Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

This matched natural linen Heather Blazer and shorts has been a long time coming. I made the shorts last summer because the pattern is self-drafted and I can whip it up without any major decisions slowing me down. I got a little hung up on the Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer. First I guilted myself into thinking I had to muslin, spoiler alert, I didn't and it turned out fine. Then I waffled over the lining. Why is a good lining so hard to find?!  Nonsense, lead to time wasting and then the seasons changed without a linen blazer. But sometimes some time away is all you need to work through your hangups. This time, I jumped right in. 

The Pattern: The Heather Blazer by Friday Pattern Company is an oversized, lined blazer, with big patch pockets, a notched collar and single button closure. As I said before, I got hung up on muslining, but after comparing the finished garment measurements to mine, I figured it was a pretty good bet that I would like it without modifications. The pattern is written for a B cup (which I am), and there are no darts or fitted elements that could cause problems. I sewed a straight medium. The only modification was to take 2" from the length. I started with a paper fitting (just held up the pattern piece with the seam allowances folded over to see where it fell), and determined I needed to remove 1" so the jacket wasn't longer than the shorts. I took 1/2" above the waist and 1/2" below. In the end I shortened the hem another inch so you can just see that shorts under it. Next time I would take a full inch above the waist. I ended up raising the button/buttonhole too. 

The Fabric: This is European 100% Linen from Fabric.com in Natural. I bought it last year with this jacket in mind and ordered a little extra for the shorts. I've sewn with this fabric in other colors, so I already knew I liked the weight, drape, and durability. I love the linen rumple texture it gets after washing. The front for the jacket calls for a full sized fused interfacing. Would do something different next time. The linen and the synthetic interfacing are at odds with each other, and the front of the jacket is a little stiff. Was trying to stretch my boundaries when I picked this rather light color, but I think I'll make another darker version for when I feel content in my rut. 

The lining fabric is Cotton + Steel Picnic Lawn Sunday Dress also from Fabric.com. I thought the dots would be a neutral enough print to wear with most anything. But, it's not quite neutral enough. I find myself choosing tops based on the tiny slivers of lining print at the sleeve, which was not how I wanted this to work. Otherwise, the fabric is a solid choice for a jacket lining, and works well with the weight of the linen. 

The Outfit: The tank is an Ogden Cami by True Bias. I made it last summer and it's a wardrobe staple, even in this bold print. The shorts are my standard self-drafted pattern, made in the same fabric as the jacket. I wear some version of this pattern all summer (and most of the spring and fall, and now that I have a corduroy pair, most of the winter too). I just can't be bothered to wear something that doesn't fit just right. Eventually, the fashion pendulum will swing far enough that I have to change, but not yet. 

Details:

Jacket Pattern: Heather Blazer by Friday Pattern Company

Jacket Fabric: European 100% Linen in Natural from Fabric.com

Jacket Lining Fabric: Cotton & Steel Picnic Lawn Sunday Dress Navy from Fabric.com

Tank Pattern: Ogden Cami by True Bias

Tank Fabric: Block Print from Etsy

Shorts Pattern: Self-drafted

Shorts Fabric: Same as Jacket

Maternity Sewing: True Bias Shelby Dress & Megan Nielsen Briar T-shirt

I've recently discovered the key to good maternity clothes is not wearing maternity clothes. With pants it's hard to avoid, but so many of my favorite tops and dresses have proven maternity friendly (at least for the second trimester). I tested the brand new Shelby Dress sewing pattern by True Bias a month or so ago. I was delighted to discover that it still fits even at 26 weeks pregnant! I'm a little desperate for variety after wearing the same 3-4 maternity outfits on repeat for a few weeks. 

The Shelby Dress sewing pattern has 2 lengths, 2 sleeve options, and skirt or pants options for the bottom. I made the long view b dress with the longer sleeve. It features head to toe princess seams, a back tie, and button front. The long view buttons end above the knee for a really nice slit front. 

