How-To Knit Twist Yarn Together : Making a Color Change Along a Vertical Line

Intarsia knitting is when you use multiple colors to create a shape with in a ground of a different color. It's often used when creating a picture on a knit, like the vintage Christmas stocking I knit for my family. The color change technique is also used in fair isle knitting patterns (also called stranded knitting), which is usually a small repeat of geometric shapes in different colors. While both the classic Intarsia shapes, and Fair Isle repeats are beautiful, it's not the only reason to switch between yarns. In my Shape Shifter Scarf pattern I use the blocks of color to define different shapes within the scarf. It's a simple pattern, and here is the technique to make the simple color change along the same row without leaving a hole in your fabric.

I've made a short video tutorial to help demonstrate the technique. Check out the video above, or the photo tutorial below!

I'm going to demonstrate on the wrong side of the work so you can see what is going on. I have already purled across the dark pink, which is the color we are stopping.

Before taking the first stitch of the light pink, which is the color we are starting, I'm going to twist the dark pink over the light pink.

 Then I make the first stitch.

As you can see, the first stitch of the light pink, has captured the working end of the dark pink, locking the two colors together. Now I can continue working the light pink, when I come back to the dark pink on the right side of the work, I do just the same thing.

A few tips:
- You can also use this technique when the color change slants to the right. When it slants to the left, there is no need to twist, just drop the yarn and go on with the next color.
- Always do the twisting on the wrong side of the work. If you are working a stitch pattern where the working yarn is on the right side of the work, move it to the back to execute the color change. As you can see in the last photo, the twist creates a vertical line of stitching, which may be unsightly on the right side of the work.
- Be sure to pull the first stitch of the new color firm. Loose stitches create a ladder effect along the color change.
-Twisting the yarn together causes the working yarn of the two colors to twist. Take a break every few rows, and untwist your working yarn.

This skill is used in the SweetKM pattern:

Shape Shifter Scarf

Knit Button Loop Video

You can easily add a buttonhole to any finished knit. This video describes how to attach a button loop along the edge of a garment using the buttonhole stitch. It's a great technique because the alignment and spacing can be determined after you are sure the garment fits.  These buttonholes can be added to the edges of any finished knit. 

I love to use this technique for baby sweaters like the Shawl Collar Baby Coat (pattern here), or as mitten loops on the Simple Ribbed Mittens (pattern here) so I can string the mittens through the coat sleeves.

Check out the SweetKM youtube channel for more knitting video tutorials.

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This skill can be used in these SweetKM patterns:

How-to Block a Knit Item (Without a Blocking Mat)

There is nothing worse than shlubby looking knits. All that shlubbiness can be prevented with a little water, some straight pins and patience. Above are two pixie bonnets. The one on the right is just off the needles and super shlubby. The one on the left has been crisply blocked and is ready for finishing. 

You can buy fancy blocking mats at most any yarn store. I would love to have one (are you listening Santa?) but am way to cheap to buy one. Honestly, I don't see the need for special equipment. For smaller items, I line my ironing board with a trash bag (glamorous, I know). For larger items, I use that same trash bag on my cardboard, fold out, cutting board. The plastic keeps the moisture from wicking through to the absorbent support surface. The main advantage to using the cutting board in my small work space, is that I can pin down the garment at the kitchen table then prop the board up against the wall, or lay it on a bed, out of the way, to dry.

For pixie bonnets, the ironing board does the trick. Cut a trash bag along one long side and the short side, leaving the other long side attached. Open the plastic and lay it flat on the ironing board.

Using cold water, soak the knit garment. Gently squeeze out any excess water, leaving the garment damp.

Lay the garment flat on the plastic lined ironing board. Flatten out the perimeter of the garment, use straight pins to hold the shape. 

Make extra sure to flatten any edges that are prone to rolling.

At this point, finished dimensions come in handy. Shaping the garment to the finished dimensions ensures the item is true to size and a good fit. For the pixie bonnet I know the finished dimension from the cast one edge to the first decreasing row.

At any time of year, blocking is a waiting game. For the in between seasons when its not really hot, but the heat isn't on yet, I use a fan to speed along the process. Any fan will do, position it a few feet away from the blocking board so the air is blowing across the garment. In hot weather, blocked knits will dry in a few hours. In the spring and fall, it can take a whole day, even with a fan. Be patient, it is time well spent.

At knit's end.

Did you read the Purl Bee this week? You must, you must. I have made enough pixie bonnets to be completely confident in the longevity of my finished ends. Sweaters, are far more complicated. I generally end on an edge so I can weave into the finished seam rather than the body of the garment. Its always a good idea to double back on the finishing to prevent the natural stretch of the knit from working a long straight woven in yarn out. Sometimes you have to choice but to end in the middle of a row. This week's Purl Bee very clearly illustrates how to weave in all those loose ends.