the simple design lends itself to substitutions. Different fibers will alter the effect, and drape of the scarf. If you're knitting the scarf for warmth, wool is the way to go, but it also makes a great statement necklace. My first version is knit with Quince Tern. The silk content of Tern makes the scarf drape much more loosely around the neck, at a small expense to stitch definition. I would love to wear a pure silk, or linen version in an eye popping hue.

This fragment of a project is a great opportunity to experiment with different yarns. It's knit with less than one skein of fingerling weight yarn making it the prefect project for stash busting, or a yarn splurge.

Construction: Knit top down with decreases at the sides. Rolled edge band is picked up and knit.
Skills: Knit, purl, k2tog, p2tog, ssk, ssp, yo, pick up and stitches.
Gauge: 24 st and 40 rows in 4in (10cm)
Needles: US size 6 / 4.0mm straight needles or size needed to achieve gauge
Yarn: Quince Finch (100% American wool, 221 yes/50g hank) 1 hank or 163 yds comparable fingerling weight yarn
Notions: Tapestry needle, 2 stitch markers
Size: One size.
Finished Dimensions: 26 1/2x28in / 67x20cm
Instructions: Written & chart

To recap, you can buy the Fragment Scarf knitting pattern right here. If you'd like a discount, or to stay informed on sporadic developments around here, subscribe to the Wholecloth Patterns newsletter. Between now and April 5th subscribers get a 20% discount on the Fragment Scarf knitting pattern. 

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Banff Hats

I'm pretty sweet on the Banff Hat by Tin Can Knits. The simple repeat of the tree pattern is more interesting than knitting a plain hat, but doesn't require so much concentration that you can't knit it while doing something else, like listening to a piano lesson, or watching a peewee basketball game. It's got everything you could want in a pattern, colorwork, a simple chart, and speed.

The Banff is also written for worsted weight yearn. I have a ton of worsted weight yarn. My stash is heavy with single skein colors I bought 100 years ago when I was first experimenting with improvising my own kids' clothes. My goal is to get most of that yarn out of the box and onto the body in the next few months. The Banff Hat is a great way to use smaller quantities of colorful yarn. When I cast on the first one I didn't intend to make three. I've been struggling to commit to a longer term knitting project, and like to keep my hands busy, and my mind focused, so I just kept going. 

Details: This is a simple knit, and with simple projects it's nice to focus on the details. I used a tubular cast-on. It's my very favorite cast-on, and creates a nicely polished edge in 1x1 rib. The pink and green pompoms are made with a 2" pompom tool. They looked a little puny so I used a 4" piece of cardboard for the black hat's pom. 

Size: All 3 hats are the Adult S/M (sized to fit a 21" head). Both kids have 21" heads, mine is 22". The circumference is fine on all of us, the height is just a bit slouchier on the kids. 

Needles: I cast on with 7US straight needles, switching to 7US dpns to knit the brim in the round. The body is knit with 9US 16" circular needles, and when the crown decrease got too small for those I switched to 8US dpns, not in the pattern, but no dire consequences for such a short stretch. This sort of detail bores even me, but if I don't write it down I'll have to re-swatch when I make this again. Nobody wants that.

Yarn: The tree pattern on all 3 hats is Knit Picks Wool of the Andes. The green is Forrest Heather, not sure what the pink is, and Black. The main color might be Mink Heather, but it's from a frogged toddler sweater so I can't be sure.

We've already got more hats than heads, more than we can even loose in the bustle of the school commute. These three are off to warm the heads of dear ones, and I'm looking for something new to put on the needles. Cables perhaps...

Pattern: Banff Hat from Tin Can Knits for Tolt Yarn & Wool 

Yarn: Wool of the Andes from Knit Picks

Cast On and Brim Needle: 7 US

Body Needle: 9 US 16" circular (link to my favorite)

Crown DPN:  8 US (because I didn't have size 9)

On Ravelry

Featherweight Cardigan and Wide Leg Pants

There's a lot of chatter on the internet lately about knitters who sew, and sewers who knit. Makers everywhere are dusting off a forgotten hobby, or learning a new skill. I'm encouraged that the lines between the two are quickly blurring. I've always incorporated a little sewing into my knits, and this is not the first mixed media outfit I have made. Not sure if I was ahead of my time, or just didn't know any better. Either way, I have persevered to the point of completing my very own interdisciplinary outfit, which has been on my mind for a long time. First, a hand knit sweater in a color I adore. Second, a sewn tank top from one of my very favorite patterns. Third, linen trousers that are self-drafted. 