For the fabric I wanted something with a true 90's vibe of dainty floral on a dark background (just like the one I used to borrow from my sister in high school). When I first got this swishy rayon challis floral (similar*) from Fabric.com* (affiliate link) I sort of panicked because it's not 1995 and I gave up on bold floral prints long ago. To hedge my bets, and add some layers to the maternity look, I made a Briar Top by Megan Nielsen to wear over it and make it more of a skirt/top combo. I've recovered from my print anxiety, but it's still nice to have options. 

For the Briar Top from Megan Nielsen Patterns I used a Kaufman Laguna Stretch Jersey* in Pepper from Fabric.com*. I sized up based on my measurements, but I wouldn't next time. 

I've been torn about how much time to spend (or is it waste?) sewing for my pregnant self. Pregnancy and postpartum are a moving target, and I like to invest my time and energy into garments I will get a lot of wear from.  I've decided hedging my bets with maternity friendly standard patterns is the best use of my time. 

Details:

Dress Pattern: Shelby Dress by True Bias

Dress Fabric: Floral Rayon Challis (sold out, similar*) from Fabric.com* 

Top Pattern: Briar Sweater and T-shirt by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Top Fabric: Kaufman Laguna Stretch Jersey in Pepper from Fabric.com*

*Fabric.com links are affiliate links.

One Garment Four ways : Lodo Dress

The Lodo Dress from True Bias, a modified Hemlock Tee as a Cardigan, and a self-drafted leather obi belt. Three pieces that can be mixed and matched for maximum versatility. 

Reflecting on Me Made May 2017, I'm feeling pretty happy with my handmade wardrobe, at least the part I shared during this month's festivities. I'm not feeling so great about the garments I didn't show, and that I don't wear. I don't do much to limit myself in what I sew, because it's important to me to try new techniques, learn new skills, satisfy my creativity, and let my personal style reveal itself. 

As I've become more confident with fit and technique, I want to be a more disciplined with pattern and fabric choices. I want to make clothing I know that I will wear, and that fit into the body of work I'm actually using. This spring I've been sewing with versatility at the top of my priority list. With that in mind, here are three recently made pieces combined to make four different outfits. 

- No. 1 -

Lodo Dress

Look 1 is the Lodo Dress pure and simple. With it's deep V neck, and minimalist silhouette, a black Lodo Dress might be the must have for Spring 2017. I bought this fabric after I saw Katie's short (view b) black one. It's clearly a wardrobe staple, and I had to have one. Just before I put scissors to fabric I saw Meg's long (view a) black one. Still a wardrobe staple that can be dressed up or down, but the midi length makes it feel extra modern and sophisticated. In the end, I made the midi (view a). 

- No. 2 -

Lodo Dress + Hemlock Cardigan

For look 2, I've added a cardigan extending a summer staple into cooler weather. I'm calling this my Hemlock Cardigan, because I started with the free Hemlock Tee pattern from Grainline studio. Mine is heavily modified, but with such a simple iconic shape, it's a blur where the Hemlock ends and my cardigan begins. This design is inspired by the Only Child Cardiff Work Coat that I have been mildly obsessed with since I saw it on Style Bee. It has a relaxed fit that goes well with the Lodo Dress (or jeans and a woven tank), and clever slanty pockets that are so big you can carry your keys, wallet, and phone!  I hope Only Child will accept this knock-off as the sincerest form of compliment for which it is meant. I was considering a full diagram of the alterations I made to the Hemlock Tee to end up with this cardi, but after seeing the designer herself behind the sewing machine on the Only Child instagram feed, I decided that wouldn't be fair to her hard work. As a compromise, I've got a brief written description below. There will be some trial and error unless your preferences, and measurements match mine exactly. My cardigan is made with a dream-come-true double knit I got at Jomar in South Philly. It's smooth on one side, and has a bit of texture on the other. I had no plans to make an homage to the Cardiff Work Coat until I saw this fabric. When I'm sifting through the disgusting piles at Jomar I often wonder why I bother. This. Is. Why. 

How to make a Hemlock Cardigan: Add 1" to each side of the sleeve width. Shorten the sleeve length by 2". Add 3" cuffs (actually 6" to account for folding in half) the same length as the sleeve opening. Add 1" to width of body front and back along the under arm side. Add 2" to the body length. For the open front, cut from the furthest point of the neck opening down to the hem, parallel to the side seam.  Use 3" wide binding (6" then folded in half) the same length as the back neck + left side + right side.  Cut back as 2 pieces to add structure. Add seam allowances where required. Start bigger than you think is necessary, and baste the pieces to start. The square fit makes it easy to shave off size as you go. I normally shave a little off of the Hemlock when I'm sewing it as a tee, and I added generously to it for this cardigan. 

- No. 3 -

Lodo Dress + Obi Belt

For Look 3 I've added a simple self-drafted obi belt. Sashes are prominent in indie clothing collections this spring, and as a maker of my own clothing it's an easy trend to latch on to. This version is in black leather to add some texture to the matte black dress while maintaining the visual length from shoulder to feet. In truth, I am much more comfortable in dresses with a defined waist, and have to be in just the right mood (and wearing just the right strength of shape wear) to feel comfortable in an unstructured cocoon. 

The leather came from Baldwin Leather & Fabric in Philadelphia's Fabric Row. Baldwin has a nice, but completely random, selection of leather in the back of their store. You pay by the square foot (it's highly subjective, but reasonably priced) so take your pattern pieces to be sure you buy the right amount. Fabric Row is on South 4th Street between Bainbridge Street and Christian Street in Philadelphia. It has a bunch of nice shops for upholstery fabrics, and a few with apparel fabric. There are enough gift shops (my favorite is Moon & Arrow) and restaurants (Hungry Pigeon and Red Hook are both solid options) to keep you busy for an afternoon. If you're in Philly, skip the cheesesteaks (actually, you can get a respectable cheesesteak at 4th and South, just a few blocks away), and shop! It's a 15 minute walk from Independence Hall through a few of Philadelphia's nicest residential neighborhoods. 

- No. 4 -

Lodo Dress + Hemlock Cardigan + Obi Belt

Look 4 combines all three pieces. I've already worn this outfit a few times, and I think it's my favorite. While I may wear my Lodo this way most of the time, I like that I can mix things up when I feel like it, or have some built in versatility for summertime travels. 

***

Dress Pattern: Lodo Dress by True Bias

Dress Fabric: Ponte Knit from Joann Fabrics

Cardigan Pattern: Modified Hemlock Tee by Grainline Studio

Cardigan Fabric: Double knit from Jomar

Belt Pattern: Self-Drafted

Belt Fabric: Leather from Baldwin Leather & Fabric on Philadelphia's Fabric Row

Lodo Dress + Obi Belt

Since the new Lodo Dress by True Bias came out I've been a little bit obsessed. The design is so simple, and so well detailed, allowing lots of room for the sewist to push, and pull the silhouette. Both the arm openings and the neck are faced with woven fabric, and the body is a structured knit (fabric links are affiliates). The body has a cocoon shape that tapers toward the hem. 

The Lodo pattern is written for someone 5'5" with a C cup. I'm 5'5.5" with a B cup. I think the bust difference makes this version a bit too long on me. I should have (and did in a later version) shortened the dress a bit in the middle for the hips to fall in the right place, and the hem to be a bit higher. I didn't have time to alter this one before spring break, but the fabric and pattern merit more tinkering. 

In the mean time, I've been wearing it with an Obi belt I made with Cotton & Steel linen blend on one side and black linen on the other. This was meant to be a muslin for future more subdued Obi belts, but I've been wearing this one a lot. I like the look and versatility of wearing a dress loose or belted (more on that later), and this print goes with absolutely everything I own (including some recovered kitchen chairs!). I guess I was drawn to it for a reason.