Let's start at the top with this snug little cardi. This is the Featherweight Cardigan from Hannah Fettig. I bought Hannah's book Home & Away last fall, and I've been meaning to make a Georgetown Cardigan. The Georgetown is a fairly substantial cardigan, and spring is coming, so I thought I'd make a Featherweight Cardigan as a warm up. I was beginning to feel like the last knitter on the planet not to have made one of these, and now I see why. It's so versatile. The top down construction allows you to customize the fit as you go. I used a ready to wear sweater as a guide for the widths and lengths. More details of the sweater alterations are in my Ravelry notes. I kept track of weekly progress on instagram (#sweetkmWIP) to keep myself motivated in the midst of all that stockinette. 

The yarn is Quince & Co. Finch in Gingerbread. I love the color, and thought it would go well with all the chambray in my closet. But based on these photos it goes with a whole lot more. I think this yarn is a little squishy in the gauge specified. I'd like to make a black one with the same yarn, and will probably tinker with the pattern for a tighter knit. 

The top is the Basics Tank from Cali Faye Collection. I love the elliptical neckline, and the curve of the hem on this design. It is the most flattering tank I've come across, so I'm just gonna keep on making it. I raised the neckline 1" and added an 1/8" to the sides for I could french the seams. 

The fabric is Nani Iro from Miss Matatabi. If you've been following along on instagram you already know that I thought this was double gauze when I bought it, and it turned out to be brushed cotton. I was so busy falling in love with the gorgeous forrest and blush colorway that I didn't read the description! Believe me, the fabric type was clearly stated in the description but it was telling me things I didn't want to hear. After my initial disappointment the fabric is growing on me. It's a bit stiff for this design, but a beautiful texture and quality. I would have bought it anyway for the flawless color palette and watercolor print. 

The pants are self-drafted (a previous version). This is a little labor of love I've been working on for a few months off and on. I really want to sew pants, but I don't feel like fussing with the fit of a pattern that doesn't like my hip to waist ratio. I thought I might as well fuss with my own design from the start. I followed the instructions in the textbook from my pattern making class, then nipped and tucked my way to what you see here. These pants are high waist, pull on, wide leg trousers with a faux fly, and the always indispensable pockets. I'm hoping they will evolve into a more structured zip fly and waistband trouser.

With this rather large swath scratched out of my to-do list, here I am wondering what to do next...

***

Sweater Pattern: Featherweight Cardigan by Hannah Fettig
Yarn: Finch in Gingerbread from Quince & Co.

Tank Pattern: Basics Tank by Cali Faye Collection
Tank Fabric: Nani Iro Brushed Cotton from Miss Matatabi

Pants Pattern: Self-drafted
Pants Fabric: Slub Linen in Tobacco Potting from Joann Fabric

FOLLOW ALONG!

    

Secret Valentine Exchange : Gray Marled Shape Shifter Scarf

from @kristi_sweetkm on instagram

You may recall the Secret Valentine Exchange hosted by Sanae and Ute. Lovely makers the world over swap handcrafted Valentine treats with one another. This year I made a scarf, (last year I also made a scarf, apparently I am a one trick pony) inspired by a photo I took at the farm on a gray winter day, and the preferences of my recipient. 

I was assigned to make something for Monika of Schneider Meistern. Monika is a German pattern maker with an urban sensibility. Most of her website, and all of her patterns are in German, but definitely worth a visit, pictures being worth a thousand words and all. I was super excited about this assignment because she is so cool. I was super nervous about this assignment because she is so cool. I was totally relieved that she lives in a place with winter justifying my propensity to knit. And knit I did. 

PATTERN: This is a slight variation on my own Shape Shifter Scarf Pattern (available here). I made it a bit bigger over all, and I made the garter section a few rows longer than the rest of the scarf, casting off the side panels, then coming back and knitting about an inch more in the middle. One more shifting shape.

YARN: This is Palette Yarn by Knit Picks. I tried hard to stick to the use-what-you-have rule for this project, and I always have a good selection of this yarn on hand because it's inexpensive and comes in a ton of colors. To get the marled look I knit with two strands held together. The side panels are Cream and Finnley Heather, the middle panel is Cream and Asphalt Heather, the bottom middle panel is two strands on Asphalt Heather. 

This little assemblage of Shape Shifter Scarf, chambray bento bag (using this illustration), and some SweetKM Valentines, is now thousands of miles away hopefully being put to good use. Once again thank you to Ute and Sanae for taking on the organizational challenge of this little exchange. It was a ton of fun. You can see what others are giving and receiving with the hashtag #2015sve on instagram, or in the Flickr pool. 

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Now for the gift I received.

Angela of Sew Snippet made me some lovely felted bowls, and matchbook notebooks. I love both. L and I have been debating what to store in our new bowls. The DPNs were my suggestion, the peg dolls were of course hers. Thank you Angela! I love international mail, especially when its a beautiful handmade present for me.

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Because you may want to dig a little deeper into the online presence of the makers mentioned in this post (trust me you could spend a whole day on any of their sites drinking in the creativity) here is a recap:

Monika

instagram *  blog  * shop

Angela
blog * flickr

Ute

instagram  *  kollabora

Sanae

 instagram  *  blog