The dress fabric is a lovely Telio ponte knit from Fabric.com. It has a nice body and drape, and works well with this style. I want one in every color, and am considering this bold blue for a short Lodo. I'm also loving Jenn's stripes, and Adriana's grid version.

Kelli has a good instinct for designing clothes that are easy to wear. She describes the Lodo as an elevated t-shirt, and it absolutely is. Comfortable, wearable and easy to dress up or down. This simple silhouette has sparked a chain reaction of experimentation around maximum garment versatility. 

Notes:
Dress Pattern: Lodo Dress from True Bias
Dress Fabric: Telio Ponte Leggero Knit from Fabric.com
Belt Pattern: Self Drafted
Balt Fabric: Cotton & Steel Les Fleurs Folk Birds Black Cotton/Linen Canvas from Fabric.com

Mini Ogden, Mini Emerson, Mini Capsule

This kid has discovered t-shirts and shorts. She used to be a dresses only kind of girl, and the flowier the better. This summer she’s figured out that shorts are so much easier to play in. Her limited selection of shorts and tees were ill fitting, mismatched hand-me-downs.

We came across this delightful t-shirt when we were at the Wetlands Institute this summer. We go to the Wetlands every year, and every year we find some new topic of mid-Atlantic coastal life to fascinate us. This year we helped some interns catch dinner for the creatures in the Wetlands aquariums. Each kid got a net, and the naturalists helped them identify whatever they caught. After that dazzling exhibition of hands-on learning I'd have to be made of stone not to buy something in the gift shop. They have a thoughtful selection of nature books, and some of the cutest t-shirts around. We couldn’t resist this Wetlands tee considering L was in the market for separates. 

The Red Knot tee was designed by Chirp Kids Clothes. It’s part of a 4 shirt series featuring NJ shore birds. The Red Knot is the most famous Jersey shore bird no one has ever seen. Okay, somebody has seen it, but I never have, we pass through South Jersey at different times.

We got the shirt home just as the newest Mini patterns from True Bias were being tested. With the Red Knot Tee as the inspiration, I came up with a couple of mix and match-able pieces (i.e. mini capsule wardrobe) using the new Mini Emerson Shorts, and Mini Ogden Cami. 

I thought this floral linen would go nicely with the colors in the tee, so I sacrificed a dress made in the spring, that I never wore out of the house, for the project. I'm generally reluctant to trash even a muslin,  but I already altered it once, and it still wasn't quite right. I had the Craft Sessions Stash Less Challenge in mind when I started seam ripping.  I managed to squeeze a cami, and a pair shorts out of the dress. 

The floral on floral combo is L’s favorite and the one she is most likely to choose on her own. She tucks the cami in tight and calls it her pretend jumpsuit because it looks like it’s all one piece. I might get a little tired of all that print, so I made a denim pair of shorts with a few scraps of Art Gallery Fabric Lightweight Denim (left over from my last Alder Shirtdress) as a more neutral/sane option.

L measured as an 8 for the shorts, and I made her an 8 exactly as written. She measured a 7 for the tank, but I sized up to an 8 so she can hopefully wear it next year too.

Both patterns are well written, well sized, and have a lot of potential for customization. I would love to lengthen the Ogden tank into a dress, and will definitely try the Emerson as cropped pants. Both patterns are a simple sew. I made the cami and denim shorts, start to finish, in one day.

If only we had another vacation planned, these pieces, plus the Mini Colfax dress from the spring, would sure make packing for a beach trip easy.

***

The Mini Ogden and Emerson patterns came out yesterday, check out Kelli's blog for a discount code!

Project Notes:

Tank Pattern: Mini Ogden from True Bias

Shorts Pattern: Mini Emerson Shorts/Pants from True Bias

Floral Fabric: Linen from Joann Fabric

Solid Fabric: Lightweight Denim by Art Gallery Fabrics from Fabric Worm

T-Shirt: Red Knot by Chirp Kids Clothes from The WetlandsInstitute

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